Browse Forums Eco Living Re: yet another rain water setup questions 3Apr 20, 2015 12:16 am 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Re: yet another rain water setup questions 6May 18, 2015 11:34 pm B-Man i dont plan on putting a pressure tank just a pump with the automatic control I really would recomend a pressure tank for all pressure pump installations. Higher cost is offset by loner pump life and lower running costs. See this link for more information http://www.anewhouse.com.au/2013/05/rai ... sure-tank/ The Harder You Try - the Luckier You Get ! Web site http://www.anewhouse.com.au Informative, Amusing, and Opinionated Blog - Over 600 posts on all aspects of building a new house. Re: yet another rain water setup questions 7May 19, 2015 6:00 pm bashworth B-Man i dont plan on putting a pressure tank just a pump with the automatic control I really would recomend a pressure tank for all pressure pump installations. Higher cost is offset by loner pump life and lower running costs. See this link for more information http://www.anewhouse.com.au/2013/05/rai ... sure-tank/ yeah i had been looking into it a bit more and will get one. (will get one for bore pump as stated in the first post) and will get one for rain water. what size should i get? id love a 100L+ but the cost starts to get a bit much Re: yet another rain water setup questions 8May 19, 2015 7:13 pm My questions would be: How many people are living in this house ? Is the bore water potable ? Are you living in the house fulltime ? We have a similar setup, slightly simplified. We have 8 downpipes ( 100mm ) into 2 x 100MM runs to the tanks. Our bore water is fine to drink, but slightly hard, so we have a float valve that only cuts in when we get below ~ 3000 litres. All tanks are interlinked to dilute the bore water when needed. The pump size is 110 litre per minute with about a 1200-1500 head. We currently hold 75000 litres, but will increase that to 125,000 over time. We have shallow granite below the ground, so we have 3 x 25,000 plastic above ground tanks at the moment. Cant dig in underground tanks and I'm not a fan of very large single tanks. We have a charged system, with sediment traps. We don't have any first flush system.The sediment trap is basically an extra bit of 100mm pipe with a removable cap on the end. I can't see how this would add any noticable cost to the job. We don't have any leaf diverters as we don't have any trees within 50 metres or so of the house ( fire hazzard for us ) Pipes between the tanks and to the pumps are all standard sizes supplied with the tanks and pump. The return to the house is 32mm ag pipe. I'm not sure what the 1965 LPM refers to in your question. If your talking about water flow per minute, that means you'd need to have rainfall of just shy of 6mm of rain per minute, filling your tank from empty in 11 minutes ? Sorry if I'm confused on this one. Re: yet another rain water setup questions 9May 19, 2015 8:22 pm snowy stockman My questions would be: How many people are living in this house ? Is the bore water potable ? Are you living in the house fulltime ? 1: 4 bedroom house but only 2 people for the near future 2: apparently the bore water is quite good but has a bit of calcium/lime in it. (view from neighbour) 3: yes. Quote: We have a similar setup, slightly simplified. We have 8 downpipes ( 100mm ) into 2 x 100MM runs to the tanks. Our bore water is fine to drink, but slightly hard, so we have a float valve that only cuts in when we get below ~ 3000 litres. All tanks are interlinked to dilute the bore water when needed. The pump size is 110 litre per minute with about a 1200-1500 head. i only want to use the rain water overflow to fill the bore tank so i dont have to pump as much bore water. the neighbour only has 2 people living in their house and says his rain water tanks are always over flowing and he has 2. So im hoping it will basically be 2 rain water tanks and not have to use the bore. Quote: We currently hold 75000 litres, but will increase that to 125,000 over time. We have shallow granite below the ground, so we have 3 x 25,000 plastic above ground tanks at the moment. Cant dig in underground tanks and I'm not a fan of very large single tanks. We have a charged system, with sediment traps. We don't have any first flush system.The sediment trap is basically an extra bit of 100mm pipe with a removable cap on the end. I can't see how this would add any noticable cost to the job. We don't have any leaf diverters as we don't have any trees within 50 metres or so of the house ( fire hazzard for us ) i will be putting 2 sediment traps in as close to the last outlet as possible. i also dont have any trees 50m from the proposed house so wont be putting leaf diverters in. Quote: Pipes between the tanks and to the pumps are all standard sizes supplied with the tanks and pump. The return to the house is 32mm ag pipe. I'm not sure what the 1965 LPM refers to in your question. If your talking about water flow per minute, that means you'd need to have rainfall of just shy of 6mm of rain per minute, filling your tank from empty in 11 minutes ? Sorry if I'm confused on this one. thats what i assume is the 1:20 Intensity