Browse Forums Lighting + Lighting Design Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 242Mar 23, 2016 2:07 pm Hi 1960s, I just read the whole thread and so grateful for all your advice. Thank you for being so helpful. My question is totally separate to home building though, but more for a tattoo studio/art space. What kind of LED down light would you recommend and how many etc? Obviously we want the area to be bright, preferably with no blue undertones so that our work with colour on skin is more accurate, and we don't want glare. The total working area is 27m2 (8.12m x 3.35m) and we have split them up into three sections. 1) Waiting Area (3m x 2m = 6m2) 2) Tattoo Area (3.35mx4.32m = 15m2) 3) Art drawing space (3.35mx1.8m=6m2) Thank you! Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 243Mar 23, 2016 2:34 pm Given that you do (hopefully!) very precise and detailed work, it’s really important that you choose good lighting – but I’m sure you already know that! An equally important thing for you would be to choose a light source with a very high Colour Rendering Index (CRI). This is a number between 0 and 100, and it relates to how well the colour spectrum appears under the light compared to how well it appears under incandescent light. Most fluorescent and LED lights are around 80, which means colours appear 80 accurate underneath them. The lights I am about to recommend to you have a CRI of 95, which means the colour appearance is almost perfect. Probably two in the waiting area, 4 or 6 in the tattoo area, and 2 or 4 in the art drawing area These lights also have a fantastic glare shield – below is a photograph of them installed in a project I designed, if you look on the ceiling you can hardly tell they are on, except for the floor being very bright. As another plus, they are also Australian made and very reasonably priced compared to European types. http://www.elslighting.com.au/products/downlights/ADL125-XIM-LED.php Efficient Lighting Systems ADL125 XIM ARTIST – 95+ CRI Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 244Mar 23, 2016 6:03 pm Thank you! Really appreciate your advice, problem solved for us. would you recommend the 3000k or 4000k version? Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 245Mar 23, 2016 7:02 pm No worries. I'd probably go 3000k. On the ELS website you should be able to find the agency in your state who you can contact Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 246Mar 24, 2016 4:06 am Hi. I am doing some post handover lighting and wanted your opinion on mirror vanity lighting. I am probably going to have to go above mirror mounting. One in the main bathroom and two over the double vanity mirror in ensuite. I like the Martec Vision MFE114 14 watt or the MFE121 21 watt. I have emailed the company to establish the CRI for these two products as I read I need a CRI of 90 or above to work best for bathroom mirrors. What is you opinion into vanity lighting? Side lighting just won't work even though I know it is recommended. Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 247Mar 24, 2016 9:30 am As a bloke it doesn't particularly bother me personally, but so my wife tells me, downlights tend to create shadows on your face which apparently is problematic when performing female beauty treatments. And yes >CRI90 is best for accurately portraying colours. Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 248Mar 24, 2016 10:25 am Hi 1960sModernistHome,
I have gone through this thread of yours & love it! Thank you for all the guidance you been providing to many first time builders like us. We are building a 2 storey 4BR home in Sydney and it is also going to have an attached 1 BR Granny flat for parents. We went through a consultation with Clipsal and we have an electrical plan. Looking at the number of things we have, it feels it is too much (not to mention it is going to cost us $$$). As an example - we have about 90 LEDs, 50 two socket switches and 46 batten holders. I have been known to go overboard with electrical and data but this one caught me by surprise. I have spent agonising over weeks to see where I can pare back, but can't seem to go through it logically. Can you please look at our plan and let us know what you think? We have LED 11W (Clipsal CP06587 Warm White 3000K), Circular LED 22W (CLW22LED), batten holders and power sockets (SC2025). We definitely want to have ceiling fans in as many locations as we can. Power extension boards are a pet hate, hence the power sockets. We are using 3-in-1 in the bathrooms, pendants in Kitchen over bench & possibly a chandelier in living room. Apart from that we have ducted air-conditioning & solar hot water. We won't have gas and are going all in with electricity as we have a large north facing frontage where we can put up as much solar PV as we want/can afford. Looking forward to your response. Thanks. Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 249Mar 25, 2016 10:04 am Hi, I don't think you've gone too far over the top given the size of the house, but here are a few suggestions to trim some fat: - Maybe get rid of some power outlets from each room - I would probably have max of 3 double powerpoints per bedroom for example. - Do you really need the power outlets in the cupboards? - get rid of the lights in the upstairs linen cupboard, the hallway lights will be sufficient. - Upstairs powder room - delete the downlights if you're going to have mirror lights or pendants over the vanity. There will be plenty of light from the mirror lights. - Both upstairs hallways could get away with 2 downlights instead of 3 - Dining area - I don't think you need the 4 downlights if the batten holder is going to be a pendant, or if you do put downlights in, you could get away with say 2 of them, and use tilt adjustable ones close to the walls, and shine them on the walls (artwork etc). If the batten holder is for a future ceiling fan, disregard this comment - Ensuite vanity - put one double power outlet in the middle instead of two singles. - rumpus/media, do you need downlights and wall lights? Personally I'd go one or the other.(probably wall lights) - The short corridor between the main bedroom and ensuite only needs 1 downlight - You could probably get rid of 1 downlight from the ensuite and just keep the one over the bath - The void above your living is going to require some narrower beam downlights (around 30-40 degrees) in order to get the light down over that distance (probably 5 metres or so?), and probably something with a little more punch than 11 watts, maybe 15+ watts. Or maybe consider something different altogether, perhaps some suspended lighting track, or wall mounted lighting track up at about 3-3.5m above floor level, with some track mounted spotlights, or a cluster of interesting pendant lights? Your house does have a lot of downlights so it might be nice to do something a bit different in this room to take advantage of the height of the void Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Have you considered using other types of lights? Don't get me wrong, Clipsal make good electrical accessories like power outlets, switches etc. But their lighting offering is pretty lacklustre. It's basically rebadged Chinese stuff like you would get at any old lighting shop, for probably $20-25 a fitting. I don't know how much you're paying for the Clipsal downlights but I have heard people paying around >$40. For $40-50 you can get much better stuff, something with a low glare design and some beam angle control. I think these would be ideal, and probably about the same price as the Clipsal ones http://www.greenilluminate.com.au/produ ... /invis-10/ Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 250Mar 25, 2016 4:00 pm That's great feedback - Thank you ... All your points about the power points and light points are well made. Will look at making some revisions. I need to speak to the builder's electrician to find out whether we are going to be tied only to Clipsal products. Hopefully, we can get a few different types of lights. The living room will have an ethnic theme - so I like the idea of going for wall lights. Ceiling height in the void will be about 5.7mts. Should we still have a couple of 15W narrow beam downlights in the ceiling if we have the wall lights? This feedback is exactly what I needed. I can definitely trim some fat now and it is reassuring to know the plan was not totally outlandish. Thanks again. Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 251Mar 26, 2016 11:46 am Hey 1960sModernistHome, I think you may have missed my second post on Pg 12, can you please have a look when you have a chance? No rush You've already helped a lot and its much appreciated! CHEERS! Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 252Mar 26, 2016 5:12 pm 1960sModernistHome As a bloke it doesn't particularly bother me personally, but so my wife tells me, downlights tend to create shadows on your face which apparently is problematic when performing female beauty treatments. And yes >CRI90 is best for accurately portraying colours. Thanks 1960sMH Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 253Mar 28, 2016 8:17 am Yes you're right sorry I did miss it. My comments below icebreaka Thanks soooo much for your advice! I've incorporated most of your suggestions into my plan. I've also decided on some downlight models for now, which you've mentioned: I'll use the: Domus 60° 13W 810lm LED Downlight 3000K $53 https://www.golights.com.au/led-downlig ... s-lighting and also to save money, I'll use some 90° angle downlights: Domus 90° 13W 850lm LED Downlight 3000K $26 https://www.golights.com.au/led-downlig ... s-lighting Please see my updated plan: Questions 1. I'm using the 90° angle downlights in some points as a way of cost saving, but in case I decide to spend more and get more 60° downlights, are any of these light points actually more suited to the 90° light and left as is? Usually I'd only use the wide beam type in small utility areas like store rooms, pantry, laundry, toilet