Browse Forums Lighting + Lighting Design Re: Downlight options - going as eco as possible 8Nov 27, 2008 8:47 pm Thanks good tip. My electrician actually dropped off two downlights (that have been converted to being able to be pugged in to a power point - he's so sweet) so I could compare a hallogen and a fluorescent (warm and cool globe). I plugged the fluro's in and the light was like a candle so unplugged it in disgust - but now I'm thinking I might not have let them warm up. I think they get brighter after a while. So I could take my plug in downlights to a lighting shop and ask to compare a hallogen lamp. hmmm, may be a weekend project.
Is 11watt cfl the brightest they come in? Anita Re: Downlight options - going as eco as possible 10Nov 27, 2008 10:46 pm Anita,
Yes, let the CFL warm up for at least ten minutes. Then switch it off and switch the halogen on. This is the only way to compare. You can flick between the two fairly quickly as the CFL will take a minute to cool down. Maybe leave them both on and cover one up to compare. We all want to know the result! Cheers, Casa Demolition August 2009, Construction Started September 2009, Completed December 2010 Re: Downlight options - going as eco as possible 11Nov 30, 2008 9:49 pm Elzbeth Hi! I want downlights - but I am trying to minimise where they are used. I have been told that with eco downlights (whatever that means - feel free to shed the light on that one!) you need more. I'm just wondering what eco options are out there. Is LED the best way? If so, are costs prohibitive? Looking forwward to answers!!! Thanks! Some articles about lighting: http://www.elflist.com/ http://www.energy-toolbox.vic.gov.au/in ... need?.html http://www.heat.net.au/action-advice-pa ... me_web.pdf http://www.yourhome.gov.au/technical/fs63.html http://www1.sedo.energy.wa.gov.au/pages/lightopt.asp The efficiency in which a light fitting converts energy into visible light is determined by its luminous efficiency. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luminous_efficiency LEDS > Fluorescent > Incandescent However, this can be concentrated into a narrow beam or a diffused wide beam. This affects its illuminance which is the amount of light per unit area. (measured in lux). Downlights by nature of their position cannot spread the beam as wide and you need more to provide the same level of illumination. They are also harder to insulate because a gap needs to be left to prevent the material catching fire. This is also true for CFLs downlights. The science and physiology of lighting is quite complex. It needs to be bright enough to see and perform tasks but not too bright to be fatiguing or to lose contrast. Task lighting needs higher levels of illuminance than general lighting but should not be in line of sight to the operator or cast shadows onto the surface. Spot lighting uses light and shadow to accentuate specific items. General lighting requires lower diffused levels. Other considerations are cost, longevity, colour saturation and cycle time. CFLS don't like to be turned on and off frequently. Follow this thread: http://forums.envirotalk.com.au/Energy- ... l=Lighting Re: Downlight options - going as eco as possible 12Jan 08, 2009 2:33 pm Someone tried to tell me that LED lights were the wrong colour for indoors and that this meant rooms looked "wrong", but I was very suss about this claim considering there's loads of commercial offerings designed for homes.
I am also hoping to go for the most ECO option. Re: Downlight options - going as eco as possible 13Jan 08, 2009 8:54 pm It's all about expectations.
LED is different, so are fluros, Halogen and incandesant. yes the colour is different, but what colour do you like? Sunset, sunrise, midday, 10am, 11am or any other sunlight colours? Re: Downlight options - going as eco as possible 15Jan 10, 2009 7:44 am 14W CFL is roughly equivalent to a 75W incandescent in overall light output...
The problem is when you try and compare CFL's to low voltage downlights... To get the same working surface light it's around a 3 to 1 ratio required... i.e 3 cfl's where 1 halogen would have done... You do the math, 3 cfl 11w, or 1 35 low voltage halogen.... Hmm I know I'd rather have just 3 lights over my kitchen benchtop than 9!! Electrical Engineer... Don't hold that against me... And keen owner builder... Mainly the building part!! Re: Downlight options - going as eco as possible 16Jan 10, 2009 11:23 am A 15W CFL should give about the same light output as a 50W halogen (or 35W IRC halogen. By CFL I mean one of those lights that is roughly the size of a normal lightbulb.
The problem comes with the GU10 CFL that are the same size as downlights. Due to the very small size you just don't get the efficiency needed. So you end up needing, as chuth mentioned, three times as many lights. If you want the best energy efficient option available today, nothing beats a 15W CFL in a larger than GU10 size. These are one-for-one replacement for halogen downlights. That is, you'll need one for every 4 square metres of floor space (4 for a 4 x 4 m room). Demolition August 2009, Construction Started September 2009, Completed December 2010 You can wash over existing pavers with 10% solution of water and hydrochloric acid, then wash off. The acid will provide for required bond key with new concrete. 1 37485 0 12518 Hi so sorry for the late reply. I already contacted them and they wouldn't tell me instead they tried to get me to talk to one of their home coordinators and I'm not… 2 6680 |