Frequency Duration for 5 minutes for the house catchment area and thats what SaveH2O uses to calculate the amount of downpipes?, the amount and size of pipes running to the tank and how fast the tank needs to overflow? Re: yet another rain water setup questions 10May 19, 2015 10:35 pm B-Man bashworth B-Man i dont plan on putting a pressure tank just a pump with the automatic control I really would recomend a pressure tank for all pressure pump installations. Higher cost is offset by loner pump life and lower running costs. See this link for more information http://www.anewhouse.com.au/2013/05/rai ... sure-tank/ yeah i had been looking into it a bit more and will get one. (will get one for bore pump as stated in the first post) and will get one for rain water. what size should i get? id love a 100L+ but the cost starts to get a bit much Basically you need a tank that will mean that the pump will only start every 3-4 times you use the tap for small amounts of water, Such as cleaning your teeth, filling the kettle, washing your hands, etc. even a small tank with a capacity of around 20L will make a big difference. If you are filling toilets perhaps a 40L might be better. The Harder You Try - the Luckier You Get ! Web site http://www.anewhouse.com.au Informative, Amusing, and Opinionated Blog - Over 600 posts on all aspects of building a new house. Re: yet another rain water setup questions 11May 26, 2015 3:16 am Hi B-Man, Sorry for the delay, I have needed the spare time to answer this in one hit. I have linked 4 threads below that cover a lot of the subject matter that you have referred to. There are other threads in this sub forum that may cover other issues as well. I will answer your post in order as written. viewtopic.php?f=35&t=72564 viewtopic.php?f=35&t=72054 viewtopic.php?f=35&t=69649 The next link is for a 4 tank system at Gympie. When reading this, it must be remembered that there is an excess water harvest during the wet season and the dedicated flush/outdoor tank's use was designed into the system with this in mind. This year, all of the tanks were full at the start of the wet season, allowing the 50 mm flush valves to remain fully open. viewtopic.php?f=35&t=60317 Your house roof is 312 square meters. Your 1:20 ARI is found under the 5% column. (20 x 5 = 100). If you intersect the 5% column with the 5 minute column, you will see 9.0, this signifies that the 5 minute rain intensity that the 1:20 ARI is based on is 9 mm of rain over a five minute duration. This is an average of 1.8 mm of rain per minute for the 5 minutes. Eaves gutter compliance is based on a 1:20 ARI and this figure should be used to determine the minimum flow rates that can be expected during a 1:20 ARI (also called an AEP as per the table). 1:20 ARIs happen more frequently than once every 20 years and higher intensity localised events have also become more frequent. Because storm events are invariably accompanied by wind driven rain, gutter and downpipe compliance factors the roof slope to allow for more rain falling on one side of the roof than the other. For example, a 23 degree sloped roof is subject to a multiplier of 1.21 and if a house roof was rectangular with 100 sq m on both sides, both roof areas would be factored as 121 sq m. Obviously, the roof catchment area would still be 200 sq m but the factored roof areas are used to determine the gutter, downpipe and underground pipe sizes needed to drain the greater volume of wind driven rain that will fall on the roof slope that faces the weather. The house roof area is 312 sq m. 312 x 1.8 = an average of 561.6 litres per minute during a 1:20 ARI but you need a safety margin as well for the above reasons. I generally aim for a safety margin of 50% but most gutters fitted would not cope with this intensity of rain without overflowing. 561.6 x 1.5 (safety margin) = 842.4 litres per minute. There are no regulations regarding this and many other facets of rainwater harvesting, they are simply my own suggestions based on a lot of research, practical experience and seeing numerous problematic systems installed by 'professionals'. For practical reasons, even the base figure of 561.6 litres per minute should be serviced by 2 x 100 mm SN6 DWV pipes. These pipes have an internal diameter of 104 mm and hold 8.5 litres per metre. A velocity of 1 metre per second = 8.5 x 60 = 510 litres per minute. If you play around with the simple Hazen-Williams flow rate calculator that I have linked below, you will see that 50 metres of 104 mm diameter uPVC DWV pipe requires a 450mm head to flow at 1 metre per second. Note that I changed the diameter measure from cm to mm. I also changed the roughness coefficient from 140 to 150 for PVC pipe. http://www.calctool.org/CALC/eng/civil/hazen-williams_g Doing an accurate calculation isn't straight forward because fittings such as elbows have to be included as equivalent pipe lengths plus the smaller downpipes at different distances of horizontal pipe complicate the head calculations but the actual length of wet system pipe should never be used for calculations. Because you have about 1 metre of head to play with, the above is academic anyway. BED LOAD AND SEDIMENT TRAPS Bed load travels