Browse Forums Flooring & Floor Covering Re: Timber floor hardness 6Mar 13, 2008 6:19 pm It wouldn't necessarily 'dent' provided you use a oil-based polurethane on top. Cypress pine is one of the most widely used timber floors in Australia and has a janka of around 4.5 Re: Timber floor hardness 8Mar 13, 2008 6:23 pm bec anyone know how is "select ES blackbutt" different from ES blackbutt? Bec, usually the word select means that there are less or no imperfections in the look of the timber, like gum veins, spirals, burls, insect trails and other natural variations eg. colour variations that give timber floors a unique character. Select grades are always more expensive than the standard. Re: Timber floor hardness 9Mar 13, 2008 6:30 pm Phoenix where did you get those janka ratings?
I would debate some of those figures: Aussie Beech is a mix of various Blackbutts and Stringybarks yet it lists as 7.5? As for not using anything under a janka rating of 9, that would only perhaps apply if using tung-oil Re: Timber floor hardness 10Mar 13, 2008 6:56 pm Dukekamaya Phoenix where did you get those janka ratings? I would debate some of those figures: Aussie Beech is a mix of various Blackbutts and Stringybarks yet it lists as 7.5? As for not using anything under a janka rating of 9, that would only perhaps apply if using tung-oil I grabbed it from this site: http://www.connollys.com.au/flooring-species.html Is it not correct?? Re: Timber floor hardness 11Mar 13, 2008 7:02 pm The website also states:
* These timbers are blends of several species. The Janka rating is the average rating for the species used in that blend. Does that make any difference? Re: Timber floor hardness 12Mar 13, 2008 7:07 pm There are more 'blends' on that list than asterisks show eg. Spotted Gum, Vic Ash and Nth Beech.
Red and Grey Ironbarks are blends but only contain Ironbark eucylpts Spotted Gum whilst mostly contains Spotted Gum also contains Lemon-scented gum and one other Corymbia species I can't recall Blackbutt (coastal) can even be two types of Blackbutt whilst New England Blackbutt is single species. Re: Timber floor hardness 13Mar 13, 2008 11:19 pm In reality folks, all timber floors are going to sratch, so if you want timber floors, then expect it to get scratched, to age and to take on some character over the years.
Sure - you can get softer and harder timbers, but I'd focus more on what you like, make sure it si renewable, then coat it with something that you are happy to live with, (chemical and durability wise) and just plain enjoy it. And as required be prepared to re-coat it as and when it gets to a stage that you are not happy with. If timber was super touhg and low maintenance - I'm sure every shopping centre would use as their main walkway surface Steve Re: Timber floor hardness 15Mar 14, 2008 9:05 am nzfiona Are these ratings for timber flooring only or for any wooden floors, ie, laminated as well? Fiona No Fiona, sorry, laminates are a different story when it comes to hardness. Re: Timber floor hardness 17Mar 14, 2008 12:02 pm My vote is for carbonised/coffee strand woven bamboo (see "bamboo flooring" thread). Hardness of 14.5-16.5 on the Janka scale.
(and it looks good too - not too dark, not too light). It is noticeably harder than Jarrah. Sure, all floors will scratch. Even tiles will scratch. However, a softer surface will scratch more easily, and thus, you'll need to resurface more regularly. Chris Re: Timber floor hardness 18Mar 14, 2008 12:24 pm eimaj in what way phoenix? eimaj, laminate flooring is not an actual timber floor, it is constructed of a surface layer of two thin sheets of paper impregnated with melamine. This surface layer is a photograph of wood grain, not real wood, and is usually covered by a hard transparent layer impervious to dogs, chairs, high heels, you name it. Under the wood-grain photograph is about a half-inch of wood-chip composite. It works well in high-traffic areas and homes with pets. It is scratch-resistant, durable and easy to clean. Most manufacturers usually offer a 10+ year warranty on their products. Re: Timber floor hardness 20Mar 14, 2008 1:32 pm **Phoenix** eimaj in what way phoenix? eimaj, laminate flooring is not an actual timber floor, it is constructed of a surface layer of two thin sheets of paper impregnated with melamine. This surface layer is a photograph of wood grain, not real wood, and is usually covered by a hard transparent layer impervious to dogs, chairs, high heels, you name it. Under the wood-grain photograph is about a half-inch of wood-chip composite. It works well in high-traffic areas and homes with pets. It is scratch-resistant, durable and easy to clean. Most manufacturers usually offer a 10+ year warranty on their products. So, given the durability of laminated floors, why would anyone get actual timber flooring? I guess to do with having the "real thing"? Fiona Engineering timber is certainly a less fuss option, times cheaper to supply and install and better withstands humidity. 1 16329 The most likely cause of your timber swelling (parquetry?) is either a plumbing leak or carelessly leaving water on floors after use or both. Without seeing, i am ignoring… 1 3451 Thank you. Do I use timber floorboards for stairs or do people use timber treads? Or is both the same? 6 7726 |