Browse Forums Building Standards; Getting It Right! Re: New house frame issues 161Dec 07, 2014 9:37 pm RedHotMike I take my hat off to you. You've taken the time and effort to respond to many different posts. Thanks again. I must say I'm feeling a bit shaky about my F5 but have no say in the matter. Re: New house frame issues 162Dec 08, 2014 5:00 pm Crazyk RedHotMike I take my hat off to you. You've taken the time and effort to respond to many different posts. Thanks again. I must say I'm feeling a bit shaky about my F5 but have no say in the matter. Haha no probs - it was a rainy day and clearly I didn't have anything better to do . My objection isn't really with the strength of F5 parse, more the twist and bows that come with it. I have never heard of a failure where F5 graded timber was used within it's spec. The problem is how much planing and packing the guys need to do before plaster to get the walls straight. Although MGP10 has it's problems at times, generally it's quite a jump in quality from F5 with another large jump again to MGP12. MGP15 is marginally better again but cost vs gain is just not there and supply of MGP15 is often erratic at best. I used to stock a few packs of it just for the odd critical chord in a truss when we were running out of choices. What would I use in my house??? MGP10 as the best bang for $ option, being specific on which production I would accept. My history is in in senior management of a frame and truss plant for over a decade chomping thru a B-double of framing pine per week + another semi or 2 of other misc timbers. Framing and particularly bracing is my pet peev in the building industry considering how often it's overlooked. Re: New house frame issues 163Dec 16, 2014 4:47 pm One of our structural beams was cut to allow for the 15mm clearance about doors. The beam now has a piece of metal showing. Should I be concerned? Re: New house frame issues 165Dec 16, 2014 5:19 pm hitman How much did they cut off? Pretty sure if the plans (or Australian standard) specify a particular size beam then they can't cut it. 20mm was cut off. Which Australian Standard are you referring to? More info please. Re: New house frame issues 168Dec 16, 2014 7:24 pm tlblhayward One of our structural beams was cut to allow for the 15mm clearance about doors. The beam now has a piece of metal showing. Should I be concerned? How long is the beam, what is it holding up and how much was cut off??? If you send me the architecturals and engineering (including which beam has been cut) I should be able to work it out for you. Ps - the metal looks suspiciously like a nail used to laminate 2 beams together and a chipped saw blade to me :p hitman How much did they cut off? Pretty sure if the plans (or Australian standard) specify a particular size beam then they can't cut it. Yeah you can.... It entirely depends on the situation as to what can be removed and if it can be justified. Re: New house frame issues 169Dec 16, 2014 7:50 pm Hi tlblhayward Generally I prefer not to cut or notched beams unless they fall within 1/3rd of the span from either end... where is the door frame situated...another photo please? Designer,Engineer (Civil,Const & Envir),Builder,Concrete & Masonry Contract.Struct Repairs Re: New house frame issues 171Dec 16, 2014 8:57 pm Thanks everyone for the information. If you want to check our my plans you can download them at... http://bendigowaldorf.blogspot.com.au/p ... tions.html The beam is the 1L5 just outside the living area... Re: New house frame issues 172Dec 16, 2014 9:16 pm StructuralBIMGuy Hi tlblhayward Generally I prefer not to cut or notched beams unless they fall within 1/3rd of the span from either end... where is the door frame situated...another photo please? I can't seem to find the photo of the entire beam. I'll get one asap. Re: New house frame issues 175Dec 17, 2014 8:14 am hitman Also 20mm falls within the acceptable dept for notching What is the maximum depth? Re: New house frame issues 176Dec 17, 2014 9:14 am Depends on a number of things. Have a read of this it explains in more detail. http://www.tilling.com.au/sites/default ... 202012.pdf Re: New house frame issues 177Dec 17, 2014 8:18 pm hitman RedHotMike: Isn't this the guide to go by What I meant was it the span requires say a 290x45 beam you can't then notch it to be 285x45 is that right? That is a table to calculate a hanging beam in a roof holding up ceiling joists only. From what I understand T.B.H. is after a beam that will hold up a floor load. Quote: Thanks everyone for the information. If you want to check our my plans you can download them at... http://bendigowaldorf.blogspot.com.au/p ... tions.html The beam is the 1L5 just outside the living area.... What did they actually install??? It comps up as a 2x300x58LVL15 (roughly equivalent to 2x300x63 Hyspan) at around 87% stress level (I guessed it's end bearing). That starts getting a little too stressed for comfort (creep over time will be excessive so it makes sense to go up a size or 2. 2x360x58LVL15 is stressed to around 49% which is way comfortable and TBH shaving 20mm off to make it 340 should still be fine. If they installed the 300's then I wouldn't be taking anything off it. Re: New house frame issues 178Dec 17, 2014 8:24 pm The beams that were installed were 2 x 360 x 45. I got an email from oru builder's independent structural engineer to say that it will be fine. If anyone can verify that it would be great.
This is 100% true. You can not hang anything on steel frames. very frustrating 8 10425 Hi, We have a single story MacDonald Jones house, on a waffle pod slab with steel frame. Are we able to build a second story extension? Other info is we are 900mm from… 0 9291 I am looking at building a house. Has anyone used Construkt Homes (based in Adelaide)? Does anyone have experience with this builder? 0 6637 |