much slower than the water in a charged system due to water travelling in boundary layers (streamlines). Water travels fastest through the core. The problem with wet systems is the retention of debris and the resultant debris build up and anaerobic conditions unless the pipes are regularly 'flushed'. Flushing reduces yield and the term "flushing" is a misnomer as pipes are drained rather than flushed. This is due to the limited and quickly diminished available head in the downpipe(s) and riser unless the pipes are on a slope. The recognised minimum flushing velocity required in stormwater pipe is .7 metres per second. If you are using 100 mm SN6 DWV pipe that has an OD of 110 mm and an ID of 104 mm, it will hold 8.5 litres per metre. To achieve the minimum flushing velocity, the water will need to travel at 8.5 X .7 = 5.1 litres per second or 357 litres per minute! This is why crud builds up all along a wet system pipe and having the bed load travel up even a slight slope will further slow the bed load. The wet system riser however is VERTICAL and so even if the required minimum flushing velocity for a horizontal drain pipe is achieved, a lot of crud will not flush to the tank's top meshed inlet. The above is the reason that first flush diverters should never be fitted to the top of a vertical riser! Installing a simple DIY sediment trap between the downpipes and the tank will dramatically improve the water quality. Note the inspection cap; this is to access the trap if ever needed. The sediment trap must be fitted to a non turbulent section of pipe (away from elbows and tees) to allow time for suspended detritus to settle as bed load. A distance of 4-5 metres from the last tee or elbow is ok. The trap's smaller pipe will be DWV, 40 or 50mm is a common size. If you fit other hoses, they must connect to DWV threads but there are a range of poly nipples that can join some different threaded fittings for this type of application. We regularly connect uPVC pressure pipe to DWV pipe by using poly nipples and have never had a problem. Your best downpipe to use is 90 mm uPVC. The plumber will use the fall of the land to determine the drainage. LEAF DIVERTER and LOW RESTRICTION INLET These are preferable but current leaf diverters can be high maintenance and lose yield. I am developing a surface effect filter to use in a leaf diverter of my design. It will be small, have high yield, be low maintenance and most probably have superior 500 micron filtration. The final filter profile is yet to be determined and the diverter will not be available until the end of the year once field trials have been completed. If you have a mosquito proof leaf diverter and a sealed wet system, you should fit a low restriction inlet to the tank within 60 degrees either side of the tank's pump draw valve. Low restriction inlet designs are discussed in the other linked threads. The low restriction inlet has priority flow into the tank because it operates with head pressure that is determined by the height of the water in the tank and not the the height of the vertical riser above the tank. The smaller pipe (usually 40 mm but sometimes 50 mm) eliminates the need for bed load to be flushed up a vertical riser, effectively flushing the wet system every rain event. Less water is also retained in the wet system and the water retained is the last water that falls during the rain event. If you want to wait to see my new leaf diverter, you can still fit a low restriction inlet...just leave the valve closed until the system is mosquito proofed. Having a 500 micron leaf diverter, a sediment trap and a low restriction inlet will deliver good quality water to the tank and eliminate the need to regularly flush the wet system. We will know within 5-6 weeks whether it will be manufactured. Re fitting a check valve to the smaller pipe, this is a good idea...if there is a valve made for the pipe you are using, there is no reason why one could not be fitted. You should also fit a flap valve to the end of the vertical riser pipe above the tank to prevent vermin and mosquito access. TankVac The TankVac uses a 900 mm length of vertical overflow pipe to generate the syphonic discharge, you cannot use it to overflow into an adjacent tank. A shared overflow pipe at the top of two tanks should be supplemented by a balance line fitted at the bottom of both tanks if you have a settling tank system. PUMP Blue Stripe poly pipe is usually used. Just be aware that Blue Stripe is measured as an outside diameter...the 25 mm Blue Stripe has an internal diameter of about 20 mm. For even a medium distance run between the tank and pump, this size is commonly used and suitable. For a long run between the pump and the house, I suggest increasing the pipe size to minimise friction loss. Something to remember is that doubling a pipes (true) internal diameter increases the volume x4 but if the same head is used, the flow rate increases by about x6. I seriously suggest that you get a good variable speed pump, have a look at the Grundfos range. Variable speed pumps are discussed in the 101 thread that I linked. Their main benefit is that they deliver a constant pressure, great for when you are having a