etc - rooms where glare is not really an issue, and where you really just want light spread out across the room 2. Wondering if any of these Domus deep-set are better choices for any light points as the prices are all similar: https://www.golights.com.au/led-downlig ... s-lighting This looks like an excellent price, they are normally around the $60+ personally I would use these at that price https://www.golights.com.au/led-downlig ... s-lighting 3. The 3 in 1's in the bathrooms, I realise I don't like the light they produce in the current home I live in (wondering if its just the light bulb brightness/colour?) .. I just did a Google Image search for 'bathroom lighting' and don't see these units in any pictures, are they outdated? Wondering what other options there are and if the exhaust/heat lamps are necessary? Yeah the lights in the 3in1 units are notoriously bad, but your ensuite has sufficient extra lighting. You could stick another downlight over the basin in your bathroom - depends how generous you're feeling towards your kids/guests. I live in Brisbane so I don't have the heat lamps in my bathroom, but if I lived in the southern part of Australia or in the mountains I would have them. They work well in providing instant heat and thus are quite efficient compared to other forms of electric heating. Exhaust fan is a must in my opinion, even if not a code requirement 4. Since I've changed the BED 2,3,4 lights to Oysters lights, I'm wondering how easy it is to upgrade later on? I'm thinking maybe replace oysters with ceiling fans and 2-4 downlights per room. And would there be marks left on the ceiling from the Oysters? Yes there would be marks but just tell your electrician you want to put fans in later so if they could make sure they put the screws close to the centre of the light and put in some timber noggins in the ceiling. It's easy enough to do later in a single story house with a pitched roof. 5. Back hallway positioning okay? I put one in from of cupboard and other one at T junction. I'd shift the other one closer to bed 3 & 4 so they are evenly spaced. Thanks so much for your help! Much appreciated!!! no worries Oh and thanks for the Domus outdoor wall light suggestion on one of the previous forum pages, those were the style we were looking for! This one in particular: https://www.domuslighting.com.au/block- ... r-3k-19570 Building Services Engineer Renovating our 1960's modernist home in Brisbane https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=82091 Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 258Apr 01, 2016 3:43 pm What a great service you are providing to people, just wanted to say thank you in advance! My partner and I are almost at the end of the build process and we are doing our own downlights after handover. The plan so far is to buy in bulk from an online lighting supplier but we are unsure of how many we need. I've put our plan below. Downlights will be for both hallways, the master bedroom, WIR and ensuite, the open plan living/kitchen/dining as well as the theatre and alfresco. We've been looking at down lights for what seems like forever and have narrowed it down to two. Just wondering your opinion firstly on the actual down lights, then on placement and quantity? We also plan on putting dimmers in the master bedroom and theatre so will need to purchase the compatible dimmer switches as well. {edited - realised I should actually include the lighting plan we have done. Also re-thinking my choice of downlights to reduce glare, any recommendations/suggestions?} The two we have looked at are here: http://www.ozlighting.com.au/domus-10w- ... light.html https://www.sparkydirect.com.au/p/42069 ... 20085.html House plan - Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 259Apr 05, 2016 7:05 am We have our electrical consultation with Coral on Friday. We get 25 Light Battens and 18 double power points. We were hoping to do a lot after hand over to ave some money, but one question i wanted to ask, was if a light batten point is ok for us to later install a fan or fan/light to or does it require for us to put up extra noggins in that point. Not sure if that even makes sense! Thankyou for your generous time and advise. I have found so many of your comments very useful. Re: Ask a lighting design engineer - general Q&A 260Apr 05, 2016 11:29 pm 1960sModernistHome My comments below Hi, Thanks for your responses and thanks a lot for your help with our home! I've read this thread at least 4 times now from start to finish and have picked up something new each time. Keep up the great work Cheers! You should check your detail drawings, it may show downpipe within brick pier. 14 14247 I work with owner, he/she is my man on the ground and I instruct them when to visit the site and take photos and I have other tools in the bag. 4 15443 Ardo That is so funny! I wonder how many people know who Larry Haun is these days. I have a couple of young guys we call Mo 1 & Mo 2 who run a crew of 6 boys and… 9 15609 |