Good question. I probably would be thinking $200 just for supply as I would do the work since it is in 12V DC. It is 6 metres wide so I was thinking about 3-4 lights.
Browse Forums Lighting + Lighting Design Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 164Jan 11, 2016 6:54 am Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 169Jan 12, 2016 9:31 am Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 171Jan 13, 2016 10:01 am You could use either of those throughout - no worries. The only reason I suggested using the high glare ones is because they are a cheaper... The bright green ones look like good value. These are also a possibility and would be similar price http://www.greenilluminate.com.au/products/ The Invis16 would be the low glare type, and the Retrofit would be the cheaper wide beam type. Either of the low glare downlights would be fine for the high ceilings because they have reflectors that direct the light down. A pendant would be the best solution for that space, what you proposed would be great as it would throw light all around onto the ceiling and walls, maximising the perception of the space. As for quantity and configuration, this is really more of an aesthetic design rather than true lighting design (from an engineer's point of view at least) so really choose whatever look you like. Either a single large pendant or multiple small ones would be fine, just depends whether you want to keep it simple and minimal or more decorative. Theatre room I would recommend some downlights in the ceiling for general lighting, and then some separately switched low wattage wall lights for watching movies. Maybe something like this - https://www.domuslighting.com.au/interi ... 27%2319965 Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 172Jan 13, 2016 5:25 pm 1960sModernistHome Building4my3tots Bump post... Hope you can review it... Hi 1960MH! Thanks for your advice so far! We have brought these brightgreen LED, https://clearance.brightgreen.com/produ ... downlight/ The 55 degree beam ones with warm white, they are 16w. 1. Your suggestion so far is that they may be too bright? 2. Will they still be considered too bright if we have 2.7m ceiling height or does that only apply for 2.4m high ceilings? 3. In a 4x4.6m room we plan to only have 4 in it, is that enough? 4. Will they be suitable for a bedroom which is 3x3.8m? If not which lights will you recommend! TIA viewtopic.php?f=31&t=75739&p=1299716#p1299716 Hi there, sorry I must have missed your post. I think with 2.7 ceilings your 16w BG's will be fine. They're possibly bordering on too bright but that is mostly subjective. I don'tthink it would be uncomfortable. 4 of them in your 4x4.6m room will be fine In your 3x3.6m room you could get away with probably 3 or even 2. Maybe one over the bed head, one in front of the wardrobe, and one over where a small study desk or something might go. If you're a stickler for symmetry, installing 4 of them would be fine too. If the BG downlights are dimmable then you can always add a dimmer switch later on if you feel they are too bright. Alternatively you could have your electrician wire them so that they are on multiple switches, so you don't need to switch them all on at once. Thanks a lot for your reply! It's been very helpful! viewtopic.php?f=31&t=75739&p=1299716#p1299716 Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 173Jan 14, 2016 4:03 am Hi 1960s The area above our stairs has now become a tall void. It was a fix for a drafting error by our architect. Looks great though not that efficient. Anyho, builder has suggested and we agree this area would benefit from light in terms of a feature or pendant as it's quite high for downlights (maybe 4 meters or more?? The fix wasn't off plan so I don't really know but it's quite tall.. Maybe 4.6) I'm wondering if a pendant then above the dining area down below which is sort of adjacent would be too much? As if you are sitting at the end of the table or looking that way then both would be in your line of sight. Not sure, what do you think? If not I guess you would go with dimmable downlights? Tricky as don't want to provision for a light then not put the downlights in, if I want to decide later. We've chosen these for above the island Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Cheers Leksie Custom knockdown rebuild Newcastle NSW viewtopic.php?t=78271 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 174Jan 15, 2016 1:47 pm 1960sModernistHome No worries. You can get resin filled heat shrink, which when shrunk creates a waterproof join. It only works with smooth cables through, so if you use two core garden cable it's not a smooth circle. You don't need to use conduit but I really do recommend it. Differential ground movement can break or damage the cable as small rocks rub the cable, termites are more likely to damage it, and human damage from shovels etc is more likely. It could be any sort of fairly rigid