Browse Forums Renovation + Home Improvement Re: Timber floor for workshop 2Dec 01, 2011 5:16 am Landscape Design & Construction http://cherub.squarespace.com/ Re: Timber floor for workshop 4Dec 01, 2011 10:44 am Thanks for your replies, the reason for wanting a timber base is because the house I'm in now is a rental and if I move in a few years I would like the option to dismantle it and move the lot and be able to set it up elsewere, I don't plan on moving for a long time but a rental is never secure, also the amount of retaining walls and fill required to make a flat pad for concrete would be huge and it's alot of coin to just leave behind. There must be a way of building this, even if it costs me more than the concrete and so on at least I only buy it once. Steel frame? masonite floor? Re: Timber floor for workshop 5Dec 01, 2011 2:21 pm If you really want to use timber then 600 centre bearers and 300 centre joists might work but you'll need to cover in vinyl or something that can withstand liquids. I think you should also consider using blue tongue flooring if you can get it. I'm not sure what spacing it has specified though. An engineer or even someone who specializes in commercial flooring should be able to work out the load it can handle and the load you'll put it under. Re: Timber floor for workshop 6Dec 01, 2011 2:52 pm Many years ago FIL had an elevated timber floor garage and parked a tip truck in there every night, then when some of the earthmoving machinery (or the truck) needed an engine/gearbox/diff transplant it would be moved into the shed so they could work undercover and out of the bad weather. None of these were lightweight as they were used in earthmoving Mon-Fri and maintenance etc done over the weekend. I remember those floorboards were very wide (as they all used to be back then) but they were oil soaked over time which made them waterproof. C&K I think vinyl flooring would be dangerous if oil/grease gets spilled...and it's bound to happen when building engines etc. While I can't remember bearer and joist spacings I do recall the old power poles used as stumps that he set into the ground...no concrete anywhere. I think he got the power poles from a site he had been working on and while they were condemned for carrying power cables they were still in good enough condition to support this huge shed for many, many years. In fact when we pulled it down it was only because MIL wanted it gone out of the yard (he had long since gone) and we were most surprised at how strong it still was as it had been built from recycled timbers and always had heavy trucks/equipment parked on it all the time and I guess it would have stood another 50 years without any problems. It was a huge shed and also very high, the front door was at regular ground level then the land naturally fell away from there so the last row of stumps would have been 1.5m of exposed post. I know this is not common building practice these days but for what you want it might be worth considering and if you can use recycled timber as much as possible that will help the budget. Exterior cladding could be colorbond etc so it looks good from the outside to keep council and the neighbours happy. Could you build it in sections 2400mm wide so it will be more easily dismantled if/when you have to move? Just my 2 cents!! LOL Btw, what category race car? Re: Timber floor for workshop 7Dec 01, 2011 2:56 pm It seems like an awful lot of work to do especially on a rental unless you have a very long lease, assuming, you receive the owner's permission to begin with. Then as you are 'building a race-car' there may be noise concerns when car tuning etc as their exhausts are rarely quiet, which may upset the neighbors and possibly end your race-car building or even end your rental agreement. Much homework is needed here. Arfur Re: Timber floor for workshop 8Dec 01, 2011 5:06 pm Thanks people, to answer some questions, yes I have as long as I want lease unless something unexpected comes up, I will stay here until I buy a property and thats part of the reason for wanting to be able to pack it up and move it. It has all been approved by the owner and council for the size workshop I want, neibours aren't a problem with noise as long as it's not at stupid hours of course and most tuning and running in of engines will be done on dyno anyway. I am not afraid of hard work so the labour part is a non issue I just need a plan to work with, My yard falls away like happycamper was descibing thats why I wish to put it on stumps which will end up about 1m high at the rear. The race car is for the drag strip, N/A mod street, 408ci tunnel rammed cleveland in a TF Cortina LOL good times Cheers Re: Timber floor for workshop 9Dec 03, 2011 11:21 am Stumper Hey everybody, I need some advice on building a floor for my workshop, I want to build it like a house on stumps, the workshop will be a 9m x 6m colourbond and will be used to build my race car so needs to be structually strong enough for a car and engines on stands ect ect. My thoughts were 90x35 treated pine 600 spacing and layed in both directions, with 22mm tounge and groove flooring, stumps every 1.5m would this be strong enough? Cheers I don't think it would be strong enough, but I'm no structural engineer! I'd build the subfloor out of steel (or hardwood) then 25mm hardwood flooring and don't use utility grade. I would also pour two parallel slabs for the car to sit on if you don't want an entire slab...given the size of your shed it won't be cheap! How about a pic of the car.... Re: Timber floor for workshop 10Dec 04, 2011 11:01 pm Thanks Andy, the car is nothing to brag about at the moment LOL I have collected alot of parts but now need the workshop so I can go full steam ahead, here are some pics anyway of what I'm starting with. Cheers Re: Timber floor for workshop 12Dec 07, 2011 11:00 am Go steel my friend. -Steel sub frame, steel C channells maybe. -Steel checkerplate finish. -When your done with it all you can disassemble and move it, or flog it for scrap. Good Luck. Pat. Re: Timber floor for workshop 13Dec 08, 2011 12:29 am Cheers Pat, I was thinking exactly that just yesterday, the only problem I can think of with checker is rolling engine stands and cranes around on it would be difficult. The steel frame is the go I reckon, I still think that 22mm tounge and groove flooring on top would be allright, thats pretty thick. Engineering timber is certainly a less fuss option, times cheaper to supply and install and better withstands humidity. 1 16925 The most likely cause of your timber swelling (parquetry?) is either a plumbing leak or carelessly leaving water on floors after use or both. Without seeing, i am ignoring… 1 3605 Thank you. Do I use timber floorboards for stairs or do people use timber treads? Or is both the same? 6 8325 |