Good question. I probably would be thinking $200 just for supply as I would do the work since it is in 12V DC. It is 6 metres wide so I was thinking about 3-4 lights.
Browse Forums Lighting + Lighting Design Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 164Jan 11, 2016 6:54 am Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 169Jan 12, 2016 9:31 am Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 171Jan 13, 2016 10:01 am Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 177Jan 15, 2016 3:45 pm Voltage drop is nowhere near as much of a problem as it once was with halogen lights. A 5W LED now performs the job of a 35W halogen so your load, and therefore voltage drop, is reduced by a factor of 7. I just used an old roll of Cat5e with 4 of the conductors twisted together for positive and the other 4 connected together for negative, giving a total cross sectional area of around 0.8mm2. Your inventive resin joint should work fine. Just make sure you fill it up good and proper. I'd imagine any old roof and gutter silicone should be fine. Selleys All Clear is probably best as it forms a skin pretty much straight out of the tube so you don't need to worry as much about it running out all over the place. Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 178Jan 18, 2016 11:09 pm Hi 1960sModernistHome, firstly thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise. I'm a first time poster, but been reading a while here (should have posted earlier). Could you please recommend some suitable LED downlights for the plans below (pink markings approx for where lights will be positioned). My guess is we should have had more recessed lighting points in the living area (based on your 3w per m calculation, given its almost 25m2), but it's probably too late to change this now (gyrocking went up last week). Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ I was looking at either:
All points are scheduled to be recessed. The kitchen has a standard ceiling height (2.4m), while the dining and living are raked from a height of about 3.6m down to 2.4m hence the selection for gimble lights. Any recommendations to get out of the predicament would be greatly appreciated. Cheers. Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 179Jan 19, 2016 7:21 am You don't appear to have any lights over the benchtops against the outside walls. When you would be prepping a meal in those areas at night you'll be working in shadow. Stewie Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 180Jan 19, 2016 2:27 pm To be honest, I think you might be a few short. Never fear though, if you go with some dual downlights like these you should be fine, just get them fitted with some good LED lamps and a proper LED driver. You can aim them wherever you like then. http://www.gentechlighting.com.au/produ ... ctangular/ Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 You should check your detail drawings, it may show downpipe within brick pier. 14 14078 I work with owner, he/she is my man on the ground and I instruct them when to visit the site and take photos and I have other tools in the bag. 4 15244 Ardo That is so funny! I wonder how many people know who Larry Haun is these days. I have a couple of young guys we call Mo 1 & Mo 2 who run a crew of 6 boys and… 9 15483 |