Browse Forums Flooring & Floor Covering 1 Oct 29, 2008 1:04 pm how easy is this to lay? for a complete newbie with no experience at all...the actual click together part of the flooring i understand completely but I don't have a clue how I would do around the edges of the room, especially for the last pieces?
also i've heard it can warp if left wet for too long, how long is 'too long'? Are they talking hours or days, weeks etc? And last question, laying the laminate around door frames, i have two doors in a corner of a hall so the door frames at floor level make a zigzag shape, is this going to be difficult to cut around? I've heard of slicing into the door frames and putting the laminate under, but these are very tough steel door frames that I can't even drill into, so I have a feeling the cutting the laminate around may be easier. Re: timber laminate "click" flooring 2Oct 30, 2008 4:46 pm elly how easy is this to lay? for a complete newbie with no experience at all...the actual click together part of the flooring i understand completely but I don't have a clue how I would do around the edges of the room, especially for the last pieces? also i've heard it can warp if left wet for too long, how long is 'too long'? Are they talking hours or days, weeks etc? And last question, laying the laminate around door frames, i have two doors in a corner of a hall so the door frames at floor level make a zigzag shape, is this going to be difficult to cut around? I've heard of slicing into the door frames and putting the laminate under, but these are very tough steel door frames that I can't even drill into, so I have a feeling the cutting the laminate around may be easier. Hi Elly, I recently laid the laminate in my apartment (needed strata approval though) and it was the first time I've done it. It's not difficult but allow for wasted planks when you measure incorrectly or cut out notches on the wrong sides because that is what happened to me. I have metal door frames and just cut out notches for them leaving a gap which was puttied afterwards. You need to leave an 8-10mm gap around stuff to allow for expansion. Scotia or trim is then either nailed or liquid nailed to the wall to hide the 8-10mm gap. I used a jigsaw to cut notches in the laminate planks and a dropsaw to do the 45 degree cuts in the scotia. Most flooring places will lend you an instructional dvd. My understanding is if the laminate is allowed to soak up water then it will warp but I am unsure how long. Would assume the amount of water it was allowed to soak up would be more of a problem. Here's some photos from the install. Black is the moisture barrier, Red is the sound insulation. Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Hope that gives you more insight in to the effort involved. Re: timber laminate "click" flooring 3Feb 17, 2009 11:19 am hi ed,
nice job on the floor. i'm interested in your data cabling. It the photos it looks like you have just placed them under the floorboards. Just wanted to know if you had any issues with doing that. I was thinking wireless but if i can get away with what you have done, then that may be an option. Cheers, kir Have a shiny new Heywood 28! - http://burtony.blogspot.com/ Re: timber laminate "click" flooring 5Feb 17, 2009 12:42 pm kpny hi ed, nice job on the floor. i'm interested in your data cabling. It the photos it looks like you have just placed them under the floorboards. Just wanted to know if you had any issues with doing that. I was thinking wireless but if i can get away with what you have done, then that may be an option. Cheers, kir Most flooring need 8-10mm expansion gap next to the walls. I just ran the cables down this gap. I cam quite close to the wall in the last photo but the cat5e is still there and gets covered by the skirting/scotia. Re: timber laminate "click" flooring 6Feb 19, 2009 7:10 am I laid my flooring at a townhouse a few years ago.
I had timber door frames so I used a 100mm grinder to cut a space to slide the floor under the frame. One thing to note before laying the floor boards. Check how level the slab is before you start!!!!! My floor was 20mm shallow in one section. Carpet hides the bad concrete slab but floors will float above and give the creaking when you stand on a hollow. I used a very runny slurry to level the floor. I did it in stages so it could dry quickly. As for the wet issue. I had a fish tank leak and a shower leak out on the floors. the water filled the underlay and spread quickly. We used towels and walked over the joins to compress the underlay to expel the water. It took days to get rid of it even with the heaters running flat out. There was no evidence at all. Licenced Sparky and Data Cabler If "The Data Guys" is too long to type, TDG will do. Engineering timber is certainly a less fuss option, times cheaper to supply and install and better withstands humidity. 1 15908 Just about completed a renovation project and hit a small issue that we didn’t see We have laminate floors now where we had tiles before (turned out it was actually 2… 0 4931 DIY, Home Maintenance & Repair At a bit of a loss on this one - we're thinking the original owners never removed the protective laminate covers from their kitchen cabinets after installation and in the… 0 6330 |