Building with Metricon

Renman · May 23, 2018 11:19 pm

stoff17

Renman

stoff17

[quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"]Cool LEDs vs Warm LEDs Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅

For me. Cool wins hands down

If you are in the warm area on it's own its looks really white.

Like this. Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅

Yeah it’s so deceiving, I like the color in the last pic. Doesn’t look yellow at all. Looks great

I believe there is another option, middle ground called natural white. More of a white light and not blue with some cool whites, some cool whites give that real cold feeling but I can’t do warm yellow anymore.

My brother being a electrician suggested natural white. I love it and in house it still gives some warmth and not office like. The downlights we are getting though have the 3 options in one. So once in we will look at what’s best

[/quote]I am not a fan on warm halogen downlights in our current house, so we were concerned with going to with Warm LEDs in this house.

So far we have been very happy with the colour temp in this house so far.

Are they downlights are M? They only had Lumi Cool or Warm LEDs when we did our selections.

[/quote]
Yeah maybe that’s why I don’t like warm. We had halogen in our previous house

LED’s are very different I know, that’s why we are going with the 3 in 1 to get it absolutely right.

No downlights are not through m. I requested and M allowed us to use my brother to do all electrical as he has his own business. We were very lucky as it would cost us probably 3x for everything

[/quote]Wow how did you get them to do that with your brother?

I thought they tender out each work and the cheapest from their list of contractors wins.

[/quote]
Yeah very early on before we signed anything. Pretty much just asked if this could happen and it might be a deal breaker for us if it can’t happen, but never really got stamped out by m.
Very quickly they agreed without any fuss. We were stoked with this as whether they said yes or no, we were going with them. ( not that they knew )haha. So bit of sweet talk got us the best of both worlds

[/quote]Well done guys.

We had and continued to have issues with our electrical with M.

[/quote]
Oh really, that’s not great
We are very happy with the outcome but do believe they got there money back with the outrageous pricing for some upgrades. But all in all we can’t complain

[/quote]Was it cheaper to go with your brother than M?

[/quote]
Haven’t got exact figures, but when you’re getting all parts at cost wholesale price and labor at $40 a hour. We would kill m in pricing.

Couldn’t imagine the pricing with Saturn series from m. USB points/ power points /data /antenna/ Intercoms/ garden lighting/ outdoor lighting/ fans /3 phase upgrade etc. I know downlights through m are about 120 a downlight, which is ridiculous. We need 135-140, that’s a huge sum for just lighting.

So that’s why we can go all out now and not skimp out on things. My brother is doing us a huge favor

[/quote]Good move guys! We were charged $650 for a 50amp power provision for the induction cooktop.

[/quote]
Yeah that’s a big win for us, it’s horrific with some of the costing through m, some necessities and also we want luxuries so we run with it.
We paid 18k for 3m ceilings. 8k for 2.7 upstairs. 19k for stairs just to name a few but as I said, when you just have to have it because we want our homes finished well with luxuries. Hence why your home looks so nice and high end. It is what it is.

[/quote]How did the whole invoicing and contract side of things work? Did you have to pay M or who pays who?

emmyawards · May 24, 2018 3:51 am

Racheld13

Hi Guys,

Hoping somebody could help clarify a few things we are starting to notice as we reach the final stages of construction (note we are first time home builders and starting to feel a little uneasy with the level of service we received from Metricon).

- Front Door. We were always under the impression the front facade as noted by our CS that it would not have infill sheets (but bricked instead) but looking back to the contract it notes Portico Beam. Can anybody shed any light of what this appears to be?

Aside from the above, how was everybody's CS?

We are building in NSW and changed CS prior to construction and also site managers during construction. Therefore any response would be great to hear.

In VIC it’s normal to have a slab site manager and then your actual site manager for the rest of the build.

stoff17 · May 24, 2018 6:44 am

Renman

stoff17

Renman

[quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"]Cool LEDs vs Warm LEDs Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅

For me. Cool wins hands down

If you are in the warm area on it's own its looks really white.

