Plumbing behind fridge - affect the depth?

First_Timer_Ray · Jul 24, 2013 2:23 pm

Our fridge cavity is 705mm deep which I assume is a standard depth, but as we had a water tap put at the back during our build, the actual depth is only 650mm because the tap sticks out into the space. We are currently in the process of thinking about a new fridge (our current one is almost 10 years old and doesn't have water connected) but our fridge currently is only 620mm deep whereas the new (bigger) models seem to be much deeper now.
Could anyone tell me how they get on with a plumbed fridge when most I have seen tend to be around 740mm deep. Does this mean it will stick out 90mm or do the fridges have a niche cut out of the back to accommodate the tap?
Also, the dimensions state that the cabinet depth of the fridge is about 600mm, so does this mean it should not be recessed more than this (I assume the rest is the door and handle depth)? And if so, then wouldn't it stick out even more (almost 15cm)?

EmyN · Jul 24, 2013 4:31 pm

I'm interested in this reply too. Sorry can't help OP.

mattandkatehome · Jul 24, 2013 5:10 pm

Hi, I am still in quote stage. I would beilive that all double door fridges arefairly larger in size. Its not only about the taps but there needs to be a place for the filters which are about the size of a 1 litre large coke bottle. Please let me know when you have worked this out. Matt

First_Timer_Ray · Jul 24, 2013 5:31 pm

I'm actually glad I'm not the only one. I have tried googling everything I can think of and the best I could come up with was a US site that mentioned needing to have the doors out further than the surround (so only the cabinet of the fridge is inside the niche) to enable the doors to open properly (more than 90 degrees). If this is the case, then it is going to stick out almost 15cm, which is a fair amount, and the issue is also that our fridge space is opposite the end of my island bench so the front of the fridge space is a walkway into the kitchen. Add to this our fridge space is on the wall that leads to the dining area (open plan) so every time I look towards the kitchen I am going to notice just how far it sticks out (as will our guests).
Would be great to hear from someone who has one of these type of fridges and what the answer is.

Ca6leguy · Jul 24, 2013 6:05 pm

I actually considered this initially. But after thinking about the pipe which will affect the depth of the cavity and also the cost of maintaining it, filters etc. I decided to removed it. Not that hard to put a bottle of water in the fridge.

xxkatxx · Jul 24, 2013 6:21 pm

pretty sure you will find most fridges these days have a flat sheet of metal on the back. we raised our plumbing and powerpoint to 2 metres high so they were above the fridge for this reason but we haven't moved in yet so don't know if it really was essential to do. If your fridge does happen to stick out a bit you probably won't notice after a while and it would probably only be the door depth? 705mm is deeper than what ours will be!

CuttingEdgeKitchens · Jul 24, 2013 6:57 pm

I normally suggest that the power point should be above the fridge but the tap should be in the cabinet beside the fridge. This way you can turn it on and off without pulling the fridge out should there be a leak and it doesn't push the fridge out any further.

First_Timer_Ray I would have your tap move from behind the fridge otherwise it will stick out to far and look strange.

EmyN · Jul 24, 2013 8:22 pm

CuttingEdgeKitchens

I normally suggest that the power point should be above the fridge but the tap should be in the cabinet beside the fridge. This way you can turn it on and off without pulling the fridge out should there be a leak and it doesn't push the fridge out any further.

This is really great advice, thankyou CEK. How does the plumbing get through to the back of the fridge? Through a hole in the cabinet wall? And then I presume the fridge only needs to be forward a small amount for the pipe?

Hang on.... my fridge is next to our pantry (not cabinets) so I wonder how I'd get the plumbing through that wall which I think is a proper plaster wall.... bummer. Any other suggestions?? It does have overhead cabinets so maybe I can get the tap put in the overhead cabinet above the fridge (along with the powerpoint??) and run down a hole from there? What do you reckon?

Caxam · Jul 24, 2013 8:42 pm

We are getting our tap in the cabinet beside the Fridge, with a hole large enough for a hose coming out the side. This way the wife can get to the tap should we have an emergency.

Power point will be above the fridge cavity so we can have the fridge set back leaving the front as flush as possible to the rest of the cabinetry.

delatite13 · Jul 24, 2013 9:23 pm

Hi all

Here's a pic of the set up we had in our previous home behind our double door fridge/freezer.
Sorry don't have one of the new house, but it is very similar.

The fridge water hose connects in just to the left of the filter housing.
The line heading into the side of the cupboard goes through to an additional filtered water tap we had mounted at the kitchen sink.

Our fridge's original filter is actually housed inside the fridge, but is quite small and only lasts 6 months between changes and is very expensive to replace.
We opted for an exterior version, which is much larger, more efficient filtering, lasts longer and is cheaper to replace. Also it doubles as the benchtop water tap filter.

We measured the depth of the cavity and ours is 920mm deep, but it would have been OK shallower, there is plenty of room behind the fridge.

CuttingEdgeKitchens · Jul 25, 2013 7:32 am

EmyN

CuttingEdgeKitchens

I normally suggest that the power point should be above the fridge but the tap should be in the cabinet beside the fridge. This way you can turn it on and off without pulling the fridge out should there be a leak and it doesn't push the fridge out any further.

This is really great advice, thankyou CEK. How does the plumbing get through to the back of the fridge? Through a hole in the cabinet wall? And then I presume the fridge only needs to be forward a small amount for the pipe?

Hang on.... my fridge is next to our pantry (not cabinets) so I wonder how I'd get the plumbing through that wall which I think is a proper plaster wall.... bummer. Any other suggestions?? It does have overhead cabinets so maybe I can get the tap put in the overhead cabinet above the fridge (along with the powerpoint??) and run down a hole from there? What do you reckon?

