Browse Forums Landscape & Garden Design Re: Empress Zoysia Help - How to revive? 11Feb 03, 2013 1:21 pm Deposit on land 20/03/12 Deposit with Builder 01/07/12 Tender signing 12/10/12 Into Council 20/01/2013 Site work started 30/04/2013 Keys 15/11/2013 What can i do tomorrow better then today Re: Empress Zoysia Help - How to revive? 12Feb 03, 2013 1:24 pm Deposit on land 20/03/12 Deposit with Builder 01/07/12 Tender signing 12/10/12 Into Council 20/01/2013 Site work started 30/04/2013 Keys 15/11/2013 What can i do tomorrow better then today Re: Empress Zoysia Help - How to revive? 19Feb 07, 2013 11:44 am Recently I laid Sapphire Buffalo in Melbourne with Fu's soil prep, much to my landscaper's bemusement. Combined with mowing it high over summer, my turf doesn't seem to be getting stressed at all with more than 7 days between drinks. Re: Empress Zoysia Help - How to revive? 20Feb 08, 2013 10:30 pm Geeze! Just re read the first post and missed this part. Quote: To combat this over the last few months we have put a Richgro "Weed'n'Feed" (at the advice of Bunnings), Baileys 311 and Urea at different times all over both lawns. To date they haven't done much in the way of help. That will be half your problem and will have created further problems. That is just insane advice. For a start, a new lawn. No way will weed and feed be of a benefit to any new lawn no matter what type. That is mad. The stuff isn't real flash for an old lawn either because of how they contribute to nutrient leaching and the killing of soil microbes vital for a lawns health. The fertiliser mentioned delivers a massive amount of nutrient in an unregulated way. People still see results in healthy lawns but are unaware of how little it took to give those results. The cells in the leaves of the lawn will be thin and weak. Lawns then require more water and will go from boom to bust in appearance. If using a fertiliser, they should only ever be used a supplement every now and then as part of a good lawn care programme. Choose only a fully granulated fertiliser (that means all the minerals are found in each granule. Ferts with different coloured granules should be avoided. Make sure that the fertiliser is a controlled release. Scotts Lawn Builder, Yates Lawn Master. Best ones are "Eco Prime" from Gardeners Direct and "Shades of Green" Munns Golf Course Green is a fertilise wise fertiliser on the organic side. Remember though, fertilisers are not what plants grow. They should only be used as a supplement. Many can be used 4-10 times lighter than the bag suggests. Its your money that goes down the drain if you don't. I never use fertiliser on my lawns and get great lawns all year round, even when they aren't supposed to be green. You can get lawns jumping through hoops with organic care or at least tending more on the organic side. http://gardenrant.com/ministry_of_contr ... awn-reform If using an organic fertiliser make sure it is either BFA certified or NASAA certified. Many fertilisers on the market have far greater application rates than the lawn requires. In one survey done by a very respected horticultural personality, some application rates on fertiliser bags were 10 times higher than the lawn needs. The lowest was 4 times what a lawn needs. Urea on turf is a stroke of craziness. This type of advice is at the bottom of the rung for a healthy lawn. It is said to have uptake rates of around 2% of the nitrogen applied that is taken up by the lawn. Of which the cells further become bloated, thin and weak which leads to heat stress and far greater water requirements. Use of urea on lawns belongs in 1975. (yes the lawn will be green, its a very superficial result) From all that muck being dumped into your poor soil, its hardly a wonder the lawn is alive at all. When getting advice from a garden centre, look for first; Someone qualified in Horticulture. Like doctors there are different levels of study. Hopefully you don't talk to someone who slept through most of their lectures. Second; Seek the advice of someone who is qualified and waterwise trained. Part of that training will mean the above information I have mentioned will have been taught to them. They must pass a test to get the waterwise training certificate. Here are the listed Garden Centres: http://www.watercorporation.com.au/_fil ... stings.pdf Now there are Waterwise Specialists in other Garden Centres so ask for a waterwise accredited Professional Horticulturist. More info to explore: http://www.watercorporation.com.au/W/wa ... aining.cfm Third; Make sure they have continued to up skill their Horticultural skills. Many Horts have done their study in 1988 and never done anything since. They just get stuck in a time warp with their advice and we see problems like above. That drawing’s in the old units. The sewer tie is 1.44m deep and 4.5m offset from left boundary however the levels were taken ages ago so the surface level will have… 1 3543 Hi there, long-time lurker but first time posting. I've bought a house 2 and a bit years ago and last year we had some major water damage on a converted pergola area… 0 5766 Yes, unless you are in a low intensity rainfall area or the area is protected from rain. Do you have access to NCC Part 2 or can you download it? I can email you a copy… 10 10355 |