Like this. Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅

Yeah it’s so deceiving, I like the color in the last pic. Doesn’t look yellow at all. Looks great

I believe there is another option, middle ground called natural white. More of a white light and not blue with some cool whites, some cool whites give that real cold feeling but I can’t do warm yellow anymore.

My brother being a electrician suggested natural white. I love it and in house it still gives some warmth and not office like. The downlights we are getting though have the 3 options in one. So once in we will look at what’s best

[/quote]I am not a fan on warm halogen downlights in our current house, so we were concerned with going to with Warm LEDs in this house.

So far we have been very happy with the colour temp in this house so far.

Are they downlights are M? They only had Lumi Cool or Warm LEDs when we did our selections.

[/quote]
Yeah maybe that’s why I don’t like warm. We had halogen in our previous house

LED’s are very different I know, that’s why we are going with the 3 in 1 to get it absolutely right.

No downlights are not through m. I requested and M allowed us to use my brother to do all electrical as he has his own business. We were very lucky as it would cost us probably 3x for everything

[/quote]Wow how did you get them to do that with your brother?

I thought they tender out each work and the cheapest from their list of contractors wins.

[/quote]
Yeah very early on before we signed anything. Pretty much just asked if this could happen and it might be a deal breaker for us if it can’t happen, but never really got stamped out by m.
Very quickly they agreed without any fuss. We were stoked with this as whether they said yes or no, we were going with them. ( not that they knew )haha. So bit of sweet talk got us the best of both worlds

[/quote]Well done guys.

We had and continued to have issues with our electrical with M.

[/quote]
Oh really, that’s not great
We are very happy with the outcome but do believe they got there money back with the outrageous pricing for some upgrades. But all in all we can’t complain

[/quote]Was it cheaper to go with your brother than M?

[/quote]
Haven’t got exact figures, but when you’re getting all parts at cost wholesale price and labor at $40 a hour. We would kill m in pricing.

Couldn’t imagine the pricing with Saturn series from m. USB points/ power points /data /antenna/ Intercoms/ garden lighting/ outdoor lighting/ fans /3 phase upgrade etc. I know downlights through m are about 120 a downlight, which is ridiculous. We need 135-140, that’s a huge sum for just lighting.

So that’s why we can go all out now and not skimp out on things. My brother is doing us a huge favor

[/quote]Good move guys! We were charged $650 for a 50amp power provision for the induction cooktop.

[/quote]
Yeah that’s a big win for us, it’s horrific with some of the costing through m, some necessities and also we want luxuries so we run with it.
We paid 18k for 3m ceilings. 8k for 2.7 upstairs. 19k for stairs just to name a few but as I said, when you just have to have it because we want our homes finished well with luxuries. Hence why your home looks so nice and high end. It is what it is.

[/quote]How did the whole invoicing and contract side of things work? Did you have to pay M or who pays who?

[/quote]
My brother had to do a m induction so all work is still covered under m. Have white card/insurances etc. all business stuff he has anyway.

Also he can now do other work for m if they wish to use him. (Sub contracting) and price is right for my brother to accept

They gave me a credit of base electrical and now all electrical invoicing is between my brother and me. SS liaises with my brother when he wants him on site. Mains/first fix etc but all payments are between brother and I on this job

excited_builders · May 24, 2018 7:39 am

My SM just msgd us that today they will set the site ready for the pre pour. And tomorrow is the slab pour. Can it possibly be that fast? We have to organise our inspector to go there either later today or early tomorrow morning. Has anyone faced this? What has been the notice n how long does setting up for pre pour take?

excited_builders · May 24, 2018 7:40 am

stoff17

Renman

stoff17

[quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"]Cool LEDs vs Warm LEDs Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅

For me. Cool wins hands down

If you are in the warm area on it's own its looks really white.

