I cut off drain near your neighbours fence line would be better than a spoon drain as a cut off drain can do both surface and subsurface.
You need to see the soil profile, is it fill over natural clay of is it natural topsoil over natural clay?
Your neighbour may be discharging stormwater onto the ground or there may be a overflowing pool/dam.Finding the source
of the excess water would be a good idea and maybe the best option and not cost you anything depending on how you get on with your
neighbour.
If that doesn't work then a cut off drain near the fence line may be the best option especially if
you can't hook up to your stormwater system.
Dig out the soil profile then you can work out how deep you need to go with the cut off drain if you can't find the source.
Look for the clay depth if you can take a photo of the pit you dig and post it I will have a look, also take some photos of the animal paddock. See if there is water seeping over the clay layer when you dig it up. What area are you in ?
I cut off drain near your neighbours fence line would be better than a spoon drain as a cut off drain can do both surface and subsurface.
You need to see the soil profile, is it fill over natural clay of is it natural topsoil over natural clay?
Your neighbour may be discharging stormwater onto the ground or there may be a overflowing pool/dam.Finding the source
of the excess water would be a good idea and maybe the best option and not cost you anything depending on how you get on with your
neighbour.
If that doesn't work then a cut off drain near the fence line may be the best option especially if
you can't hook up to your stormwater system.
Dig out the soil profile then you can work out how deep you need to go with the cut off drain if you can't find the source.
Look for the clay depth if you can take a photo of the pit you dig and post it I will have a look, also take some photos of the animal paddock. See if there is water seeping over the clay layer when you dig it up. What area are you in ?
I will do, thanks. We are in the Western suburbs of Melbourne.
I cut off drain near your neighbours fence line would be better than a spoon drain as a cut off drain can do both surface and subsurface.
You need to see the soil profile, is it fill over natural clay of is it natural topsoil over natural clay?
Your neighbour may be discharging stormwater onto the ground or there may be a overflowing pool/dam.Finding the source
of the excess water would be a good idea and maybe the best option and not cost you anything depending on how you get on with your
neighbour.
If that doesn't work then a cut off drain near the fence line may be the best option especially if
you can't hook up to your stormwater system.
Dig out the soil profile then you can work out how deep you need to go with the cut off drain if you can't find the source.
Look for the clay depth if you can take a photo of the pit you dig and post it I will have a look, also take some photos of the animal paddock. See if there is water seeping over the clay layer when you dig it up. What area are you in ?
Tried digging a small pit in the animal paddock and it was impossible! Ground is as hard as a rock. Will attempt it again after some rain. Impossible to do so now without machinery.
Tried digging a small pit in the animal paddock and it was impossible! Ground is as hard as a rock. Will attempt it again after some rain. Impossible to do so now without machinery.
this will be a waste of your time and energy. in any case AGi pipe drainage is drainage of last resort for collecting surface water from around your home and should only be used for collecting water when everything else has failed.
Digging trenches and putting agi drains in when you could more easily put in spoon drains/strip drains at the edge of the paths to collect water makes zero sense. Not only that, you lose visibility of anything going wrong over time because the issue is underground. Agi drains often get blocked with silt and muck that filters down over time even with the various fabricks and other measures used to control the issue.
The whole point of the path is to divert water away from your slab and the earth around your house to make sure that the moisture conditions remain consistent all the way around. If the Agi drain isn't installed correctly, you will end up introducing moisture deeper into the ground on one side of your house (per the diagrams) causing bigger issues and you wont be able to tell until there's issues with the house.
the ideal scenario is a stipdrain around the perimeter of the path that collects the water that's being diverted and directs it to storm water like in the below pic. These would be directed to a couple pits spaced between the drains to collect the water before draining into the storm water. The only issue with the pic below is they should have paved/concreted where teh gravel is to bolster the set up. But the pic should give you an idea of what im talking about. Doing this will give you visibility to any future drainage issues - if its bloclked ot has litter in it you will be able to clean it before its a problem, something you wont see with an agidrain untill the damage is done.
To answer one of your earlier questions about the plastic/bricks etc. The builders barely ever leave enough of the plastic to overlap the slap correctly, but its sort of irrelevant when you're going to concrete around. From a realistic perspective, when you concrete around and caulk the gap (you have to do this, otherwise you have the issue you described being concerned about) you're in effect creating the barrier that does the protecting way betetr than any plastic does. Where the plastic sits becomes sort of irrelevant
This the best one I have ever seen !!!
It's difficult to tell from the photo but the concrete slopes towards the drains away from the house.
It has the edge barrier to stop water flowing on to the soil and therefore stop
the ground heaving and lifting the paving up at the edge and sloping it back towards the house.
It has good articulation.
The plumbing was done by a professional and has multiple drain inlets.
This was designed by a very good engineer.
This the best one I have ever seen !!!
It's difficult to tell from the photo but the concrete slopes towards the drains away from the house.
It has the edge barrier to stop water flowing on to the soil and therefore stop
the ground heaving and lifting the paving up at the edge and sloping it back towards the house.
It has good articulation.
The plumbing was done by a professional and has multiple drain inlets.
This was designed by a very good engineer.
Yes, it looks amazing, but we won't be paying for that. Surface drainage on highly reactive soil is the responsibility of the builder.