Its still very very easy to do through a plaster board wall!

The water pipe is very small and doesn't require a big hole. Yes you could also easily put it in the overhead, just depends on if there is a void behind the fridge overhead cabinet. Get your plumber in to look at your situation, he will tell you the best way to do it.

First_Timer_Ray · Jul 25, 2013 8:24 am

Thanks for the pic Delatite. Our fridge cavity is similar except the water tap is much lower on the left hand side and ours is fully plastered complete with skirting boards inside it. Great idea abut the external filter on the line.
CEK - it would be almost impossible to move the tap to the side as our cavity is only 910mm (width of plaster, not including the skirtings which reduces the width to 900mm) and would impact dramatically on the number of fridges that would fit (reducing it to 855mm wide). I would rather the fridge stick out a bit than not fit at all.
It still doesn't answer my question about the dimensions of the fridge - cabinet depth of 600mm - does that mean it SHOULD stick out the rest of the depth?
How far SHOULD a fridge stick out?

Stewie D · Jul 25, 2013 9:24 am

As per what CEK says. Filters/taps etc should be in the cupboard next to the fridge unless like Delatite you have a deep recess which most people don't.
Exactly the same principle for a dishwasher or rangehood ( most ).
This not only lets you able to push the fridge nearly right back against the rear wall of the recess but lets you access either the filter or tap etc for maintenance without having to pull the fridge out to do so.
The pipe the plumber uses is something like a 1/4" annealed copper enabling it to bend easily without kinking.
The hole in the cupboard next to it shouldn't be any more than 20mm.
The front of the cupboard doors next to or above the fridge should be flush with the back of the fridge doors. That allows them to open all the way without binding on the cupboard doors or panels.
If you only have cupboard depth of 600mm then that is something that should have been discussed with the kitchen designer at the planning stage. and your fridge is just going to stick out 150-200mm, not a good look.

Stewie

First_Timer_Ray · Jul 25, 2013 9:27 pm

Stewie D

If you only have cupboard depth of 600mm then that is something that should have been discussed with the kitchen designer at the planning stage. and your fridge is just going to stick out 150-200mm, not a good look.

Stewie

I think maybe you are misunderstanding. Our fridge cavity is 705mm deep, but the tap reduces the available depth to 650mm.
The specs on the fridge states that the "fridge cabinet depth is 600mm" but the "total depth is 740mm". I am assuming that means the body of the fridge is 600mm deep, and the rest (140mm) is made up of the door depth and the handle depth? If that is the case, you mention that the back of the fridge doors should be flush with the surrounding (which in our case is plastered walls), so does that mean the fridge is supposed to stick out 140mm?
If the doors don't need to be external to the cabinets, it will protrude 90mm based on our home.

I guess either way I would just get used to it... It has to look better than the little old white fridge that we have now.

Vatche · Jul 25, 2013 11:15 pm

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Though cannot be seen now, our water outlet is behind the small cabinets above the fridge, so it takes no space at all.

We also selected a fridge that has filter inside the unit, within the ice-maker box.

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CuttingEdgeKitchens · Jul 26, 2013 8:44 am

In most kitchens the thickness of the fridge doors protrudes from the face of the cabinets. Most fridge doors need to open to about 135degrees to allow the vegie baskets to open properly. With the doors flush with the cabinets the vegie baskets just don't open.

Without seeing you fridge specs I would assume 600mm is the fridge carcass depth and the 140mm is the thickness of the door and handle giving a total of 740mm

rogerinaus · Jul 26, 2013 10:05 am

I'm just surprised how behind Australia is in many building practices. Installing one of these recessed boxes behind the fridge is the standard in the US.

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First_Timer_Ray · Jul 26, 2013 11:59 am

Vatche, how do you find opening the left hand side door? Is seems due to the plaster wall that it doesn't have the same clearance that the right side would. We also have cabinets above that have a void behind ( for ventilation) so I guess we could get the tap moved.

Roger, that tap-in-wall thing is brilliant. Why don't we have them?
I suppose I could, but seeing as all the plumbing is done I would prefer if we could just connect it up without changing what's already there.

I can't believe we've been in out "new" house over 5 years now.

CuttingEdgeKitchens · Jul 26, 2013 12:54 pm

rogerinaus

I'm just surprised how behind Australia is in many building practices. Installing one of these recessed boxes behind the fridge is the standard in the US.

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I believe its backward and wrong putting the tap behind the fridge!

It should always go in a cabinet beside or above the fridge with easy access should you ever need to turn the water off in a hurry! Dishwashers are the same, the tap should always go in the sink cabinet. The flexible piping they use on fridges and dishwashers can easily blow off or develop a leak and you want to be able to turn the water off without having to pull the fridge completely out. A lot of fridges once fully loaded up can be a pain to pull out especially when the front legs are wound down do disengage the front wheels!

Any decent plumber would put the tap in a cabinet!

Stewie D · Jul 26, 2013 3:36 pm

***************************** ( comment edited by kexkez Forum Support Member)
Any plumber will install a tap as CEK and I have said previously in the cabinet beside the dishwasher or fridge simply so that it is easy to tun off in an emergency and to make sure the full depth of the recess for the appliance is able to be used.
Note : kitchen sinks and vanity bowls are hard plumbed in ( mostly ) but dishwashers just have a small tap with the hose connected to it.
Fridges are pretty much the same.
And for the record I don't believe we are behind the rest of the world when it comes to building practices at all except for maybe insulation and solar.
Our plumbing and electrical standards are way higher than Europe and the US.

Stewie