Browse Forums Lighting + Lighting Design Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 41Oct 13, 2015 2:40 pm What specific do you recommend for bathroom lighting , domus 13 w ok here? Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 42Oct 14, 2015 7:27 am Yeah two of those would be plenty for an average to large bathroom. I would put another light over the mirror though. Probably a pendant or wall light. Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 43Oct 14, 2015 8:21 am Hi, Thanks for offering the help. We are planning our double floor house. We got two LED light options to choose from. I would really love to hear your advice. LED CLASSIC Globe: 9 watts LED with anti-glare lens Lumens: 520lm warn white 3000K Size:72mm D Lifespan: approx. 30,000h Beam angle: 60 degree Light area: 1-1.5 meters Other: GU10 B-9 240volts LED Wide Beam Globe Fitting: 13 watt LED sealed down light Lumens: 860lm warm white 3000K Size 110m D Lifespan: approx. 50,000h Beam angle: 90 degree Light area: 2-2.5 meters Many thanks. Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 44Oct 14, 2015 3:28 pm 1960sModernistHome Yeah two of those would be plenty for an average to large bathroom. I would put another light over the mirror though. Probably a pendant or wall light. Thanks so much. Similar vein for kitchen, we will have pendants over island and downlights over bench ( installed by kitchen company). Do we work off the same calc of 3 watt per Sq/m or use less due to the other lights. Area is about 24 sq/m. Custom knockdown rebuild Newcastle NSW viewtopic.php?t=78271 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 45Oct 14, 2015 7:05 pm Leksie5000 1960sModernistHome Yeah two of those would be plenty for an average to large bathroom. I would put another light over the mirror though. Probably a pendant or wall light. Thanks so much. Similar vein for kitchen, we will have pendants over island and downlights over bench ( installed by kitchen company). Do we work off the same calc of 3 watt per Sq/m or use less due to the other lights. Area is about 24 sq/m. Custom knockdown rebuild Newcastle NSW viewtopic.php?t=78271 Check out the last page of your build thread, I squeezed in a quick design markup this morning Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 46Oct 14, 2015 9:40 pm 1960sModernistHome Leksie5000 1960sModernistHome Yeah two of those would be plenty for an average to large bathroom. I would put another light over the mirror though. Probably a pendant or wall light. Thanks so much. Similar vein for kitchen, we will have pendants over island and downlights over bench ( installed by kitchen company). Do we work off the same calc of 3 watt per Sq/m or use less due to the other lights. Area is about 24 sq/m. Custom knockdown rebuild Newcastle NSW viewtopic.php?t=78271 Check out the last page of your build thread, I squeezed in a quick design markup this morning Thank you so so much, greatly appreciated.. And your appreciation of the custom route (it's definitely a lot more work). Cheers. Custom knockdown rebuild Newcastle NSW viewtopic.php?t=78271 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 47Oct 14, 2015 10:59 pm 1960s I was hoping you had some suggestions on my lighting plan. There are a couple of wiring changes I wish I did at prestart but I'll try make do with what I have. I will be putting dimmers pretty much everywhere. I have already ordered a few Domus 13w Downlights for bedromos and their deepset downlights for living areas My markup on my plan is here. https://goo.gl/photos/hVrqp5S8jCXfMkYk9 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 48Oct 15, 2015 6:17 pm quickdraw 1960s I was hoping you had some suggestions on my lighting plan. There are a couple of wiring changes I wish I did at prestart but I'll try make do with what I have. I will be putting dimmers pretty much everywhere. I have already ordered a few Domus 13w Downlights for bedromos and their deepset downlights for living areas My markup on my plan is here. https://goo.gl/photos/hVrqp5S8jCXfMkYk9 Looks ok to me, not much I can add to that. Good downlight selections. As for wall lights etc, really comes down to aesthetics & personal taste. Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 50Oct 16, 2015 9:48 am Mellily Hi, Thanks for offering the help. We are planning our double floor house. We got two LED light options to choose from. I would really love to hear your advice. LED CLASSIC Globe: 9 watts LED with anti-glare lens Lumens: 520lm warn white 3000K Size:72mm D Lifespan: approx. 30,000h Beam angle: 60 degree Light area: 1-1.5 meters Other: GU10 B-9 240volts LED Wide Beam Globe Fitting: 13 watt LED sealed down light Lumens: 860lm warm white 3000K Size 110m D Lifespan: approx. 50,000h Beam angle: 90 degree Light area: 2-2.5 meters Many thanks. Hi there Without a brand and model it is difficult for me to give specific advice, but in general terms I would probably advise you to go with the anti glare version in your living areas, and the wide beams in corridors, toilet, bathroom, bedrooms etc. You would probably only need 2 or 3 of the wide beams in a bedroom, 1 in toilet, 2 in bathroom, and one every 4 or 5 metres in a corridor. Make sure you place them in front of linen cupboards etc because that's where you need the light. You will probably need to place the anti-glare ones every 2 -2.5 metres in your living areas, kitchen, dining etc. I would also use the anti-glare ones in outdoor areas, front patios etc. Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 51Oct 16, 2015 10:00 am 1960sModernistHome Mellily Hi, Thanks for offering the help. We are planning our double floor house. We got two LED light options to choose from. I would really love to hear your advice. LED CLASSIC Globe: 9 watts LED with anti-glare lens Lumens: 520lm warn white 3000K Size:72mm D Lifespan: approx. 30,000h Beam angle: 60 degree Light area: 1-1.5 meters Other: GU10 B-9 240volts LED Wide Beam Globe Fitting: 13 watt LED sealed down light Lumens: 860lm warm white 3000K Size 110m D Lifespan: approx. 