Browse Forums Lighting + Lighting Design Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 143Jan 07, 2016 9:37 am Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 144Jan 07, 2016 10:02 am Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 149Jan 08, 2016 1:31 pm Owner Building at Jimboomba Woods in Logan City Qld. Blog : http://bandlnewhomebuild.blogspot.com H1 thread : viewtopic.php?f=38&t=68283 . Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 151Jan 08, 2016 11:07 pm 1960sModernistHome canbuild Hi , Thanks for this topic, I have learned quite a lot. Please see the below electrical plan for our double storey new build, appreciate your feedback please. Hi there, sorry, I missed your post. Here are my comments/suggestions after having a look over your plans: 1. You could probably lose the 4 downlights in the dining area, the pendant should be enough. 2. Personally I would use the same colour temperature throughout the whole house. Mixing warm white and cool white might look a bit funny. Personally I would use warm throughout, but if you prefer cool that is ok. Laundry/Garage could be cool white, no worries there. 3. I would use one or two 2x28w T5 fluorescent battens in the garage instead of downlights. I don't think the downlights will provide enough light. 4. I say this to everyone - consider using low glare downlights, particularly through living areas, kitchen etc. It is most likely that your 90 degree downlights have a flat opal diffuser. These are quite high glare. I have talked about glare and provided low glare downlight options in earlier pages of this thread if you wish to read through. 5. Maybe add a light over the sink. Other than that I'd say it's a rather good attempt. What I might suggest is re-doing it with some clean copies, and do three separate sets of plans: 1. Lighting (showing switch locations and switching lines as well) 2. Power 3. TV, audio visual, speaker cabling, phone and data, security alarm etc Putting everything on the one plan makes it a bit busy and doesn't leave much room for the electrician to mark up notes and measurements on the plans. It also helps workflow on site, usually if there are multiple electricians on site they will get one guy to do lights, one guy to do power, another guy or even a different subcontractor to do TV, data, security etc so separate plans help. Make sure you have printed A3 copies to hand over to your electrician as they will use your plans to work from when wiring the house. Thanks 1960sModernistHome , appreciated Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 152Jan 09, 2016 10:12 pm Hi 1960MH I have problem with my led downlighting interfering with my TV reception After I bought my cottage in Tas I replaced 12V halogen bulbs with 5 w LEDs . (Transformers remained) I put it down to a dimmer but since then we isolated it as well as one downlight close to TV but the problem remains. Any ideas? At the same time I bought from the same on line supplier 5 W led's to replace 240 V/ 50W halogens In my Melbourne home and there are no issues. Your expertise will be appreciated. Foremost Building Expert in Australia,assisting with building problems/disputes, building stage inspections,pre-contract review advice for peace of mind 200 blogs http://www.buildingexpert.net.au/blog Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 153Jan 10, 2016 3:35 am The halogen downlight transformers were never designed to run LED. Get proper LEDs and Drivers. 240v LEDs don't have an issue because the correct transformer is built in into the LED. Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 154Jan 10, 2016 7:42 am I think JB is probably on the money here. Your best bet is to put the halogens back in, or replace the whole downlight and transformer with a complete LED downlight kit. Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 155Jan 10, 2016 7:50 am lazandjohn Hi....I quite like the look of the downlights in this display home. It's an upmarket home, no expense spared.... Just wondering if you can tell me what these light are, and what you think of them? thank you! Hi I like them. There are a fair few manufacturers of this type of downlight. Common industry name is a 1, 2 or 3 light slotter. Here are a couple of options: http://lumen-8.com.au/product_categories/downlights/ (there are a few options on this page) http://www.versalux.com.au/products/dow ... enice-box/ Keep in mind they're not cheap. You're probably looking at around $200-$300 each. It's possible that there are cheaper ones around that I don't know about, if you were to ask around at the lower quality mass market lighting stores like Beacon etc. Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 156Jan 10, 2016 8:45 am 1960sMH - Thanks for that info. In your opinion (or any other lighting experts/electricians out here) do you think cheaper lights (say, a version of the 2 light slotter above) are of inferior quality to an expensive version? When I was putting counter top lights above benches in our old house I just bought a few from B&Q (Bunnings) and the electrician said they were fine, as good as a more expensive version. Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 157Jan 10, 2016 9:21 am Put simply, you generally get what you pay for with lighting, as with most things. There are different grades of quality suitable for different purposes, i.e. residential grade, commercial grade, industrial grade, and a spectrum of quality within each grade. The price you pay also depends on where you purchase from. Typically retail stores are significantly more expensive than electrical wholesalers and some online sellers. It does pay to shop around, but just be careful if buying online to buy from a reputable seller and ensure that what you're buying has Australian approval certificates. With all due respect to electricians, in my experience not many of them know much about lighting principles and probably wouldn't know the difference between a cheap fitting and a good one, especially now with LED. To be fair, I used to be an electrician and at that time I wouldn't have known either. It's taken me nearly a decade in engineering and lighting design to learn. Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 158Jan 10, 2016 5:55 pm 1960sModernistHome I think JB is probably on the money here. Your best bet is to put the halogens back in, or replace the whole downlight and transformer with a complete LED downlight kit. Thank you JB1 and 1960MH for the responses. Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 159Jan 10, 2016 6:16 pm I have a question regarding your opinion of lighting on a street facing 6m long 600mm high sandstone looking (Concrete Blocks) retaining wall. What spacing should I be looking at? What height? And would down facing would work or up facing or facing both up and down. Low whattage LED is what I will look for in 12V for outside of course. Any suggested units? Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 160Jan 10, 2016 6:51 pm To allow me to best help you, can you give me an idea of your budget? I know exactly what I would use to do the job, but it may not work with your budget... Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 You should check your detail drawings, it may show downpipe within brick pier. 14 14124 I work with owner, he/she is my man on the ground and I instruct them when to visit the site and take photos and I have other tools in the bag. 4 15284 Ardo That is so funny! I wonder how many people know who Larry Haun is these days. I have a couple of young guys we call Mo 1 & Mo 2 who run a crew of 6 boys and… 9 15538 |