Like this. Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅

Yeah it’s so deceiving, I like the color in the last pic. Doesn’t look yellow at all. Looks great

I believe there is another option, middle ground called natural white. More of a white light and not blue with some cool whites, some cool whites give that real cold feeling but I can’t do warm yellow anymore.

My brother being a electrician suggested natural white. I love it and in house it still gives some warmth and not office like. The downlights we are getting though have the 3 options in one. So once in we will look at what’s best

[/quote]I am not a fan on warm halogen downlights in our current house, so we were concerned with going to with Warm LEDs in this house.

So far we have been very happy with the colour temp in this house so far.

Are they downlights are M? They only had Lumi Cool or Warm LEDs when we did our selections.

[/quote]
Yeah maybe that’s why I don’t like warm. We had halogen in our previous house

LED’s are very different I know, that’s why we are going with the 3 in 1 to get it absolutely right.

No downlights are not through m. I requested and M allowed us to use my brother to do all electrical as he has his own business. We were very lucky as it would cost us probably 3x for everything

[/quote]Wow how did you get them to do that with your brother?

I thought they tender out each work and the cheapest from their list of contractors wins.

[/quote]
Yeah very early on before we signed anything. Pretty much just asked if this could happen and it might be a deal breaker for us if it can’t happen, but never really got stamped out by m.
Very quickly they agreed without any fuss. We were stoked with this as whether they said yes or no, we were going with them. ( not that they knew )haha. So bit of sweet talk got us the best of both worlds

[/quote]Well done guys.

We had and continued to have issues with our electrical with M.

[/quote]
Oh really, that’s not great
We are very happy with the outcome but do believe they got there money back with the outrageous pricing for some upgrades. But all in all we can’t complain

[/quote]Was it cheaper to go with your brother than M?

[/quote]
Haven’t got exact figures, but when you’re getting all parts at cost wholesale price and labor at $40 a hour. We would kill m in pricing.

Couldn’t imagine the pricing with Saturn series from m. USB points/ power points /data /antenna/ Intercoms/ garden lighting/ outdoor lighting/ fans /3 phase upgrade etc. I know downlights through m are about 120 a downlight, which is ridiculous. We need 135-140, that’s a huge sum for just lighting.

So that’s why we can go all out now and not skimp out on things. My brother is doing us a huge favor

[/quote]Good move guys! We were charged $650 for a 50amp power provision for the induction cooktop.

[/quote]
Yeah that’s a big win for us, it’s horrific with some of the costing through m, some necessities and also we want luxuries so we run with it.
We paid 18k for 3m ceilings. 8k for 2.7 upstairs. 19k for stairs just to name a few but as I said, when you just have to have it because we want our homes finished well with luxuries. Hence why your home looks so nice and high end. It is what it is.

[/quote]How did the whole invoicing and contract side of things work? Did you have to pay M or who pays who?

[/quote]
My brother had to do a m induction so all work is still covered under m. Have white card/insurances etc. all business stuff he has anyway.

Also he can now do other work for m if they wish to use him. (Sub contracting) and price is right for my brother to accept

They gave me a credit of base electrical and now all electrical invoicing is between my brother and me. SS liaises with my brother when he wants him on site. Mains/first fix etc but all payments are between brother and I on this job

[/quote]Thats a big win ....really cool. I know downlights were a lot through M.

Doulton777 · May 24, 2018 8:55 am

stoff17

Renman

stoff17

[quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"]Cool LEDs vs Warm LEDs Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅

For me. Cool wins hands down

If you are in the warm area on it's own its looks really white.

Like this. Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅

Yeah it’s so deceiving, I like the color in the last pic. Doesn’t look yellow at all. Looks great

I believe there is another option, middle ground called natural white. More of a white light and not blue with some cool whites, some cool whites give that real cold feeling but I can’t do warm yellow anymore.

