Browse Forums Outdoor Living Re: My alfresco decking II... 41Aug 04, 2009 3:54 pm Built Liberty 42 - Handover 26th Feb 2010 forum thread: https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=17243 Re: My alfresco decking II... 42Aug 04, 2009 4:22 pm Nightshade So did you have to put in a termite barrier with the boards sitting on the concrete so close to the ground? Didn't put a termite barrier in as the house has a termite barrier already installed around the perimeter of the slab. Was a requirement by the builder. Cheers, Mike. My Blog... http://ahouseonthehill.blogspot.com/ Re: My alfresco decking II... 43Aug 04, 2009 4:31 pm Nightshade So did you have to put in a termite barrier with the boards sitting on the concrete so close to the ground? Treated pine framing with naturally termite resistant merbau decking - I don't imagine a termite barrier was needed Re: My alfresco decking II... 44Aug 04, 2009 4:37 pm Cool..I was looking at doing something similar but using steel frame and modwood decking but they steel guys said it had to have 300mm clearance to bottom of bearer or have a termite bearer...might look into that again. Built Liberty 42 - Handover 26th Feb 2010 forum thread: https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=17243 Re: My alfresco decking II... 45Aug 04, 2009 4:37 pm Dukekamaya Nightshade So did you have to put in a termite barrier with the boards sitting on the concrete so close to the ground? Treated pine framing with naturally termite resistant merbau decking - I don't imagine a termite barrier was needed That as well! My Blog... http://ahouseonthehill.blogspot.com/ Re: My alfresco decking II... 46Aug 04, 2009 7:03 pm Why would anyone be worried about termites with steel and Modwood?? Re: My alfresco decking II... 47Aug 04, 2009 7:04 pm I'm looking at doing something similar but I don't have a slab down. should I fill some post holes with rapid set, and dyna bolt some galvanised stirrips into the concrete at the right height for the bearers? without a termite barrier do I also need to leave a gap between the deck and the house? ’’Quondo Omni Flunkus Mortati ’’ If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy. Stila BK1 Build Thread The best place to talk about sport Re: My alfresco decking II... 48Aug 04, 2009 8:18 pm Quote: Why would anyone be worried about termites with steel and Modwood?? Cause I'm paranoid of termites after I had them in my current house..they are so evil. New house is steel frame! Built Liberty 42 - Handover 26th Feb 2010 forum thread: https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=17243 Re: My alfresco decking II... 49Aug 04, 2009 9:09 pm serge44 should I fill some post holes with rapid set, and dyna bolt some galvanised stirrips into the concrete at the right height for the bearers? without a termite barrier do I also need to leave a gap between the deck and the house? Concrete the stirrups in the hole after they are attached to the bearer. Prop the bearer up with some offcuts and F-clamps. Its much easier to level the bearer with the stirrups dangling in the holes rather than trying to level each stirrup individually. The deck can stilll be attached to the house. Termites will not expose themselves to the light to get into your house and they will not tunnel up the inside of the treated pine. Re: My alfresco decking II... 50Aug 04, 2009 9:43 pm thanks Dukekamaya what about the alfresco area (under cover)? would termites venture out in a darkened corner? I'd rather leave a 25-40mm gap for inspection purposes if I need to. ’’Quondo Omni Flunkus Mortati ’’ If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy. Stila BK1 Build Thread The best place to talk about sport Re: My alfresco decking II... 51Aug 05, 2009 4:18 pm They would sooner burrow into your neighbours house than expose themselves by climbing up a post anchor Re: My alfresco decking II... 52Aug 05, 2009 9:26 pm [hijack] I'll make sure I ship in some pine bark chips for the neighbours garden. I'm thinking of using ironbark for the decking. finished off with sekkens. any recommendation for a cheaper option if funds runs low? [/hijack] ’’Quondo Omni Flunkus Mortati ’’ If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy. Stila BK1 Build Thread The best place to talk about sport Re: My alfresco decking II... 53Aug 05, 2009 9:57 pm ironbark finished in Sikkens Cetol HLS (not Cetol Deck) is a pretty unbeatable combo IMO. Not sure how you could cheapen it really unless you go with Merbau which has hit the sub $4 per metre mark in some places for 90x19mm. Re: My alfresco decking II... 54Oct 01, 2009 12:19 pm Dukekamaya They would sooner burrow into your neighbours house than expose themselves by climbing up a post anchor Not entirely true. It all depends on the the termite species you are dealing with or are common in your area. Most termite species which attack your home will commonly build up over metel stirups, antcapping etc to get to the food source, your home! The metal