CFL Downlights

chatz · Jan 17, 2012 8:51 pm

We just built a house with large sealed downlights:

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Right now we have CFL's, although not very good ones, I'll definitely follow some links and see if we can find better ones.

In the future we can replace these globes with LEDs when they become affordable.

Chatz

MrZebra · Jan 17, 2012 11:29 pm

Excuse me while I hijack this thread momentarily....

I'm tossing up between CFL and LED downlights in my new kitchen; I'm currently trialling some GU10 9W LEDs for $40 a pop (inc. globe and fixture) and the light is really bright with a 60* spread. I believe CFL downlights give a much broader beam spread, is that correct? If this is right, are they any good at providing task lighting in a kitchen ie. over benches and work surfaces?

Hijack over....apologies for the interruption!

MrCurly · Jan 19, 2012 10:03 am

PHL

MrCurly

Unfortunately our requirement was for lighting throughout the house, and we wanted to be able to feature artwork etc - so gimballed lights were essential.

Seems to me that for minimal additional manufacturing cost, a properly sealed dome reflector design would make a huge difference to efficiency, light/heat loss, and would control pests. We would have bought them if they were available - HPM, Cetnaj and Bunnings had nothing.

Re: artwork; that was the reason we went with some downlights, but how good is the rendition of CFL? I was advised by a lighting specialist it may not be good enough.

In future, when LED technology matures, we will go with recessed focused LED lights; what I've seen is interesting, but not ready for prime-time.

As for looking for lights, we looked at places like Dee Dee Cee, Mondo Luce, Artemide and other places selling commercial fittings.

PHL - Yes, the performance of the cfls exceeds our expectations, they have a warm even light that accentuates the features of our artwork, from that perspective we couldn't be happier.

The problem i have found with sealing downlights is the balance between safety and the life expectancy of the globes. Minimise airflow too much with a casing and they will overheat, reducing their lifespan and increasing the risk of a meltdown within the socket, if they are not sealed at all - well you end up in our position.

So a mitt style of casing seems to be the best solution (for us), as it offers the benefits of sealing (fairly well) the ceiling cavity around the gimball from insects, reducing the light lost into the roof space, and improving the insulation of each fitting - while still allowing some airflow. I'm going to try these http://shop.ecovantage.com.au/products/ ... d20cm.html ,which can be retrofitted without crawling about in the roofspace :shock:

MrCurly · Jan 19, 2012 10:12 am

BTW - while i was at Bunnings yesterday i noticed they sell 100mm pvc domed vent caps, which are basically 100mm tall with a domed top surrounded with wire mesh inserts. These combined with around a 150 mm of 100mmPVC pipe could also do a good job venting any heat and reducing light loss in areas where there is sufficient clearance, just cut a slot for the power cable to slip through. Only problem is they would have to be placed from inside the roofspace..

fifteensixty · Jan 19, 2012 11:43 am

Quote:

So a mitt style of casing seems to be the best solution (for us), as it offers the benefits of sealing (fairly well) the ceiling cavity around the gimball from insects, reducing the light lost into the roof space, and improving the insulation of each fitting - while still allowing some airflow. I'm going to try these http://shop.ecovantage.com.au/products/ ... d20cm.html ,which can be retrofitted without crawling about in the roofspace
..

these look like a top idea ( pardon the pun)
if you buy some let us know how they go. even though our cfl's have a very small gap around them i am all for reducing heat/cool losses and any chance of stopping dust is a big bonus ( although not sure how much dust there will be having a colourbond roof)