Browse Forums Building A New House 1 Apr 13, 2020 9:22 pm Read my first home build journey by clicking the following link Building with SJD Homes in 2020 - Charleston 310 Customised Re: Insulation Question for Windows, Walls, Ceiling and Roof 3Apr 14, 2020 12:58 am Read my first home build journey by clicking the following link Building with SJD Homes in 2020 - Charleston 310 Customised Re: Insulation Question for Windows, Walls, Ceiling and Roof 6Apr 14, 2020 8:40 pm Read my first home build journey by clicking the following link Building with SJD Homes in 2020 - Charleston 310 Customised Re: Insulation Question for Windows, Walls, Ceiling and Roof 9Apr 15, 2020 12:11 pm Read my first home build journey by clicking the following link Building with SJD Homes in 2020 - Charleston 310 Customised Re: Insulation Question for Windows, Walls, Ceiling and Roof 14Apr 22, 2020 7:12 pm Read my first home build journey by clicking the following link Building with SJD Homes in 2020 - Charleston 310 Customised Re: Insulation Question for Windows, Walls, Ceiling and Roof 15Apr 22, 2020 7:27 pm ![]() ![]() Other than that: 1) consider basins in your WCs; 2) consider replacing CSDs with hinged doors - they will be too noisy for the bedrooms and causing maintenance issues in the long run. Hinged doors will be cheaper too. 3) double check if CSD between family and bedrooms is unlikely to be used at all and doesn't make much sense to have it there at all (just leave nice opening over there or in the worst case hinged door). 4) 610 slider robes won't be able to hold anything in it. You will lose 100 mm on sliding mechanism, so you will end up with 510 robes which won't be good enough to hold even summer clothes, not talking about winter clothes which generally require at least 600 mm + slider. In fact, you have even less space there as it is 610 mm with the wall, so, in fact, you are closer to 420 mm over there - absolutely useless robes. General recommendation - if you have enough space to open the doors, don't go with sliders. You are also losing some of the horizontal robe space on that gyprock wall on the other side, instead of having a proper built-in robe with all the robe wall there. 5) it won't be very convenient to cook in your kitchen with the sink being in WIP and cooker in the main kitchen. I would rather move sink to an island or at least put it where your fridge is + make WIP opening wider (align it with your WIP external door, it will look nicer this way). The space in the corner to the right of your current sink will perfect for the fridge. You generally keep bin under the sink, too. In general, your kitchen is really tiny and I would rather to extend it all the way along the way to the pantry area and live only small area where you sink is as an actual pantry space. 6) garage doors opening inside eat out valuable space you can use to park your cars. Your garage is certainly not extra long. 7) you would want your bath to fill all the opening space so you don't have to tile over the edges, it is never a good option as the water will be constantly slashing over the edges and then dripping on the floor around. Save some money on tiling, too. Just my 2 cents. alexp79 Great suggestions. Thanks once again. Just a question regarding the #6. Can't understand your point there as it is remote control panel lift door which (I think) will slide up and will go backward with the garage ceiling. Something like this Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Or can you please help me understand what you mean? I was talking about internal garage door leading into your house as well as a smaller door leading outside. Re: Insulation Question for Windows, Walls, Ceiling and Roof 16Apr 25, 2020 8:06 pm ![]() ![]() ![]() Other than that: 1) consider basins in your WCs; 2) consider replacing CSDs with hinged doors - they will be too noisy for the bedrooms and causing maintenance issues in the long run. Hinged doors will be cheaper too. 3) double check if CSD between family and bedrooms is unlikely to be used at all and doesn't make much sense to have it there at all (just leave nice opening over there or in the worst case hinged door). 4) 610 slider robes won't be able to hold anything in it. You will lose 100 mm on sliding mechanism, so you will end up with 510 robes which won't be good enough to hold even summer clothes, not talking about winter clothes which generally require at least 600 mm + slider. In fact, you have even less space there as it is 610 mm with the wall, so, in fact, you are closer to 420 mm over there - absolutely useless robes. General recommendation - if you have enough space to open the doors, don't go with sliders. You are also losing some of the horizontal robe space on that gyprock wall on the other side, instead of having a proper built-in robe with all the robe wall there. 5) it won't be very convenient to cook in your kitchen with the sink being in WIP and cooker in the main kitchen. I would rather move sink to an island or at least put it where your fridge is + make WIP opening wider (align it with your WIP external door, it will look nicer this way). The space in the corner to the right of your current sink will perfect for the fridge. You generally keep bin under the sink, too. In general, your kitchen is really tiny and I would rather to extend it all the way along the way to the pantry area and live only small area where you sink is as an actual pantry space. 