stirups, antcapping ect is only there to deter concealed termite entry into your house, deck etc and so they are visible and so should be treated accordingly. Termites will even travel through the centre of treated pine logs if they have split without exposing themselves to the outside environment. Termites will also actively forage for new food sources unprotected by their shelter tubes (mud leads) if the humidity is high enough and they are in a fairly protected area. It would be advisable to leave the last decking board against your house screwed down, rather than nailed, so you can lift it up every few months to inspect that area. Also it depends which termite barrier was installed to your house during construction. If it is termimesh, granitgard, homeguard etc then that visual line in which the barrier is installed must also be kept visible. If it is a chemical barrier installed by the means of a reticulation (or replenishment) system ie termguard, altis, etc which is retreatable then there is no such line in which the deck should be kept below, but you should still allow for visual inspection. Hope this has helped in someway, if not then at least i have given the general forumiets some handy info. Cheers Re: My alfresco decking II... 55Nov 11, 2009 8:29 am You can setup your own reticulation system using irrigation products (available from bunnings) Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ 4mm pipe around each post/stirrup Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ prepare the soil around perimeter with plastic lining (in trench) and course sand. Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ lay pipe (with holes along length) around perimeter fixed with pegs Use pidgins termite insecticide and pump through ststem using pump spray. Re: My alfresco decking II... 56Nov 11, 2009 10:34 am Love your decking - congrats on a great job. Question for you - on our place we dont get a concrete slab under alfresco area, just dirt - do you recommend putting concrete down and then decking on that or would it be ok just on timber feet (posts) I dont know what to call them? Site Start: 10th September, 2010 PCI : Friday 27th January, 2011. Handover: 3rd February, 2011 Build Thread: viewtopic.php?f=31&t=37677 Re: My alfresco decking II... 57Dec 07, 2009 10:48 pm Dukekamaya ironbark finished in Sikkens Cetol HLS (not Cetol Deck) is a pretty unbeatable combo IMO. I've had differences of opinions provided as to the best time to oil the deck. do it straight away or wait for 6-8 weeks before giving it a coat or three after washing down with oxalic acide. want to add to the confusion for me? ’’Quondo Omni Flunkus Mortati ’’ If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy. Stila BK1 Build Thread The best place to talk about sport Re: My alfresco decking II... 58Dec 08, 2009 6:33 pm Apart from merbau, I would wash with oxalic acid then coat staight away. Merbau needs time to bleed the tannin out, washing repeatedly with oxalic acid over several weeks helps. I find many hardware/ paint shops often recommend leaving decking anywhere up to 6 months. This goes back to the days gone when decking was always unseasoned and was used more to serve a purpose than as a feature it is today. Timber finish products nearly all say not to apply to unseasoned (or green) timber. Almost all decking is now seasoned (kiln or air-dried) The only problem with Sikkens is the long drying time. I have just coated my new back deck in Intergrain Ultradeck which is water-based. With a new puppy and three kids I simply couldn't have the back door and deck out of action for the 3 or 4 days needed with the Sikkens. I did use the CetolHLS on the front verandah, its been down a year and still looks like new. Re: My alfresco decking II... 59Dec 08, 2009 8:01 pm thanks Duke and now I can see why the uncle-in-law is going on about leaving the deck unfinished for a month or three - he only ever uses Merbau. the builder is a fan of feast watson. ’’Quondo Omni Flunkus Mortati ’’ If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy. Stila BK1 Build Thread The best place to talk about sport Re: My alfresco decking II... 60Dec 08, 2009 8:25 pm The Feast Watson product is a traditional decking oil - it will evaporate and will not repel dirt. Intergrain is made by the same company - Orica (as is Cabots), the Intergrain Ultradeck or even the cheaper version Cabots Aquadeck (both water-based decking oils) would give you a much better performance. Hi, as per the subject. Does anyone have any recommendations for the best value decking oil (Bunning is close to where I live) for a treated pine deck? Thanks 0 11592 Hello! I've alfresco pitch of 3 degrees sitting just below the highlight window. Need advice on below: 1. Will the 3 degree pitch be ok to drain the rain water? The roof… 0 4244 Use a product like Equisol's Vitalise to clean the deck then coat with a penetrating timber oil. It will look 10 years younger and add value to your home. Visit for… 1 15928 |