New house frame issues
Page 12 of 18
With picture 3, the lintel there is packing between the timber and the lintel which means that it is not plumb.
or a 35mm jack stud was used in which case a 10mm packer may be required. Can't tell from that pic if the lintel was out of plumb however that is **very** un-usual)
Quote:
With picture 4, the bracket has been nailed hard up against the timber which means that the truss can not move up and down under the weight of the roof. This is not permitted!
Correct and the nails are supposed to be at the top of the slot to allow the roof to move down.
http://www.pryda.com.au/download/upload ... SA.pdf/384 <- Check out Item 6. The rest of that document is very handy too
http://bendigowaldorf.blogspot.com/2015 ... ction.html
We talked a lot about frame issues so I would appreciate any advice/help that anyone can provide.
The link for the guide that RedHotMike tried to upload is...
https://www.sa.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf ... cklist.pdf
or
http://www.teatreegully.sa.gov.au/webda ... raming.pdf
https://www.sa.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf ... cklist.pdf
or
http://www.teatreegully.sa.gov.au/webda ... raming.pdf
Sorry - I buggered up the link. It's actually different to that document. I have fixed my post.
A report on our site meeting today with a Construction Manager...
http://bendigowaldorf.blogspot.com/2015 ... ction.html
We talked a lot about frame issues so I would appreciate any advice/help that anyone can provide.
http://bendigowaldorf.blogspot.com/2015 ... ction.html
We talked a lot about frame issues so I would appreciate any advice/help that anyone can provide.
Aside from the practicalities of actually doing it (NFI how they are going to go about it) then yeah once it's pulled back into plumb all should be well. Just check none of the nail plates have popped or are starting to pull out. A truss slightly over spaced is usually nothing to worry about from a truss itself point of view although you may have to nog out below the roof battens and a scab may be required to bring plaster back within spec.
*post up the truss plant justification if you are able. It may make interesting reading
Sister joists and/or replacement are fine.
With regard to the wall being out of plumb - I'm assuming it's a L.B. Wall?? In which case just prop the offending trusses/whatever with acro-props, plumb it up and off you go. Recipro saws are great for cutting bottom plate nails :p
1. Which part do you have "NFI how they are going to go about it"?
2. As soon as I get the justification I'll pass it on to you
3. The wall being out of plumb is a load bearing external wall.
Any other thoughts?
RedHotMike...
1. Which part do you have "NFI how they are going to go about it"?
2. As soon as I get the justification I'll pass it on to you
3. The wall being out of plumb is a load bearing external wall.
Any other thoughts?
1. Which part do you have "NFI how they are going to go about it"?
2. As soon as I get the justification I'll pass it on to you
3. The wall being out of plumb is a load bearing external wall.
Any other thoughts?
1. How they are physically going to do the job. I'd not want to be under it whilst they are doing that maneuver but to be fair I haven't seen the work instruction to understand it fully
2. Thanks
3. KK. Yeah, just prop it, plumb it and happy days
I know a case where bath tub plumbing wasn't good enough and leakage under tub cavity caused a big damage within a day post handover.
Does anyone know if it is a requirement to put additional floor joists (or other support) under a freestanding bath on a second floor? The weight of the bath is 40kg, the capacity is 210L and the average Aussie bloke weighs 87.1kg (according to the ABS). That would be almost 340kg!
You can either have a bath full to capacity with water or a person in it, not both. That said the normal domestic floor load is 1.5kPa. From there you should be able to calculate if it's close or not.
Does anyone know if it is a requirement to put additional floor joists (or other support) under a freestanding bath on a second floor? The weight of the bath is 40kg, the capacity is 210L and the average Aussie bloke weighs 87.1kg (according to the ABS). That would be almost 340kg!
You can either have a bath full to capacity with water or a person in it, not both. That said the normal domestic floor load is 1.5kPa. From there you should be able to calculate if it's close or not.
Thanks RedHotMike... I picked up my mistake but I obviously didn't correct it quick enough!
A bath full of water is a "live" load. It is only a short term temporary load which is unlikely to cause permanent deflections in the floor whereas water bed or large fish tank (or full height bookshelf fully loaded with books) would be a "dead" load and more likely to cause permanent deflections.
Well explained... thank you!
Geez laziness like that irritates me
Why would it be your job to do ? Why doesn't he get his QA guy through to do it?
Geez laziness like that irritates me
Geez laziness like that irritates me
I agree... I am thinking that they won't even question them, they will just rectify them. At least if I mark them then I put in the time/effort to climb the ladder 30 times, pull away the sisalation, etc.
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