Browse Forums Lighting + Lighting Design Re: My house light plans 8Jul 18, 2015 8:04 pm TenaciousB icywater TenaciousB The one on top of the stairs will be hard to replace when you need to, unless it's a pendant. May I ask if you use a lighting designer or pretty much decide yourself? Cause not a lot of houses r using a brightgreen lighting. I designed with light a shop help. They offer me ruby down light but I want brightgreen I can get it for around $70 each. Thanks icywater. $70 each is very good. which light shop did u buy this from. From a local shop. Re: My house light plans 9Jul 21, 2015 12:49 pm Anyone know the difference between brightgreen d900 v1.5 and v1.8? edit I was able to track down the spec for version 1.5 and 1.8. They basically the same. the v1.8 D900 is 2 mm shorter and use 16.5w instead of 15.7w like V1.5 Re: My house light plans 10Jul 22, 2015 4:33 pm Not a bad design there! I think you've covered it nicely Kind Regards, Kristin Lighting Expert Phone -1300 798 220 Email - service@golights.com.au Website - http://www.golights.com.au Re: My house light plans 12Jul 23, 2015 8:08 am Looks ok to me. The only thing I would suggest perhaps changing would be to shift the four downlights in your family room off the coffered section closer to the walls, so you get some light on the walls. Otherwise you will have very bright spot in the middle of the floor and dark walls, which is generally something we avoid in lighting design. If it were my garage I would probably go for two 2x28w or 2x36w fluorescents with diffusers - but that's because I am a tinkerer. If you just park your car in there and get out, the two 18w battens should be fine. Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: My house light plans 13Jul 23, 2015 12:06 pm 1960sModernistHome If it were my garage I would probably go for two 2x28w or 2x36w fluorescents with diffusers - but that's because I am a tinkerer. If you just park your car in there and get out, the two 18w battens should be fine. Thanks for the advices. I will get higher power fluorescent. Shifting the down lights will cost me $500 administration cost. I think i can angle the down light out that way a bit if I get a bright spot in the middle. Re: My house light plans 14Jul 24, 2015 12:42 pm I'd delete the feature light from the theatre room and separate switch front and back lights in pairs so you can have lights on at the back of the room while viewing, but not in front. I'd probably also delete either oyster or downlights in the main bedroom, can't think why I would need both. I'd also reconsider the vanity lights in bathrooms, I find it really hard to shave effectively with a light behind my head pointing down. Our bathrooms have multiple downlights, but one is over each vanity. I didn't design it, but our previous house only had an overhead light and I ended up getting a parky to install an over vanity light Re: My house light plans 15Jul 24, 2015 1:07 pm I tend to agree. I have put LED downlights above the vanity in our bathroom and the shadowing is annoying when shaving. My wife also said it's annoying for make up etc. We are in the process of renovating the ensuite now and I will be putting pendants over the mirror that give a nice "glow" of light all around rather than a directional beam like a downlight. When positioning lights, especially downlights, you really need to think about where you actually need the most amount of light. A lot of people just put them in the middle of the room, or in symmetrical grids. For example, in the OP's bathroom there are two downlights in the middle of the room. I look at that and think to myself "when I'm using the bathroom, where do I need the most amount of light?". The answer to that is basically over the vanity. I don't need much light to have a shower or go to the toilet, and there is no real point in blasting light down on to the floor. So what you could do is install both of the downlights over the vanity. Because a bathroom is such a small room, you will get a lot of reflected light and you'll probably find that it will light up the room enough without any additional lighting. Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: My house light plans 16Jul 24, 2015 7:15 pm Spottiswoode I'd delete the feature light from the theatre room and separate switch front and back lights in pairs so you can have lights on at the back of the room while viewing, but not in front. I'd probably also delete either oyster or downlights in the main bedroom, can't think why I would need both. I put the feature light in the bed because later down the track if I want 1 I can't not have it because main bed is under the slab. I like feature light, I can always turn of the down and leave the feature light on while watching TV. Hi - thanks for your reply. Yes I think 'Ill go for whitish with very speckly bits rather than pure white something like this. PS was actually 2008 I built the… 2 12063 That was always going to be a challenge and a test of patience. Full marks to your mate. Did you discuss the wet area near the trampoline? 16 17613 It might be a bit darker in the mornings but the light is still light, so you should be getting it. Similar to what you see from your western windows 3 20205 |