Browse Forums Flooring & Floor Covering 1 Jul 16, 2008 8:48 pm I'm thinking of getting direct stick floorboards. It will probably be engineered floorboards rather than solid floorboards, but at this stage I could go either way.
My question is, when it comes time to replace them (sanded too often or badly damaged floorboard), how hard is it to remove the direct stick floorboards and leave a clean surface. From what I can gather, once an engineered floor needs rework it's almost best to just replace it rather than sand and recoat. Demolition August 2009, Construction Started September 2009, Completed December 2010 Re: Removing direct stick floorboards 2Jul 16, 2008 8:55 pm You don’t get much play with engineered floorboards.
In fact in a life time they should only ever be sanded once. And that’s a very light sand! Internal and External Building and Colour Consultant Online - Worldwide http://www.denovoconcepts.com Re: Removing direct stick floorboards 3Jul 17, 2008 7:49 pm Many engineered floorboards can not be sanded at all. That being said they are 'floating' floors and not stuck to the floor with any adhesive so are quite easy to remove.
Boral Silkwood boards can be laid either as floating, direct stick or secret-nailed. Having to remove any boards that have been stuck with a proper floor polyurethane glue........good luck with the mess. It would be easier to lay over the top. Re: Removing direct stick floorboards 4Jul 17, 2008 9:21 pm Luke,
I was hoping you'd provide your opinion. I'm trying to avoid a floating floor since I'm worried it would sound drummy. I though that if they were direct stick then the sound would be better. Another choice would be to use a soundproofing material under the floors. Something like rubber I imagine would give it a nice feel, reduce sound transmission downstairs and would be easy to remove eventually. I'm finding it hard to get the right floorboards. eah method has it's problems. There must be an overall good method out there, but I'm still searching (or at least I'm confused). Cheers, Casa Demolition August 2009, Construction Started September 2009, Completed December 2010 Re: Removing direct stick floorboards 5Jul 18, 2008 4:38 pm floating floors are generally laid over a foam insulation base. Re: Removing direct stick floorboards 6Jul 18, 2008 6:54 pm For engineered floors, I understand there are three laying methods:
1) Direct stick 2) Floating (on insulating foam) 3) Plywood base and then secret nailed (with or without glue?) For Floating (on insulating foam): * Can you glue down some rubber or similar and then glue the boards to this? * Can you get "tacky" rubber so that there is some sticking? * If placed normally, how drummy is the flooring? * Which of the "alternative" methods results in the least drumminess? If you had a concrete slab and wanted to use engineered floors and could choose any method, which would you choose. Demolition August 2009, Construction Started September 2009, Completed December 2010 Re: Removing direct stick floorboards 7Jul 18, 2008 11:22 pm If you glue a floor down it is no longer 'floating'.
Most engineered floors are 'floating floors' in that they are not suitable for glueing or fixing with nails. I'm not familiar with different producers but as far as I'm aware Borals Silkwood is the only floor of this type with the different laying options. Re: Removing direct stick floorboards 8Jul 19, 2008 8:20 am Dukekamaya,
If you had a concrete slab and wanted to use engineered floors and could choose any laying method, which would you choose? Assume that all laying options are open to you (eg. As you said, Boral Silkwood) Cheers, Casa Demolition August 2009, Construction Started September 2009, Completed December 2010 Re: Removing direct stick floorboards 9Jul 19, 2008 4:05 pm I find it a difficult question as I would never use engineered flooring I simply don't like the look of it.
I would probably lean to the ply base and nailed/glued (both) Re: Removing direct stick floorboards 10Jul 21, 2008 8:42 am Dukekamaya I find it a difficult question as I would never use engineered flooring I simply don't like the look of it. I would probably lean to the ply base and nailed/glued (both) Given that the top 4 mm of both engineered floorboards and timber floorboards are the same, what is it about the appearance of engineered floorboards that you don't like? Is it to do with edge bevelling, colour variation, strip width, strip length? Demolition August 2009, Construction Started September 2009, Completed December 2010 Re: Removing direct stick floorboards 11Jul 22, 2008 6:56 pm I must be honest I haven't really looked at the latest engineered boards with 'real' veneer tops. I may just the fact I 'know' they aren't solid boards that turns me off them.
I also prefer both feature and standard grade boards as apposed to select grade - I like the natural character features. You don't normally get those in engineered boards. Re: Removing direct stick floorboards 12Jul 22, 2008 8:18 pm So it looks like your preference for timber flooring over engineered flooring is psychological.
I like the select grade, which is unfortunate since I'll be paying more for the privilege. I like the smooth clean look of it. Demolition August 2009, Construction Started September 2009, Completed December 2010 Re: Removing direct stick floorboards 13Jul 23, 2008 6:08 pm Casa2 So it looks like your preference for timber flooring over engineered flooring is psychological. Not entirely, more aesthetic. It also has a much longer life span. Re: Removing direct stick floorboards 14Jul 23, 2008 6:57 pm This is an interesting discussion, so I hope you're happy to continue.