My brother being a electrician suggested natural white. I love it and in house it still gives some warmth and not office like. The downlights we are getting though have the 3 options in one. So once in we will look at what’s best

[/quote]I am not a fan on warm halogen downlights in our current house, so we were concerned with going to with Warm LEDs in this house.

So far we have been very happy with the colour temp in this house so far.

Are they downlights are M? They only had Lumi Cool or Warm LEDs when we did our selections.

[/quote]
Yeah maybe that’s why I don’t like warm. We had halogen in our previous house

LED’s are very different I know, that’s why we are going with the 3 in 1 to get it absolutely right.

No downlights are not through m. I requested and M allowed us to use my brother to do all electrical as he has his own business. We were very lucky as it would cost us probably 3x for everything

[/quote]Wow how did you get them to do that with your brother?

I thought they tender out each work and the cheapest from their list of contractors wins.

[/quote]
Yeah very early on before we signed anything. Pretty much just asked if this could happen and it might be a deal breaker for us if it can’t happen, but never really got stamped out by m.
Very quickly they agreed without any fuss. We were stoked with this as whether they said yes or no, we were going with them. ( not that they knew )haha. So bit of sweet talk got us the best of both worlds

[/quote]Well done guys.

We had and continued to have issues with our electrical with M.

[/quote]
Oh really, that’s not great
We are very happy with the outcome but do believe they got there money back with the outrageous pricing for some upgrades. But all in all we can’t complain

[/quote]Was it cheaper to go with your brother than M?

[/quote]
Haven’t got exact figures, but when you’re getting all parts at cost wholesale price and labor at $40 a hour. We would kill m in pricing.

Couldn’t imagine the pricing with Saturn series from m. USB points/ power points /data /antenna/ Intercoms/ garden lighting/ outdoor lighting/ fans /3 phase upgrade etc. I know downlights through m are about 120 a downlight, which is ridiculous. We need 135-140, that’s a huge sum for just lighting.

So that’s why we can go all out now and not skimp out on things. My brother is doing us a huge favor

[/quote]Good move guys! We were charged $650 for a 50amp power provision for the induction cooktop.

[/quote]
Yeah that’s a big win for us, it’s horrific with some of the costing through m, some necessities and also we want luxuries so we run with it.
We paid 18k for 3m ceilings. 8k for 2.7 upstairs. 19k for stairs just to name a few but as I said, when you just have to have it because we want our homes finished well with luxuries. Hence why your home looks so nice and high end. It is what it is.

[/quote]How did the whole invoicing and contract side of things work? Did you have to pay M or who pays who?

[/quote]
My brother had to do a m induction so all work is still covered under m. Have white card/insurances etc. all business stuff he has anyway.

Also he can now do other work for m if they wish to use him. (Sub contracting) and price is right for my brother to accept

They gave me a credit of base electrical and now all electrical invoicing is between my brother and me. SS liaises with my brother when he wants him on site. Mains/first fix etc but all payments are between brother and I on this job

[/quote]

You got it made. I would have loved to have had that with a family member. Then I could have spent more on upgrades

.

viewtopic.php?t=86597

stoff17 · May 24, 2018 9:16 am

Doulton777

stoff17

Renman

[quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"]Cool LEDs vs Warm LEDs Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅

For me. Cool wins hands down

If you are in the warm area on it's own its looks really white.

Like this. Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅

Yeah it’s so deceiving, I like the color in the last pic. Doesn’t look yellow at all. Looks great

I believe there is another option, middle ground called natural white. More of a white light and not blue with some cool whites, some cool whites give that real cold feeling but I can’t do warm yellow anymore.

My brother being a electrician suggested natural white. I love it and in house it still gives some warmth and not office like. The downlights we are getting though have the 3 options in one. So once in we will look at what’s best

[/quote]I am not a fan on warm halogen downlights in our current house, so we were concerned with going to with Warm LEDs in this house.

So far we have been very happy with the colour temp in this house so far.