6) garage doors opening inside eat out valuable space you can use to park your cars. Your garage is certainly not extra long. 7) you would want your bath to fill all the opening space so you don't have to tile over the edges, it is never a good option as the water will be constantly slashing over the edges and then dripping on the floor around. Save some money on tiling, too. Just my 2 cents. alexp79 Great suggestions. Thanks once again. Just a question regarding the #6. Can't understand your point there as it is remote control panel lift door which (I think) will slide up and will go backward with the garage ceiling. Something like this Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Or can you please help me understand what you mean? I was talking about internal garage door leading into your house as well as a smaller door leading outside. Ah, alright. got your points regarding the two internal doors from the garage... Thanks Read my first home build journey by clicking the following link Building with SJD Homes in 2020 - Charleston 310 Customised Re: Insulation Question for Windows, Walls, Ceiling and Roof 17May 14, 2020 1:52 pm ![]() We are building a single story house (drawing attached). We've chosen the following 1. Roof: Colorbond + Bradford Anticon R1.3 2. Ceiling: R3.5 BATTS 3. Wall: Sisalation (Superstrong Breather) + R2.5 BATTS to external walls. 4. Windows: Double Glazed Windows However, the stackers, a sliding door and window in WIP, sliding door in Laundry are still single glazed that we didn't upgrade due to our budget. Our main concern is Winter (cold). 1. Would there be significant difference in temperature in the living and kitchen area in winter, if the stackers, sliding door and a window in WIP will be single glazed? I mean, how much would be the difference if we upgrade these to double glazed? 2. Should we consider upgrading these to double glazed and downgrading anything else (mentioned above) which we might have upgraded unnecessarily or not that important as these double glazed stackers and a door & a window is? Or is there anything else which is more important than the stuff I mentioned? Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ External wall Sisalation detail Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Double glaze your stacker door as it is in the living area. I would not worry too much about the WIP as long as you can close the internal door. "ECOECO" Double Glazing in Aluminium & Thermally Broken Aluminium Replacement Window Experts Including Installation (Melb) Tel. 1800 326 326 Re: Insulation Question for Windows, Walls, Ceiling and Roof 18May 14, 2020 2:33 pm ![]() ![]() We are building a single story house (drawing attached). We've chosen the following 1. Roof: Colorbond + Bradford Anticon R1.3 2. Ceiling: R3.5 BATTS 3. Wall: Sisalation (Superstrong Breather) + R2.5 BATTS to external walls. 4. Windows: Double Glazed Windows However, the stackers, a sliding door and window in WIP, sliding door in Laundry are still single glazed that we didn't upgrade due to our budget. Our main concern is Winter (cold). 1. Would there be significant difference in temperature in the living and kitchen area in winter, if the stackers, sliding door and a window in WIP will be single glazed? I mean, how much would be the difference if we upgrade these to double glazed? 2. Should we consider upgrading these to double glazed and downgrading anything else (mentioned above) which we might have upgraded unnecessarily or not that important as these double glazed stackers and a door & a window is? Or is there anything else which is more important than the stuff I mentioned? Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ External wall Sisalation detail Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Double glaze your stacker door as it is in the living area. I would not worry too much about the WIP as long as you can close the internal door. WIP don't actually have an internal door. Its a square set opening Read my first home build journey by clicking the following link Building with SJD Homes in 2020 - Charleston 310 Customised Re: Insulation Question for Windows, Walls, Ceiling and Roof 19May 14, 2020 3:54 pm ![]() ![]() ![]() We are building a single story house (drawing attached). We've chosen the following 1. Roof: Colorbond + Bradford Anticon R1.3 2. Ceiling: R3.5 BATTS 3. Wall: Sisalation (Superstrong Breather) + R2.5 BATTS to external walls. 4. Windows: Double Glazed Windows However, the stackers, a sliding door and window in WIP, sliding door in Laundry are still single glazed that we didn't upgrade due to our budget. Our main concern is Winter (cold). 1. Would there be significant difference in temperature in the living and kitchen area in winter, if the stackers, sliding door and a window in WIP will be single glazed? I mean, how much would be the difference if we upgrade these to double glazed? 2. Should we consider upgrading these to double glazed and downgrading anything else (mentioned above) which we might have upgraded unnecessarily or not that important as these double glazed stackers and a door & a window is? Or is there anything else which is more important than the stuff I mentioned? Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ External wall Sisalation detail Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Double glaze your stacker door as it is in the living area. I would not worry too much about the WIP as long as you can close the internal door. WIP don't actually have an internal door. Its a square set opening Then DG them all it's dearer later... "ECOECO" Double Glazing in Aluminium & Thermally Broken Aluminium Replacement Window Experts Including Installation (Melb) Tel. 1800 326 326 For Perth, the government's 'Your Home' website recommends a minimum of R4.1 for the roof/ceiling, R2.8 for the walls https://www.yourhome.gov.au/passive-design/insulation 5 2805 As per 1. Rip it all out back to bare timber frames. Install new wiring where/if needed, extra data points, insulation in the external walls and re-clad with plasterboard,… 1 1130 I think 4 to 6 there is still a decent amount of gain but beyond that there is no need. Most high performing non-passivehaus (still reasonably affordable) houses I've seen… 5 1365 |