Browse Forums Owner Builder Forum Re: Colourbond shed house - SEQLD 12Apr 12, 2016 12:55 pm Visited the council, engineer and independent building surveyor yesterday. Council laid out what they require. The engineer confirmed that there was nothing too hard. Building surveyor had a few points I have to be wary of, but nothing show-stopping. Re: Colourbond shed house - SEQLD 14Apr 12, 2016 3:42 pm Thanks for sharing your plans. It's interesting to see different designs. The long design gives it a unique feel, but it does create quite a bit more external wall area, adding to cost, as well as heat transfer. I also thought that in QLD climate it worked well to have good cross-ventilation, but just looking at your plans, I don't know that you're going to get such good natural air flow paths from one side of the house to the other. I'm impressed at your level of detail in planning out all the usage. But it's also good to build in some flexibility in case circumstances change, or your way of living changes. For example, in the media room, I'd still put a window in it to give it flexibility, and run a blackout curtain over it for media usage. Then the room can be better multi-used down the track, or just to be ventilated, or preheated by the sun during the day. Your bedroom use isn't so common, and I'd wonder if you'll end up wanting to use the same approach for the kids from young all the way to adulthood. I'd think through alternate ways using the space, and check the design of the house is flexible to change to different use patterns if you want to. Re: Colourbond shed house - SEQLD 15Apr 14, 2016 3:03 pm oneJohn Thanks for sharing your plans. It's interesting to see different designs. The long design gives it a unique feel, but it does create quite a bit more external wall area, adding to cost, as well as heat transfer. I also thought that in QLD climate it worked well to have good cross-ventilation, but just looking at your plans, I don't know that you're going to get such good natural air flow paths from one side of the house to the other. I'm impressed at your level of detail in planning out all the usage. But it's also good to build in some flexibility in case circumstances change, or your way of living changes. For example, in the media room, I'd still put a window in it to give it flexibility, and run a blackout curtain over it for media usage. Then the room can be better multi-used down the track, or just to be ventilated, or preheated by the sun during the day. Your bedroom use isn't so common, and I'd wonder if you'll end up wanting to use the same approach for the kids from young all the way to adulthood. I'd think through alternate ways using the space, and check the design of the house is flexible to change to different use patterns if you want to. Thanks for your input oneJohn. The extra wall area is an issue. I am hoping to address it in these ways; - Bury the outer walls about 1m into the ground, - Build the wall with a great deal of insulation, - Make the housing envelope as air-tight as financially practical. This picture should explain the layout; Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ From the outside working in: - Earth coupled AAC (hebel) panels, - rigid foam insulation (30mm), - steel top-hat's, - 200mm c-section shed structure, - rigid foam insulation (30mm), - bulk insulation (200mm), - steel stud wall, and plasterboard. That should see no thermal bridges in the structure and the only areas to address will include, window, door, and penetration details. You are right about the lack of natural cross-ventilation. As a caveate... I would like Passivhaus certification but expect the following plan is where I will suffer. I will be using a series of in-celing ducting to remove stale air from 'dead-zones' and then move it to areas of higher circulation and natural flow. I will use insulated trunking and a fan akin to bilge blowers for this system. It will be designed to run during periods of battery 'float' charge. Thus it will almost be a power surge dump load. That being said, should it be required during periods of low-light or heavy cloud cover, the draw on this system will be low enough to be run without adversely affecting the stand alone power system. The above mentioned system comes as a compromise between maintaining unbroken wall insulation and incorporating earth-ship style design cues. i.e. I have no glass on the southern or western faces. Additionally we have budgeted for a heat recovery ventilation system, and no air-conditioning. as such there will always be a continuous exchange of internal air. Specifically we will draw from the bathrooms, kitchen and media room. The bedrooms will discharge their air to the formal lounge. The master will discharge to the bedrooms. As a result, the master maintains a vacuum and the fireplace in it, heats air for it's own space and the bedrooms. Then the bedroom stale air moves into the formal lounge. As such the formal lounge receives heated, but second-hand air. The living area will not be connected to the system but use the hallway as a duct. We expect the HRV to supply fresh-air to the master, formal lounge, and living area. I discussed the media room with the building surveyor on Friday. He mentioned that a media room requires natural light and ventilation. My immediate response is to not call it a media room anymore. It is a store room. i.e. uninhabited space. However adding a window, a roller shutter, and black-out curtains does provide some normalcy, and it does meet the 'deemed to comply' criteria for the BCA. Deep inside though; I just want a sound proof box. Therefore I must figure out where to compromise. The kids rooms will eventually be changed. But for the short-term they would be fine as they are. We understand that over the years they will have to be separated. By this stage we expect that we would have been able to construct a separate area/building/office for schooling/study. Cheers. Re: Colourbond shed house - SEQLD 16Apr 14, 2016 3:18 pm kreecha Will_I_Am Are you planning on using tradies or doing it yourself? I will get back to you. Will_I_Am; This is the current plan; Slab: - I engage BIL to complete siteworks, - I lay the steel work, - use concretors to complete the pour. Wait 4-6 weeks. - I erect the shed with 2x helpers, - contract out spray foam sealing/insulation. Wait 4-6 weeks. Then fit out of shed is to be attempted. I will pay for: - tiling, - electrical, - plumbing, - bricky for feature walls, - (not sure...) plasterer, - trades to ensure I maintain my timeline. This list is straight out of my head, and not comprehensive, but should provide a good picture of what I am trying to achieve. I can confirm I will; - site manage, - HR, - PR, - WHS, - engage prime contractors, - act as labourer where appropriate, - wet-area fit out, - paint, - financier... etc. Re: Colourbond shed house - SEQLD 18Apr 29, 2016 8:07 pm Good luck with your plans, the long thin house design sounds like it will suit your long, thin block. I also did most of my pricing from the bunnings website, but am hoping to get it second hand when the time comes. I would say that 6 months from start of construction to moving-in is unrealistically optimistic, it COULD be done if everything ran smoothly, but of course it will rain at the worst times and tradies will be unavailable etc. I would also advise to pay the mortgage off ASAP otherwise you are merely going backwards, and build the cheapest house you can, perhaps start with a liveable shed and then do up the internals nicely later down the track. I think that PAAL homes are a bit pricey, and the advantage of building as-you-go as that you can pay for it as you go, when you have the money slowly coming in, instead of needing it as an up-front payment. If you start small, then get it finished, you can always extend afterwards. Have fun playing with your house design, it is something that I always find endlessly fascinating! Coming back to this.... When installing a pressure flashing, what fixings would you use (please give a link) ? Above Pedro said nylon anchors. Anyone have a preferred… 7 10626 Thanks. Yeh ideally that would have been good, but have progressed too far now. Hoping some well placed internal walls fixed up into the battens will provide some… 2 5665 Hi, I am sheeting the inside of a 5.7 x 8m shed with gyprock. Unfortunately the shed wasn't designed for internal cladding but I have been framing it up as strongly as… 0 3595 |