shower. They use a small pressure tank to supply pressurised water at the start up while the pump spools up. Energy is saved because they don't have the initial high energy start up demand that other pumps have plus they only run at the required speed whereas other pumps run flat out even when delivering water to high use low flow fixtures, toilet cisterns for example. A pump running slower saves a lot of energy. If you use a pump and pressure tank, you will need a manual pressure controller unless you can find an electronic one that is preset to the pump's required cut in - cut out pressure range. Note that manual pressure controllers DO NOT detect no water supply, i.e., there is no run dry protection. The tank must also be set to a high cut in - cut out pressure to minimise pressure variations. FIRST FLUSH Unless you have rats and possums polluting your roof (carriers of Giardia And Cryptosporidium), I would not suggest having first flush diverters unless you can collect the diverted water because the yield loss from these things can be devastating. If you can have a settling tank system plus good leaf diverters, sediment traps, low restriction inlets to supplement the vertical risers and a floating outlet hose to supply the pump, you will harvest and supply good quality water. Just don't fit the tank's outlet that supplies the pump to the very bottom of the tank, this is a bad but common mistake but if you use a floating outlet hose, it makes no difference. Re floating outlet, you can get one made up for about $55-60. Make sure that the open end is 200 mm below the surface to avoid drawing a free surface vortex. Let me know if I missed anything. 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Re: yet another rain water setup questions 14May 27, 2015 9:20 pm Question Time i have read you suggest pond hose and John looks like hes uses fire hose? but that appears to kink with tank pressure. do you have a link to the type of pond house you talk about? and would it be best to use a small section for all connections coming off the tank? ie. outlet to pump, balance line, low restriction inlet? or is the 40mm poly flexible enough? the plan for the bore tank (22000L) is sort of explained in the picture above. i will have 5000L minimum allocated for CFS usage that is the constant water height. i will then have a float setup to fill the tank with 10000L any time it gets to 5000L and stop at 15000L what i would like to do is any overflow from the rain water tank goes into the bore tank so i dont need to keep pumping water from the bore. my idea is both tanks would have a normal overflow but have a slightly lower overflow from the rainwater tank to the bore tank as to fill the bore tank when the rainwater gets full. this would also allow extra overflow capacity if ever needed. how do you suggest having it set so any overflow (with good quality water) goes into the Bore tank before overflowing out the tank? if i have a low restriction inlet should have 1 for each 100mm DWV pipe or can they be joined together? also in the picture is the Future tank (thats if i require it dependant on rain and water usage) IF i do require it is there a difference between placing balance pipes in the side of the tank (like johns setup) or connecting the 2 outlets from the tank together with the feed to the pump? (like in the picture)? would i then make one tank a settling tank. is the point of a settling tank where it is closed off from the other tank and only opened when it has settled eg. a few days after a heavy rain to balance the water level. the point of waiting is to send good clean water to the other tank without the sediment suspended in the water? so one would need to remember to open and close these otherwise it could overflow while your other tank is near empty... or have left it open and get the dirty water. what happens if the rain is too heavy and you are going to overflow do you waste it or open it to collect it in the other tank? is there a way to do this without having to open/close them all the time? Re: yet another rain water setup questions 15Jun 05, 2015 2:48 am Apologies again for the late reply. I am behind with my own work at the moment but I am making inroads and should be able to take a bit more time out from now on. The hose that John used was a rigid type that I caution against using. The hose did flex but it was caused by the Camel brand tanks distorting on the bottom wall when they filled. Camel Tanks passed it off as a design feature!!!, not how I would describe it. You can see a photo and John's comments in the post that I have linked below. viewtopic.php?p=1146540#p1146540 The hose that I recommend is the Clearpond brand Pond Flex. This is a black corrugated (on the outside only) flexible hose but the hose becomes more rigid in sizes larger than 32mm. 25mm metric Blue Stripe poly pipe is commonly used to connect the tank to the pump but this hose is measured as an outside diameter, the inside diameter is nearer 20mm. This size hose will result in a lot of friction loss if the pump is drawing and/or pumping water over a longer distance. If this applies, upsizing to a 32mm hose would be beneficial. The 32 mm Pond Flex is a nice