Timber floorboards have a longer lifespan than engineered floorboards, but their surface coating don't. Timber floorboards can be resanded several times and should last the life of the house. The coating however will need to be redone fairly frequently. From what I can gather the two options are tung oil or polyurethane. Tung oil needs to be redone every 5 years and polyurethane every 10 years. Engineered floorboards, can be resanded only 2 to 3 times. However, the surface coating, for example Boral Silkwood, have a 25 year guarantee on the surface finish. That's along time before recoating. Of course the recoat will only last as long as the recoat material, for example, polyurethane (~10 years). In addition engineered floorboards are dimensionally more stable (so less expansion gaps and longer spans), come precoated (so the surface finish quality is superb and there's no smell or delay in using). I think a very big factor in flooring is the recoating. Everytime you need to recoat, all the furniture has to be removed and there are several days that you have to be out of the house. Doing this every 5 to 10 years is a big deal. Doing this after 25 years is not so bad. When it comes to appearance, I like the smooth seamless look of engineered floorboards. When it comes to sound reflection and transmission, I don't think there is much difference between timber and engineered floorboards. It seems to come down to more the application method (batons, plywood, floating, direct stick, etc). I'm still researching and may change my mind several times between now and when I commit to the flooring, but at this stage it seems hard to beat 133 mm one strip Boral Silkwood using direct stick to a concrete slab. What I'm hoping to chieve is: 1) A smooth clean looking finish 2) Immediate walk on after laying and no smells 3) A surface finish that does not have to be touched for 25 years 4) For non-carpeted flooring, the least sound reflection and transmission 5) A reasonable all up cost. 6) Minimal expansion gap at the edges (my skirting boards are only 10 mm thick) 7) A surface finish that is not dependent on the quality of the polisher (I've seen some dreadful polyurethane finished will lots of dust/whatever in the coating) Low thermal resistance (I'm putting in hydronic in-slab heating) Demolition August 2009, Construction Started September 2009, Completed December 2010 Re: Removing direct stick floorboards 16Jul 23, 2008 8:43 pm This is from the Boral website. I'm sure there are better pictures somewhere. See how there are no "bumps" between floorboards, there are long runs and there are no nails or anything showing. Smooth as...
Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Demolition August 2009, Construction Started September 2009, Completed December 2010 Re: Removing direct stick floorboards 17Jul 24, 2008 10:27 am I have direct stick solid timber floor boards and my partner secret nailed it as well as liquid nailing it. It looks great, and can't wait until my jarrah floors are sanded and polished. All direct stick solid flooring should be able to be secret nailed. To do that, my partner uses this weird looking gun where he pushed it against the floorboard and hit the top of it with a special hammer. Looks cool being done. Re: Removing direct stick floorboards 18Jul 24, 2008 12:29 pm I will be aiming for direct stick on a concrete slab, whcih means I will not be able to secret nail it. The glue shoudl be enough however, it just may be abit slower as the glue has to grip before pressure is released. Demolition August 2009, Construction Started September 2009, Completed December 2010 Re: Removing direct stick floorboards 19Jul 24, 2008 7:18 pm I don't see how engineered floors are 'more seamless', nor should there be any 'bumps' on a solid timber floor if they have been laid and sanded professionally.
Many engineered floors cannot no be sanded at all whilst others once or twice. As far as the 25 year guarantee on the surface coating, I would like to read the fine details of that warranty. I reckon the floor would need recoating long before that. Its like the '50 year' and '25 year' gurantees given to different grades of treated pine - you would be hard pressed to find anyone who has successfully claimed against such a warranty. Minx, the secret-nailer is a fairly standard tool for installing flooring. They actually fire a staple rather than a nail. Whilst they are a brilliant piece of equipment, I can say from experience your back feels it after three days use when not used to it. Just read the warranty, it does not cover 'scrathes or reduction in gloss' Re: Removing direct stick floorboards 20Jul 25, 2008 6:21 pm Dukekamaya I don't see how engineered floors are 'more seamless', nor should there be any 'bumps' on a solid timber floor if they have been laid and sanded professionally. Many engineered floors cannot no be sanded at all whilst others once or twice. As far as the 25 year guarantee on the surface coating, I would like to read the fine details of that warranty. I reckon the floor would need recoating long before that. Its like the '50 year' and '25 year' gurantees given to different grades of treated pine - you would be hard pressed to find anyone who has successfully claimed against such a warranty. Minx, the secret-nailer is a fairly standard tool for installing flooring. They actually fire a staple rather than a nail. Whilst they are a brilliant piece of equipment, I can say from experience your back feels it after three days use when not used to it. Just read the warranty, it does not cover 'scrathes or reduction in gloss' My partner did it (chippy) and lets just say I had to give him plenty of back rubs to make up for the huge favour he did for my by doing it! Thanks Simon, I guess I'm no concerned with the volume of the noise rather that dead and hollow sound and feel that is associated with floating floors. But I'm not sure… 3 6163 Hey guys, what’s everyone opinion on James Hardie linea direct fix to frame? Would this be the most common method and anybody ever had any problems down the track? 0 5159 Hi All New to the forum and looking for some advice, has anyone else renovated an old miners cottage in or around Ballarat and been able to identify the flooring? We… 0 8775 |