Browse Forums General Discussion Re: Possible Building Movement - dropping eave, drainage pro 2Nov 05, 2011 10:47 am Some people apparently have nothing better to do than comment on other people's sigs. Re: Possible Building Movement - dropping eave, drainage pro 3Nov 05, 2011 12:40 pm It does look like roof movement which can happen, usually with age. I suggest you get up and sight along the fascia bottom edge on the longer side which will give you some idea of just how much it has dropped. Then tackle the builder with regard to his warranty, before calling an expensive engineer What concerns me most is your stormwater laying along the narrow side. I think any engineer will hit on this first up as a disaster waiting to happen. If neighboring surface water is entering your property get it stopped or if its a vacant block dig a trench along the other side of the fence to divert it away. When I built many years ago in Adelaide's highly reactive soils we were continually warned about getting 1metre of paving around the building perimeter ASAP or we would void our building warranty, so its a serious issue here. Arfur Re: Possible Building Movement - dropping eave, drainage pro 4Nov 15, 2011 10:20 pm thanks for the info. how deep/wide should a trench be in the vacant block? yes the eave is out horizontally now. no signs of movement or step cracking in mortar. in the garage (just near where the eave problem is) there is a few hairline cracks in the slab (always been there), and the internal access door arcihtrave has cracked away from the plaster, the door is a bit out of square too. I can't remember if the door was like that when we moved in (6 months ago) or not though, the crack definitely wasn't there though (could just be a cosmetic crack rather than structural)? Re: Possible Building Movement - dropping eave, drainage pro 6Nov 16, 2011 1:37 pm Quote: how deep/wide should a trench be in the vacant block? If the neighboring vacant block slopes towards your fence allowing water to enter your property, I think a trench about 150mm deep and the width of a shovel should be enough to channel the water away toward the street -- provided the block slopes that way. Either that or you will have to install an open topped stormwater drain (expensive) along your side of the boundary Arfur Re: Possible Building Movement - dropping eave, drainage pro 7Nov 17, 2011 1:06 pm Uncle Arfur Quote: how deep/wide should a trench be in the vacant block? If the neighboring vacant block slopes towards your fence allowing water to enter your property, I think a trench about 150mm deep and the width of a shovel should be enough to channel the water away toward the street -- provided the block slopes that way. Either that or you will have to install an open topped stormwater drain (expensive) along your side of the boundary Vacant or not, it is the owners responsibility to make sure that any water that originates from their property does not enter another persons. Someone has to own that land and I'd be after them to address the issue of a lot of water inundating my land. Re: Possible Building Movement - dropping eave, drainage pro 8Nov 17, 2011 1:38 pm not quite correct, as long as the neighbouring block do not have purpose built infrastructure/feature/drainage to divert water into other block it is not consider a problem. a house sitting higher than the other is normal and often seen in new estate where every builders have their own mind, the lower block has to find a solution. Re: Possible Building Movement - dropping eave, drainage pro 9Nov 18, 2011 12:04 pm rojak1 not quite correct, as long as the neighboring block do not have purpose built infrastructure/feature/drainage to divert water into other block it is not consider a problem. a house sitting higher than the other is normal and often seen in new estate where every builders have their own mind, the lower block has to find a solution. If the higher blocks natural ground level has been altered then a suitable system of managing water flow must also be installed. I understand that "natural runoff" is not an issue, but is the owner/developer/builder has changed the levels of the land then they are required to manage the water runoff caused by the change. E.g: My block slopes left to right form the street and rainfall has historically run to my boundary. If by building my house the runoff increases significantly to that same boundary I am required to provide a suitable solution to manage that runoff. Also If I chose to pave or concrete an area that would normally run off toward my neighbor, I must then also install suitable drainage. Re: Possible Building Movement - dropping eave, drainage pro 10Nov 18, 2011 9:02 pm dammit Our home was completed being built just over 1 year ago, we have lived here for 6 months. We bought the property as a 'brand new/completed new build home', the builder had built/designed it and later put it on the real estate market where we bought it...so don't know if you would call that a 'turn key' or just bought a new home but anyway. We got the usual pre purchase building and pest inspections, the building inspection said there was a 2m by 1mm hairline crack in the garage of the slab but it was not a concern. They did not bring up any other items. I have noticed on the front garage corner of the house, where the eave at the front is 600mm, (there is no eave to the side of the garage), but the front corner seems to have dropped, there must have been some movement on the eave dropping because some of the paint work under the eave now has cracks and if you look to the side of the house up at where the eave connects with the brick wall, there is an 8mm crack/gap. (picture below): Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Should I be getting a structural engineer out to check this, or contacting the builder straight away to get him over to show him ?? Not sure if the slab/house has moved a little, or if the roof was not designed with enough support to the front eave, but guessing in a 1 year old building the eave should not be starting to sag. Does this seem like a big problem? I don't know if this is related but on the same side of the house, I also have a problem with drainage...there is a vacant block and water is running off it to the side of our house and also when we get a big downpour of rain, the stupid Leaf Eater gutter down pipes just have water spill out everywhere. There is 1 measley stormwater drain on each side of the house, and it is landscaped with pebbles, the builder did all the landscaping prior to sale. My other question here is, that the slab design/report says each side should have landscaping to 1:20 grade fall to divert water away from the slab, well the landscaping the builder did does not conform to this, its just flat/all over the place, does not even direct water to the 2 storm water drains they put in. Is this something the builder should rectify, or should I be resolving it at my own cost (paying for paths to be put in, or pavers, or ag pipe system or a drainage system)?? Should I get a plumber in, or what is the best way to resolve it? I rang the council about the vacant block's water run off but because they haven't developed or changed it, then its my problem...so until someone builds on there I need drainage or something to protect our house?? Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Hi dammit, Do you have a tin or tile roof? I'm guessing it is tile but the same thing can happen with tin. Because you have cut off eaves it also mean the hip is cut off, so instead ot the hip extending out and the roof batten finishing on it. The batten finishes on the 600 fly rafter, which very little strength. Certainly no need for an engineer, although it would be good building practice to prop the fly rafter for support, I don't know that it would be a requirement of the truss company to do so. A simple fix would be remove the fibro on the end, and either reposition it to close the gap or cut a new piece to suit. Or just fill it with gaps and touch it up. I'd would try contacting your builder and see if they will rectify it, they may do it as a gesture of good faith. But seriously i'd be lucky to give it a 1 out of 10 on the scale of defects to worry about. On the water issue, does it sit there for days/weeks before getting away or is it just slow to drain? If it's sitting I think there would be some cause for concern, you could clean the stone from around the yard gully and try to lower itso it actually at ground level rather then the top of the stones. I also noticed the con pipe for the AC isn't over the grate. May be worth giving that a bit of a bend to make sure it does. If we have another drought and that spot is always wet there would be a pretty good chance you could get some edge heave. Cheers mgilla Old Home Restoration / Renovation Cheers mate! This is exactly what I was thinking but wasn't sure if it was something I'd find on the shelf. I agree with you, fixing the brackets to the board will look… 2 2647 2 3747 Have look at your house plans and you will probably find that brick articulation joint has been missed. Maximum allowable spacing is 6M or 5.5M for a wall with window… 17 16729 |