Are they downlights are M? They only had Lumi Cool or Warm LEDs when we did our selections.

[/quote]
Yeah maybe that’s why I don’t like warm. We had halogen in our previous house

LED’s are very different I know, that’s why we are going with the 3 in 1 to get it absolutely right.

No downlights are not through m. I requested and M allowed us to use my brother to do all electrical as he has his own business. We were very lucky as it would cost us probably 3x for everything

[/quote]Wow how did you get them to do that with your brother?

I thought they tender out each work and the cheapest from their list of contractors wins.

[/quote]
Yeah very early on before we signed anything. Pretty much just asked if this could happen and it might be a deal breaker for us if it can’t happen, but never really got stamped out by m.
Very quickly they agreed without any fuss. We were stoked with this as whether they said yes or no, we were going with them. ( not that they knew )haha. So bit of sweet talk got us the best of both worlds

[/quote]Well done guys.

We had and continued to have issues with our electrical with M.

[/quote]
Oh really, that’s not great
We are very happy with the outcome but do believe they got there money back with the outrageous pricing for some upgrades. But all in all we can’t complain

[/quote]Was it cheaper to go with your brother than M?

[/quote]
Haven’t got exact figures, but when you’re getting all parts at cost wholesale price and labor at $40 a hour. We would kill m in pricing.

Couldn’t imagine the pricing with Saturn series from m. USB points/ power points /data /antenna/ Intercoms/ garden lighting/ outdoor lighting/ fans /3 phase upgrade etc. I know downlights through m are about 120 a downlight, which is ridiculous. We need 135-140, that’s a huge sum for just lighting.

So that’s why we can go all out now and not skimp out on things. My brother is doing us a huge favor

[/quote]Good move guys! We were charged $650 for a 50amp power provision for the induction cooktop.

[/quote]
Yeah that’s a big win for us, it’s horrific with some of the costing through m, some necessities and also we want luxuries so we run with it.
We paid 18k for 3m ceilings. 8k for 2.7 upstairs. 19k for stairs just to name a few but as I said, when you just have to have it because we want our homes finished well with luxuries. Hence why your home looks so nice and high end. It is what it is.

[/quote]How did the whole invoicing and contract side of things work? Did you have to pay M or who pays who?

[/quote]
My brother had to do a m induction so all work is still covered under m. Have white card/insurances etc. all business stuff he has anyway.

Also he can now do other work for m if they wish to use him. (Sub contracting) and price is right for my brother to accept

They gave me a credit of base electrical and now all electrical invoicing is between my brother and me. SS liaises with my brother when he wants him on site. Mains/first fix etc but all payments are between brother and I on this job

[/quote]

You got it made. I would have loved to have had that with a family member. Then I could have spent more on upgrades

.

viewtopic.php?t=86597[/quote]
Hahaha yep that’s what we are doing, not sure it’s a win but at least we get all the goodies for cheap

blackcat20 · May 24, 2018 9:32 am

excited_builders

My SM just msgd us that today they will set the site ready for the pre pour. And tomorrow is the slab pour. Can it possibly be that fast? We have to organise our inspector to go there either later today or early tomorrow morning. Has anyone faced this? What has been the notice n how long does setting up for pre pour take?

It's usually pretty quick. We were told for a pre-pour inspection had to be done the afternoon they boxed up the slab a it would be poured the next morning.

Doulton777 · May 24, 2018 9:35 am

stoff17

Doulton777

stoff17

[quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"][quote="stoff17"][quote="Renman"]Cool LEDs vs Warm LEDs Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅

For me. Cool wins hands down

If you are in the warm area on it's own its looks really white.

Like this. Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅

Yeah it’s so deceiving, I like the color in the last pic. Doesn’t look yellow at all. Looks great

I believe there is another option, middle ground called natural white. More of a white light and not blue with some cool whites, some cool whites give that real cold feeling but I can’t do warm yellow anymore.

