Browse Forums General Discussion Re: Chemical underpinning and soil stabilization 3Jan 16, 2013 8:57 am Where you are coming from is where you are going to... Re: Chemical underpinning and soil stabilization 5Feb 06, 2013 8:04 pm Our Build Here: viewtopic.php?f=31&t=74037&p=1255246#p1255246 Re: Chemical underpinning and soil stabilization 6Apr 14, 2013 1:32 pm Our Build Here: viewtopic.php?f=31&t=74037&p=1255246#p1255246 Re: Chemical underpinning and soil stabilization 11Feb 18, 2015 9:28 pm 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Re: Chemical underpinning and soil stabilization 18May 08, 2015 6:44 pm Where you are coming from is where you are going to... Re: Chemical underpinning and soil stabilization 20May 15, 2015 10:12 am Hi, Update. I went with Urathane Solutions quote of just on $29k. it is a large odd shaped house ( 25 yo) on very reactive soil on almost top of hill with a 1.5m cutin The house has cracked in 5 corners plus an large central internal (not on outside wall) fireplace as well as a verandah slab that had dropped. Mark and his team Luke and Michael were great. They were here for the last 2 weeks and managed to inject under all the locations and level all the brick work. Most of the cracks closed almost completely ( really only a hair line left) and in the worst corner the crack closed but the brick work had twisted slightly when the wall had droped so it did not go back square in the corner. They put a pully system on it and pulled it back in place looks almost new and once cleaned up and re rendered will be perfect. The one crack that did not close the corner was stabilised and leveled and the 2-3mm crack left Mark showed me and I have filled with some Urathane they gave me. The fire place inside they drilled about 8x 20mm holes through the timber floor on one side and the tiles on the other side these are about 500-600 apart and put their rods through and pumped under it foundations to stabilise it they patched the holes so under the carpet/timber side was fine the tiles i am replacing anyway but the patched holes look fine for now. if you wanted to keep your tiles you would have to replace the drilled ones. We were surprised how little mess/dust they created inside. The cracks inside did not all close from the walls being done outside so Mark got under the house and found that about 4-5 central stumps 3-4 meters from the walls had moved from the original soil movement so he used 5 ton jacks to lift the beams closing the cracks and then packing the tops of the stumps and letting the jacks down all cracks stayed completely closed whereas some you could put your finger in before. With all this movement a couple of doors had been previously fitted to allow for the past soil movement so they were now very stiff to open/close. The guys took them off then shaved the bottom slight so they all now work perfectly. The verandah proved to be a problem although their injection system lifted it easily the slab got stuck on something and with the electronic measuring system they use to 100th of a mm we could see the slab start to bow slightly in the centre they stopped any pressure and it came back but they did not want to pump anymore. We could not see anything that was stopping it in the very confined space. So to fix the problem to level it without any damage they took the edge bullnose tiles off (only breaking one of about 50 or so) cleaned them for re use and cut the bricks to level with the slab with outer edge brick wall. So they have just left today where all the work was done out side was brick paving they took up the bricks where they worked and put them back when they finished so now there is no indication they have been there. The stuff looks strange when they do it as some bubbles out of places you dont expect as it is following the chanels in the soil and filling all these before they start to lift, this is part of the stabilisation closing the access for future water. As Mark explains in my case over the long term water will make new chanels in the soil somewhere so you have to address the water issues by having adequate stormwater system and a possibly separate grate/sump system and all paving sloping away from the house so water runs away not towards. You can also put down pond liner under the paving up to the house walls to stop water as well. Urathane Solutions who came over from Adelaide ( i am in Mt Eliza Melbourne) guys were excellent to work with and did a great job. They travel all over Australia. so far so good glad its all done.. Now i have to address the stormwater and my cracked fibreglass pool damn reactive soil. Hi Building Expert, Thank you for the feedback, much appreciated, there is also a code of conduct for building surveyors which they need to follow as well. I am looking… 4 3659 Thanks for your reply. I will just wait and see I guess. Trying to get some more information from our builder. 9 30236 I am not sure whether Perth has its own way of doing things in regards to this. Most of Perth has class A (sandy soil), except for some areas near rivers or hills. 2 13063 |