Browse Forums Landscape & Garden Design Re: Timber seating 8Dec 23, 2010 10:51 pm RoofPlum66 Rex the 30mm batten is for the top of the seat your screwing into the end of that batten for the front slat remember with dek-tie first slat has to be screwed Could I have the jarrah slat at the back of the seat screwed down instead? Im worried that a batten laid ontop of the brickwork will lift the jarrah too high off the brick. Looking for a way so the jarrah can lay directly ontop of the brick. Re: Timber seating 9Dec 23, 2010 10:57 pm You could run a batten along the back and hinge of that with a void underneath for storage but remember to install a pvc sleeve on the bottom course of brick if in the open for water run off Re: Timber seating 10Dec 23, 2010 11:08 pm Rex you can direct stick the jarrah as i,ve done here with my floor boards (brushbox boards) but only problem with being outside even under cover if it gets wet the water will pool as you,ll have noway for run off,battening would be the only way i,ll fix seating outside Re: Timber seating 11Dec 23, 2010 11:17 pm Yeah I considered direct stick, but wasnt sure how water resistant Liquid Nails is... so not going to do that. Im not going to worry about storage. Just trying to think of how to get the jarrah flush on the bricks Re: Timber seating 12Dec 23, 2010 11:32 pm That one slat at the front sticking out ? wouldnt bother about it, its only the thickness of ya boards 22mm but if your plastering the front put a 10mm aluminium strip below the first slat then its only 12mm sticking out Engineering timber is certainly a less fuss option, times cheaper to supply and install and better withstands humidity. 1 15904 Thanks Simon, I guess I'm no concerned with the volume of the noise rather that dead and hollow sound and feel that is associated with floating floors. But I'm not sure… 3 6128 The most likely cause of your timber swelling (parquetry?) is either a plumbing leak or carelessly leaving water on floors after use or both. Without seeing, i am ignoring… 1 3276 |