My brother being a electrician suggested natural white. I love it and in house it still gives some warmth and not office like. The downlights we are getting though have the 3 options in one. So once in we will look at what’s best

[/quote]I am not a fan on warm halogen downlights in our current house, so we were concerned with going to with Warm LEDs in this house.

So far we have been very happy with the colour temp in this house so far.

Are they downlights are M? They only had Lumi Cool or Warm LEDs when we did our selections.

[/quote]
Yeah maybe that’s why I don’t like warm. We had halogen in our previous house

LED’s are very different I know, that’s why we are going with the 3 in 1 to get it absolutely right.

No downlights are not through m. I requested and M allowed us to use my brother to do all electrical as he has his own business. We were very lucky as it would cost us probably 3x for everything

[/quote]Wow how did you get them to do that with your brother?

I thought they tender out each work and the cheapest from their list of contractors wins.

[/quote]
Yeah very early on before we signed anything. Pretty much just asked if this could happen and it might be a deal breaker for us if it can’t happen, but never really got stamped out by m.
Very quickly they agreed without any fuss. We were stoked with this as whether they said yes or no, we were going with them. ( not that they knew )haha. So bit of sweet talk got us the best of both worlds

[/quote]Well done guys.

We had and continued to have issues with our electrical with M.

[/quote]
Oh really, that’s not great
We are very happy with the outcome but do believe they got there money back with the outrageous pricing for some upgrades. But all in all we can’t complain

[/quote]Was it cheaper to go with your brother than M?

[/quote]
Haven’t got exact figures, but when you’re getting all parts at cost wholesale price and labor at $40 a hour. We would kill m in pricing.

Couldn’t imagine the pricing with Saturn series from m. USB points/ power points /data /antenna/ Intercoms/ garden lighting/ outdoor lighting/ fans /3 phase upgrade etc. I know downlights through m are about 120 a downlight, which is ridiculous. We need 135-140, that’s a huge sum for just lighting.

So that’s why we can go all out now and not skimp out on things. My brother is doing us a huge favor

[/quote]Good move guys! We were charged $650 for a 50amp power provision for the induction cooktop.

[/quote]
Yeah that’s a big win for us, it’s horrific with some of the costing through m, some necessities and also we want luxuries so we run with it.
We paid 18k for 3m ceilings. 8k for 2.7 upstairs. 19k for stairs just to name a few but as I said, when you just have to have it because we want our homes finished well with luxuries. Hence why your home looks so nice and high end. It is what it is.

[/quote]How did the whole invoicing and contract side of things work? Did you have to pay M or who pays who?

[/quote]
My brother had to do a m induction so all work is still covered under m. Have white card/insurances etc. all business stuff he has anyway.

Also he can now do other work for m if they wish to use him. (Sub contracting) and price is right for my brother to accept

They gave me a credit of base electrical and now all electrical invoicing is between my brother and me. SS liaises with my brother when he wants him on site. Mains/first fix etc but all payments are between brother and I on this job

[/quote]

You got it made. I would have loved to have had that with a family member. Then I could have spent more on upgrades

.

viewtopic.php?t=86597[/quote]
Hahaha yep that’s what we are doing, not sure it’s a win but at least we get all the goodies for cheap

[/quote]

Hahahahaha you got it made bro

🤛

viewtopic.php?t=86597

excited_builders · May 24, 2018 5:42 pm

blackcat20

excited_builders

My SM just msgd us that today they will set the site ready for the pre pour. And tomorrow is the slab pour. Can it possibly be that fast? We have to organise our inspector to go there either later today or early tomorrow morning. Has anyone faced this? What has been the notice n how long does setting up for pre pour take?

It's usually pretty quick. We were told for a pre-pour inspection had to be done the afternoon they boxed up the slab a it would be poured the next morning.

Thanks blackcat.... they pretty much took all of today to do this and slab pour is at 6am tomorrow. Hopefully my pics get uploaded this time! Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅

sandymeo · May 28, 2018 3:04 am

Hi, Just wondering what the drafting design fee from. M might be. We are making some major changes.