size for a low balance line. If you also fit a high balance line, use a flexible fitting, particularly if you are having poly tanks. Never use a rigid fitting because poly tanks move. The low restriction inlet's size often depends on the maximum amount of water that is delivered to the tank during a major storm event as it also boosts the potential flow rate to the tank by being supplementary to the vertical riser that operates with less head. This will not be a consideration for you though because you have plenty of available head. Its purpose in your system would be to give any fine sediment a low restriction flow path into the tank plus there is the added benefit of having the oxygen rich water aerate the anaerobic zone. It also reduces the amount of water retained in the wet system's pipes between rain events. As a general rule, 40 mm is a nice size to use and the parts are still reasonably priced. Re the rainwater tank overflowing into the bore tank, a single overflow will not match the inflow capacity during heavy rain and this will cause the rainwater tank to over-top. You would probably look at manual intervention as the method of aiding the water tank's overflow and one simple way would be to have a balance line between the rainwater tank and the bore tank that could be opened either prior to or during heavy rain. You would fit a low restriction inlet pipe to each 100mm tee at the bottom of the vertical risers. The two WaterBoys shown in the diagram would act as a balance pipe if both valves were open because both hoses are submerged. It is the best way to have a balance tank system and the valves can be left open because water isn't being transferred between the anaerobic zones. Manually opening a low balance line flow path is most beneficial a few days after rain if the harvesting system is the usual poorly designed wet system. 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Re: yet another rain water setup questions 16Jun 05, 2015 6:21 pm Thanks i appreciate your willingness to help even though quite busy SaveH2O Apologies again for the late reply. I am behind with my own work at the moment but I am making inroads and should be able to take a bit more time out from now on. The hose that I recommend is the Clearpond brand Pond Flex. This is a black corrugated (on the outside only) flexible hose but the hose becomes more rigid in sizes larger than 32mm. thanks will look into this Quote: 25mm metric Blue Stripe poly pipe is commonly used to connect the tank to the pump but this hose is measured as an outside diameter, the inside diameter is nearer 20mm. This size hose will result in a lot of friction loss if the pump is drawing and/or pumping water over a longer distance. If this applies, upsizing to a 32mm hose would be beneficial. i have 32mm at the moment and was thinking of upsizing to 40mm just for the long pipe runs Quote: The 32 mm Pond Flex is a nice size for a low balance line. If you also fit a high balance line, use a flexible fitting, particularly if you are having poly tanks. Never use a rigid fitting because poly tanks move. i wont be able to have a high balance line as its not recommended to drill into the tank above the one flat section on the base Quote: Re the rainwater tank overflowing into the bore tank, a single overflow will not match the inflow capacity during heavy rain and this will cause the rainwater tank to over-top. You would probably look at manual intervention as the method of aiding the water tank's overflow and one simple way would be to have a balance line between the rainwater tank and the bore tank that could be opened either prior to or during heavy rain. my point exactly if i had an overflow for each tank and then added an additional (overflow .ie/very high balance line) from the rain to the bore tank it would assist in extra overflow capacity for the rain tank if required Quote: You would fit a low restriction inlet pipe to each 100mm tee at the bottom of the vertical risers. i did think that but wasnt sure if they could be combined or not. Quote: The two WaterBoys shown in the diagram would act as a balance pipe if both valves were open because both hoses are submerged. It is the best way to have a balance tank system and the valves can be left open because water isn't being transferred between the anaerobic zones. Manually opening a low balance line flow path is most beneficial a few days after rain if the harvesting system is the usual poorly designed wet system. great that would suit me. hopefully i dont need another tank and can use the bore tank as my 2nd rain water tank depending on my usage. if i require another one i know exactly what to do. thanks i think you have answered everything now to fully understand it and get it from paper to planning and put into action house will be ready to start building soon as plan have been submitted to council. Re: yet another rain water setup questions 17Jun 05, 2015 11:31 pm Clearpond Pond Flex hose: Because it is corrugated, it has its own hose clamps. Friction loss: Friction loss is greater at higher flow rates than lower flow rates. 