plastic tubing. Just something to give it a loose protective layer and a bit of room to move. You should be able to pick up 4 metre lengths of 20mm grey conduit for a few bucks and grab a handful of couplings and elbows. You could then save money by using 2 core TPS electrical cable instead of the expensive 12v garden lighting cable, and in my.opinion would be a better solution. You could perform your joints in a 20mm 3 way or 4 way junction box and then fill the junction box right up with silicone With 12v wiring you need to make sure the connections are made well. 12v does not like bad connections because the low voltage simply doesn't have the oomph to get through a "bottleneck". I always twist together and solder, or use a screw connector, terminal block, or splice connector. Twisting together really isn't sufficient in and of itself. Really need that extra pressure of a screw or splice terminal or solder. Hi 1960MH I am haveing a hard time deciding on the best way to waterproof my splice joints, i was hoping to use those resin connectors but i cant find anything that would suit a 3 way conenction for 3.3mm2 wire. So ive thought about making my own resin joints using sillicone, would the following be ok 1. Strip all 3 wires back and twist together. 2. Solder wires together 3. insert into 40mm length of 8mm clear hose (http://www.perthirrigation.com.au/listP ... LEAR+VINYL) 4. fill inside hose with Sillicone 5. tape up with electrical tape.. Also, with sillicone, can any sillicone be used, i was reading somewhere that RTV sillicone is the best way to go which can be bought from bunnings, not the cheapest though: http://www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-310g ... e_p1231042 Thanks Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 175Jan 15, 2016 2:16 pm The big issue with 12V DC is light weight cable and voltage drop. That is the big problem rather that the splicing and joints. Get as heavy a cable you can afford for cable runs. That requirement makes 12v DC lighting expensive for garden works. Voltage drop is enemy of 12v DC. Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 177Jan 15, 2016 3:45 pm Voltage drop is nowhere near as much of a problem as it once was with halogen lights. A 5W LED now performs the job of a 35W halogen so your load, and therefore voltage drop, is reduced by a factor of 7. I just used an old roll of Cat5e with 4 of the conductors twisted together for positive and the other 4 connected together for negative, giving a total cross sectional area of around 0.8mm2. Your inventive resin joint should work fine. Just make sure you fill it up good and proper. I'd imagine any old roof and gutter silicone should be fine. Selleys All Clear is probably best as it forms a skin pretty much straight out of the tube so you don't need to worry as much about it running out all over the place. Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 178Jan 18, 2016 11:09 pm Hi 1960sModernistHome, firstly thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise. I'm a first time poster, but been reading a while here (should have posted earlier). Could you please recommend some suitable LED downlights for the plans below (pink markings approx for where lights will be positioned). My guess is we should have had more recessed lighting points in the living area (based on your 3w per m calculation, given its almost 25m2), but it's probably too late to change this now (gyrocking went up last week). Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ I was looking at either:
All points are scheduled to be recessed. The kitchen has a standard ceiling height (2.4m), while the dining and living are raked from a height of about 3.6m down to 2.4m hence the selection for gimble lights. Any recommendations to get out of the predicament would be greatly appreciated. Cheers. Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 179Jan 19, 2016 7:21 am You don't appear to have any lights over the benchtops against the outside walls. When you would be prepping a meal in those areas at night you'll be working in shadow. Stewie Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 180Jan 19, 2016 2:27 pm To be honest, I think you might be a few short. Never fear though, if you go with some dual downlights like these you should be fine, just get them fitted with some good LED lamps and a proper LED driver. You can aim them wherever you like then. http://www.gentechlighting.com.au/produ ... ctangular/ Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 You should check your detail drawings, it may show downpipe within brick pier. 14 14099 I work with owner, he/she is my man on the ground and I instruct them when to visit the site and take photos and I have other tools in the bag. 4 15265 Ardo That is so funny! I wonder how many people know who Larry Haun is these days. I have a couple of young guys we call Mo 1 & Mo 2 who run a crew of 6 boys and… 9 15511 |