Renman · May 28, 2018 6:41 am

sandymeo

Hi, Just wondering what the drafting design fee from. M might be. We are making some major changes.

It should be for free. Apart of doing business and they recoup the cost back within the contract.
What changes are you doing?

shokel1975 · May 28, 2018 10:03 am

sandymeo

Hi, Just wondering what the drafting design fee from. M might be. We are making some major changes.

Your changes should be free, if done early enough in the process. The main hurdle will be, if the changes are too major, M will just say 'No, we can't do it'. Good luck!

Doulton777 · May 28, 2018 6:19 pm

We payed $4000 for ours. But we had major changes as well. It’s m biggest structural changers they ever had in a home. I’m surprised they did so much. Other builders wouldn’t touch it.

viewtopic.php?t=86597

excited_builders · May 29, 2018 6:39 pm

We were shocked when hubby drove by this evening....slab was poured on Friday....and.some frames are up today.

Hope this wont cause any issues....how long does a slab have "to dry" ?

We have got our slab invoice yday. Have sent it to my broker and bank will now order an inspection before they can pay. Cant believe the payment terms r 7 days from Invoice....did anyone manage to oay the slab one within this period?

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blackcat20 · May 29, 2018 6:43 pm

excited_builders

We were shocked when hubby drove by this evening....slab was poured on Friday....and.some frames are up today.

Hope this wont cause any issues....how long does a slab have "to dry" ?

We have got our slab invoice yday. Have sent it to my broker and bank will now order an inspection before they can pay. Cant believe the payment terms r 7 days from Invoice....did anyone manage to oay the slab one within this period?

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We were invoiced Thursday and arranged payment yesterday though it hasn't gone through yet. Our frames haven't started yet either.

stoff17 · May 29, 2018 6:56 pm

When we had slab invoice. Yes 7 days due but we took about 3 weeks from invoice to pay. The bank said first and last payments always take more time. No fees, I think metricon know it doesn’t happen so quick on first

I wouldn’t be too concerned with the frames going up, they put hardeners in these days which excels the curing enough to bolt frames too, but as we all know, actual curing takes many years.
That would of been a shock but so exciting at the same time.

Drew01 · May 29, 2018 6:58 pm

From slab pour to top frame start was about 10 days for us, but our slab is double thickness...

We paid our first two invoices on about Day 4-5... We don't like being bad debtors, and unless something is wrong will continue to pay the invoices within their terms so the build isn't delayed. We're also "cash builders" so don't need the bank to get involved aside from transferring the funds out of our mortgage

blackcat20 · May 29, 2018 7:01 pm

Drew01

From slab pour to top frame start was about 10 days for us, but our slab is double thickness...

We paid our first two invoices on about Day 4-5... We don't like being bad debtors, and unless something is wrong will continue to pay the invoices within their terms so the build isn't delayed. We're also "cash builders" so don't need the bank to get involved aside from transferring the funds out of our mortgage

Same with us, we have no reason to withhold payment.

zooch84 · May 29, 2018 7:04 pm

excited_builders

We were shocked when hubby drove by this evening....slab was poured on Friday....and.some frames are up today.

Hope this wont cause any issues....how long does a slab have "to dry" ?

We have got our slab invoice yday. Have sent it to my broker and bank will now order an inspection before they can pay. Cant believe the payment terms r 7 days from Invoice....did anyone manage to oay the slab one within this period?

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Really you can get away with 48 hours now, they have chemicals etc in the mix that makes it go off quicker

Does have the drawback that if it dries too quickly it can crack. When we got ours poured and it initally hardened, I was praying for rain. (keeping it moist prevents cracking generally) Didn't happen though, but in truth our slab has been fine.

I still come from the old school of 7 days for it to cure, but deep down I know it's not a big deal nowadays.