40 mm hose will naturally have less friction loss than a 32 mm hose but a 40 mm hose can move a lot of water and the question then becomes, will it ever be required to? Cisterns, the shower, washing machine and most taps are low flow fixtures whereas the bath, laundry tub and outside taps are higher flow. There are friction loss tables online that show the friction loss per metre for different diameter pipes at different flow rates. Accessing these charts lets you compare the friction loss savings at different flow rates when upsizing pipe sizes. High balance lines: These usually interconnect between the overflow outlets. The lower plain wall section on poly tanks are usually molded with thicker plastic to prevent flex. A couple of other things that you may have already read in other threads. Rainwater is naturally acidic, particularly during thunderstorms. You can neutralise the pH balance by putting crushed limestone chips into a meshed nylon bag or similar and putting it into the tank that the pump draws from. This is particularly advisable if you have copper pipes. Tethering a small buoy to the bag will allow you to retrieve the bag to top it up or further break up the chips already in it. Limestone chips often form a protective coating when submerged for a period of time. Placing an oversized piece of shadecloth over the tank's top meshed inlet makes cleaning the mesh a lot easier plus it prevents sunlight from entering the tank. 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Re: yet another rain water setup questions 18Jun 06, 2015 10:56 am SaveH2O Friction loss: Friction loss is greater at higher flow rates than lower flow rates. 40 mm hose will naturally have less friction loss than a 32 mm hose but a 40 mm hose can move a lot of water and the question then becomes, will it ever be required to? Cisterns, the shower, washing machine and most taps are low flow fixtures whereas the bath, laundry tub and outside taps are higher flow. There are friction loss tables online that show the friction loss per metre for different diameter pipes at different flow rates. Accessing these charts lets you compare the friction loss savings at different flow rates when upsizing pipe sizes. i just thought bigger was better. and if it doesnt cost too much then i will upgrade to it. id like to be able to have 2 showers running at the same time with the washing machine or tap or toilet flush (irregular occurrence but would be nice if it could do that without too much pressure drop.) as currently i cant shower and flush the toilet or shower and washing machine or shower and tap without it being quite noticeable in the shower. ok so the pumps pressure of 1mpa the length of run (about 40m) 3m head from pump to base of house (i guess it should be 3m head at thats where most taps will be at) do i have to work out my flowrate/velocity? then one that is worked out i get a head loss in M but what does that actually mean? ok so looking at this chart http://www.polypipe.com.au/images/Flow% ... 2075mm.pdf also assuming i just use that supplied pump for now how do i read these charts? Quote: High balance lines: These usually interconnect between the overflow outlets. The lower plain wall section on poly tanks are usually molded with thicker plastic to prevent flex. A couple of other things that you may have already read in other threads. Rainwater is naturally acidic, particularly during thunderstorms. You can neutralise the pH balance by putting crushed limestone chips into a meshed nylon bag or similar and putting it into the tank that the pump draws from. This is particularly advisable if you have copper pipes. Tethering a small buoy to the bag will allow you to retrieve the bag to top it up or further break up the chips already in it. Limestone chips often form a protective coating when submerged for a period of time. Placing an oversized piece of shadecloth over the tank's top meshed inlet makes cleaning the mesh a lot easier plus it prevents sunlight from entering the tank. yes have read them thanks, more great ideas Re: yet another rain water setup questions 19Jun 09, 2015 7:07 pm unrelated to the rest of the setup. if i was going to gravity feed from a tank 2m higher than the bore tank is this enough head? and would 40mm rural poly be sufficient? or should i use 50mm its about a 70m run basically the bottom of the tank will be level with the inlet (top) of the other tank Re: yet another rain water setup questions 20Jun 09, 2015 9:53 pm Just run some figures through the flow rate calculator that i linked. Something to remember: It requires 4 times the head to double the flow rate but doubling a pipe's internal diameter increases the volume x 4. If you double the internal diameter and have the same head, you increase the flow rate by about x 6. I should get back to answering your previous post hopefully tomorrow night, sorry for the delay but I am behind with an urgent project and working every available minute. 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Can a plumber put a tap on a rain water tank which is full? Tank is similar to one in photo. Cheers. 0 2087 Hi, does anyone have any experience with using Trex rain escape or EPDM rubber to waterproof a deck so you have dry space underneath. Popular in the US and realize that… 0 3821 |