50,000h Beam angle: 90 degree Light area: 2-2.5 meters Many thanks. Hi there Without a brand and model it is difficult for me to give specific advice, but in general terms I would probably advise you to go with the anti glare version in your living areas, and the wide beams in corridors, toilet, bathroom, bedrooms etc. You would probably only need 2 or 3 of the wide beams in a bedroom, 1 in toilet, 2 in bathroom, and one every 4 or 5 metres in a corridor. Make sure you place them in front of linen cupboards etc because that's where you need the light. You will probably need to place the anti-glare ones every 2 -2.5 metres in your living areas, kitchen, dining etc. I would also use the anti-glare ones in outdoor areas, front patios etc. Can i ask what is an anti-glare lens? Is that the opaque diffuser? Thanks build thread: viewtopic.php?t=78328 Orpheus Building the Metricon Glendale 38|Sydney Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 52Oct 16, 2015 7:44 pm No the ones with an opaque diffuser are generally high glare. Anti glare means the LED chip is set back into the light with a reflector, and there is a cut-off angle between your eyes and the chip. They usually have a clear glass lens or no lens at all. This is a cross-section of a low glare LED downlight In an opalised diffuser, the glare of the LED is not "cut off" as the LEDs are directly behind the diffuser. It reduces the intensity but is still very high glare compared to the cut-off type Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 53Oct 16, 2015 10:15 pm 1960sModernistHome No the ones with an opaque diffuser are generally high glare. Anti glare means the LED chip is set back into the light with a reflector, and there is a cut-off angle between your eyes and the chip. They usually have a clear glass lens or no lens at all. This is a cross-section of a low glare LED downlight In an opalised diffuser, the glare of the LED is not "cut off" as the LEDs are directly behind the diffuser. It reduces the intensity but is still very high glare compared to the cut-off type Thanks Mr Lighting Wizard! I spoke to Clipsal about the downlights that our builder uses and they said their downlights are anti-glared because of the opaque diffuser plus the leds are recessed. But of course they would say that?? Orpheus Building the Metricon Glendale 38|Sydney Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 54Oct 17, 2015 6:17 pm In their defence, they are probably just repeating what they're being told. Clipsal make great light switches, power points etc, but they aren't lighting specialists... I'll try and explain glare by analogy: When you're driving late in the afternoon into the sun, you pull down your sun visor to cut out the sun from your field of vision, thus eliminating glare. If you replaced your sun visor with a piece of frosted glass or opal acrylic, the glare would be somewhat reduced as opposed to looking directly at the sun, but it would still be quite glarey. The principle is essentially the same. Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 55Oct 17, 2015 6:25 pm Many people ask me why I am such a nazi when it comes to glare. Glare in an office or work environment is mainly what causes headaches as it makes your eye strain and constantly change focus. In exterior lighting, glare is a significant cause of complaints from neighbouring properties. In roadway lighting and vehicle lighting, glare is what causes distraction and dazzling. In a circulation space, lounge area or residential installation, glare reduces the visual comfort of the space, and the glare draws your eye, leading to the space feeling smaller. Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 56Oct 18, 2015 4:40 pm Hi, I have another question about stair void light. We have 2.7m high ceilings on both levels. Our stair way void is 1830mm in total with the staircase itself about 1000mm (aprox yet to be built!). The stair is in the entrance and has a landing and return. Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Are there any rules or guides about where to place stair void light does it go in the landing, in the middle of the whole stair way or the middle open void (830mm)? How long should the hang be (from ceiling to end of the light). If it placed in the middle of the open void Would it be odd to have a long hanging pendant lights that goes pass the first storey floor? Any guide on the size of light? Really struggling with this one! Appreciate your advice Btw I had asked your feedback on might lighting plan on this thread and was able to incorporate a lot of changes (LED lights under cupboards, three way light switch in master etc) as a variation to the electrical plan. Really stoked! Thank you so much for your help viewtopic.php?t=78985 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 57Oct 18, 2015 5:51 pm There are no "rules" really when it come to decorative lighting... it's almost entirely subjective. The only things I would remind you to keep in mind: - Install in a place and height where you can safely put a small ladder to change the lamp if it blows (i.e. over the landing or flat ground, not over the stairs if you can avoid it) - Try and use lighting that provides decent light on the stair treads, but also throws some light on the ceiling and walls to accentuate the height of the space - Perhaps a cluster of 2 or3 pendants might be an option, hung in the middle of the void at differing heights so you get lighting on the lower level as well as the upper level stairs Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 58Oct 18, 2015 6:19 pm 1960s you are doing an amazing job on here for all of us who are indecisive or overwhelmed. I just looked at leskies electrical plan and it is very well thought out and considered. Whilst I have not asked directly for help you have assisted me with your general advise and I, for one, just wanted to give my appreciation. Using my LG-G4 to bring you this update. Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 59Oct 18, 2015 6:38 pm No worries. I realise that lighting and electrical services in general cause a lot of headaches for people. It's second nature for me so it's no trouble to help out Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 You should check your detail drawings, it may show downpipe within brick pier. 14 14099 I work with owner, he/she is my man on the ground and I instruct them when to visit the site and take photos and I have other tools in the bag. 4 15265 Ardo That is so funny! I wonder how many people know who Larry Haun is these days. I have a couple of young guys we call Mo 1 & Mo 2 who run a crew of 6 boys and… 9 15511 |