Lawn Choice

TheGardenWhisperer · Dec 18, 2011 10:24 am

Overall this is an issue I am extremely passionate about. I am not alone on it either. There are some incredible horticultural minds with very similar out looks. They are involved in some great work to make positive change in all aspects of the turf and horticultural industry.

PHL · Dec 18, 2011 5:34 pm

Fu,

Can you recommend a mix to top dress my lawn? My problem was when we site prep, the mix had probably too much organic material. Consequently we now find the level has sunk about 10 cm over the past 4 years. I'd like to build it back up again, and will be happy to do so over a few years, but do not want to repeat that mistake, and at the same time improve the soil if possible.

The top 15 cm when blown in was whatever the soil supplier used in their blower, whereas the original soil is decomposed sandstone as common in parts of Sydney. Using subsurface irrigation.

Any advise on mix appreciated, and we'll need to repair the damage to the SSI done by builders as well.

TheGardenWhisperer · Dec 20, 2011 9:13 am

It wasn't a mistake. What you see is just how much work micro organisms do. All that compost/organic compost became, for the large part, your lawn. Then we cut the lawn and throw it all away.

If you can compost the clippings and reapply to the lawn as a compost. Better still is stopping all the turf care you have ever been told about, back the water off, cut it longer, don't use fertiliser and never use a catcher again on the mower. That will slow everything down getting the lawn better than ever. Check out lawnreform.org

Anyway, it's a blend of compost, sand and the clay you have. I would source each separately. Stick with where you got it before, add some Yellow brickies sand to it, blend it together and that should do. Not ideal but better than the "lawn mixes"

Also this is your chance to get some zeolite in there which is an extremely important soil amendment. It will be there for ever and pay for itself many times over.

TheGardenWhisperer · Dec 20, 2011 9:19 am

I'm not a fan of SSI under turf. Many systems are installed without the proper and extremely expensive RPZ valves to prevent your drinking water integrity from being compromised. MP rotators or Toro Precision nozzle pop ups are extremely efficient.

When you repair the SSI give the system a very long flush. Buy a pressure gauge to connect to it so you can see if you have missed any breaks.

PHL · Dec 21, 2011 9:16 pm

Fu Manchu

It wasn't a mistake. What you see is just how much work micro organisms do. All that compost/organic compost became, for the large part, your lawn. Then we cut the lawn and throw it all away.

If you can compost the clippings and reapply to the lawn as a compost. Better still is stopping all the turf care you have ever been told about, back the water off, cut it longer, don't use fertiliser and never use a catcher again on the mower. That will slow everything down getting the lawn better than ever. Check out lawnreform.org

Very few things leave my garden; on the main, I shred and compost everything, except where there is a risk of disease. I do compost the lawn clippings, but perhaps should just leave the catcher off. Was previously told that leaving the clippings on will lead to thatch, hence have been taking it off.

I do generally leave the grass longer (mower 1-2 notches from the top) as I much prefer the feel under-foot of the longer grass.

Can I just mix the zeolite into the sand and compost (equal amounts?), or do I need to core it first?

PHL · Dec 21, 2011 9:24 pm

Fu Manchu

I'm not a fan of SSI under turf. Many systems are installed without the proper and extremely expensive RPZ valves to prevent your drinking water integrity from being compromised. MP rotators or Toro Precision nozzle pop ups are extremely efficient.

When you repair the SSI give the system a very long flush. Buy a pressure gauge to connect to it so you can see if you have missed any breaks.

Tell me about the expense of the RZP valves, and the herbicide filter... The reason for the SSI was the water restrictions inmSydney at one stage. Now it's not an issue, so may go with pop up gear drive.

Currently have the Hunter PGPs; are the Toro or I think you've mentioned Rain Bird in the past better? If so, may be easier than SSI and the constant fear of puncturing the system. We are also in the process of putting in a 3rd water collection device, probably an 8000l bladder tank under the house, to supplement the 5000l and 2000l tanks, so spray will not be a problem. That way we'll leave the drips for the garden beds and pots.

TheGardenWhisperer · Dec 23, 2011 7:51 pm

$500-$600 dollar mark and annual certification and calibration by a licenced plumber.

PHL · Dec 24, 2011 8:51 am

Fu Manchu

$500-$600 dollar mark and annual certification and calibration by a licenced plumber.

I well know the cost, as I got one, but wasn't told about the annual inspection (or did not hear it).

In that case, it would be easier to convert to pop-ups; I gather you are not so keen on gear drives; the MP sprays fit into a gear drive body, or does it fit into the smaller pop-ups? Do they also come in long throw models, as I need to get to 8+m to cover the lawn area, which I think the Toro Precisions do.

BTW, what do you think of using ANL's Re-Plant for both top dressing the lawn (mixed with zeolite and betonite, as we are on decomposed sandstone), as well as for vege beds (mixed with same plus perlite). It's not easy sourcing some of the things you use in WA in Sydney at a reasonable cost.

ravenhard · Dec 24, 2011 10:50 am

PHL

BTW, what do you think of using ANL's Re-Plant for both top dressing the lawn (mixed with zeolite and betonite, as we are on decomposed sandstone), as well as for vege beds (mixed with same plus perlite). It's not easy sourcing some of the things you use in WA in Sydney at a reasonable cost.

I was also looking at getting some of this rebuild/replant. Emailed them for a price and they say they will only do a minimum amount of 15m3. but the re-build compost was only $58/m3

PHL · Dec 24, 2011 4:28 pm

ravenhard

I was also looking at getting some of this rebuild/replant. Emailed them for a price and they say they will only do a minimum amount of 15m3. but the re-build compost was only $58/m3

Do you know the cost of RePlant? I guess I could split some with a neighbour, although I could probably use all 15m3, as raising the level of the lawn and garden beds will take up 10m3, and we have new planters too, although I would prefer to mix in perlite, zeolite and bentonite as well.

ravenhard · Dec 24, 2011 5:38 pm

did you actually find some perlite? I hunted for a while for it and coulndt find anywhere, so doubled up on zeolite

PHL · Dec 24, 2011 6:21 pm

ravenhard

did you actually find some perlite? I hunted for a while for it and coulndt find anywhere, so doubled up on zeolite

My happens to work near a wholesaler in Banksmeadow (think Botany); from memory it was about $21 for 100l.

kexkez · Dec 24, 2011 9:14 pm

I spotted perlite in 100L bags on eBay for cheap/ free deliveryforyou eastern staters. A while back

PHL · Dec 26, 2011 8:39 am

kexkez

I spotted perlite in 100L bags on eBay for cheap/ free deliveryforyou eastern staters. A while back

Yes, that's the same company I suspect. They are cheaper direct.

I think I've answered my own question re: lawn sprinklers, as Hunter now has the ECO Rotator, which has the MP Rotator already installed. I guess rather than pull out the PGPs, I'll add these to the mix, as the PGP is good for rapid wetting.