This the best one I have ever seen !!!
It's difficult to tell from the photo but the concrete slopes towards the drains away from the house.
It has the edge barrier to stop water flowing on to the soil and therefore stop
the ground heaving and lifting the paving up at the edge and sloping it back towards the house.
It has good articulation.
The plumbing was done by a professional and has multiple drain inlets.
This was designed by a very good engineer.
Yes, it looks amazing, but we won't be paying for that. Surface drainage on highly reactive soil is the responsibility of the builder.
Only untill they hand over. After that it's up to you, and trust me if you don't manage it, you will be giving them a get out of jail free card.
This the best one I have ever seen !!!
It's difficult to tell from the photo but the concrete slopes towards the drains away from the house.
It has the edge barrier to stop water flowing on to the soil and therefore stop
the ground heaving and lifting the paving up at the edge and sloping it back towards the house.
It has good articulation.
The plumbing was done by a professional and has multiple drain inlets.
This was designed by a very good engineer.
Yes, it looks amazing, but we won't be paying for that. Surface drainage on highly reactive soil is the responsibility of the builder.
Only untill they hand over. After that it's up to you, and trust me if you don't manage it, you will be giving them a get out of jail free card.
We would manage it if it was installed. But it never was. The land was never graded away from our property, nor were temporary downpipes used.
Yes, it looks amazing, but we won't be paying for that. Surface drainage on highly reactive soil is the responsibility of the builder.
Only untill they hand over. After that it's up to you, and trust me if you don't manage it, you will be giving them a get out of jail free card.
We would manage it if it was installed. But it never was. The land was never graded away from our property, nor were temporary downpipes used.
Ok. Good luck. Let us know how you get on lol
Write reply...This could be one option without connecting to the stormwater system. You could angle the animal paddock cut off drain so you don't need to deepen the trench as it will run the collected water away. If you use agi pipes and and connect
it to the stormwater system via a pit then you won't need the cut off drain in the paddock and the extended angled section on each one.
This probably isn't the solutions as I would need to see the site and gather a lot more information but it may give you some ideas how you can adopt these methods to suit your site.
Is all the roofing, including the shed connected to the stormwater system or does it damp water onto the ground ?
it
Could you please share your thoughts on the following:
If we installed a cut off drain along the neighbour's entire fence line (in green) that discharged to the LPOD, and also installed another cut off drain still in the animal paddock but approx 6m from the house (and discharging in the animal paddock), do you think that would be sufficient to stop water hitting the West side of the house? i.e. would we still need a cut off drain adjacent to the house (i.e. 1m away from it)?
Thanks
Write reply...This could be one option without connecting to the stormwater system. You could angle the animal paddock cut off drain so you don't need to deepen the trench as it will run the collected water away. If you use agi pipes and and connect
it to the stormwater system via a pit then you won't need the cut off drain in the paddock and the extended angled section on each one.
This probably isn't the solutions as I would need to see the site and gather a lot more information but it may give you some ideas how you can adopt these methods to suit your site.
Is all the roofing, including the shed connected to the stormwater system or does it damp water onto the ground ?
it
Could you please share your thoughts on the following:
If we installed a cut off drain along the neighbour's entire fence line (in green) that discharged to the LPOD, and also installed another cut off drain still in the animal paddock but approx 6m from the house (and discharging in the animal paddock), do you think that would be sufficient to stop water hitting the West side of the house? i.e. would we still need a cut off drain adjacent to the house (i.e. 1m away from it)?
Thanks
Why don't you do it in stages and if the drain along the neighbouring boundary isn't working then install the one near the house.
Write reply...This could be one option without connecting to the stormwater system. You could angle the animal paddock cut off drain so you don't need to deepen the trench as it will run the collected water away. If you use agi pipes and and connect
it to the stormwater system via a pit then you won't need the cut off drain in the paddock and the extended angled section on each one.
This probably isn't the solutions as I would need to see the site and gather a lot more information but it may give you some ideas how you can adopt these methods to suit your site.
Is all the roofing, including the shed connected to the stormwater system or does it damp water onto the ground ?
it
Could you please share your thoughts on the following:
If we installed a cut off drain along the neighbour's entire fence line (in green) that discharged to the LPOD, and also installed another cut off drain still in the animal paddock but approx 6m from the house (and discharging in the animal paddock), do you think that would be sufficient to stop water hitting the West side of the house? i.e. would we still need a cut off drain adjacent to the house (i.e. 1m away from it)?
Thanks
Why don't you do it in stages and if the drain along the neighbouring boundary isn't working then install the one near the house.
We are going to start with the trench along the neighbours boundary, as suggested (we organised someone to do it for us). The only concern we have is what will happen if we find that the clay layer is too deep (since we have to dig into the clay layer)? If it is, that means that we won't get enough fall from the rear to the front of the property. In that situation, would it make more sense to just do a spoon drain and focus on catching just the surface water (better than nothing)?
Lisa06
You could do the spoon drain as a first step then if that is not diverting enough water then consider a cut off drain.
I think you should get an expert in drainage to see if you can locate a possible source of excess water from the neighbouring property
eg storm water discharge, dam overflow, broken pipes etc which may avoid any new drainage system and save money.