Browse Forums Flooring & Floor Covering Re: Floor Question 21Oct 07, 2008 9:47 pm No not at all, that guesstimate was for feature grade too - select grade would be up around $90 sq. metre.
It depends on whether you need to lay a sub-floor or not too. Re: Floor Question 23Oct 08, 2008 8:36 am Hi,
I've been reading Riksters and Phoenixs posts re the Boral Silkwood flooring and I have a totally different experience. I absolutely love them! We had solid timber flooring previously and I honestly havent noticed that the boral scratches any more than the solid timber did. I think they look beautiful and everyone that comes to our house comments on how nice the floor looks. We have the boards in all of our downstairs rooms and we wear shoes in the house. I have 2 teenage children and a heavy dog that runs around and the boards and the boards still look great. We have had them for a year now and I couldnt be happier with my decision to lay these over the soid timber. Spoilt princess Re: Floor Question 26Oct 08, 2008 6:53 pm Can I ask a really stupid question
Am I right in thinking that it doesn't matter how much room the builders leave to install the floorboards as any size + underlay can fit it will just mean there will be extra quad around the skirts? I initially asked this question because I thought my floorboards might not fit in the standard builders space for floors, but it seems after reading people's responses that any floorboards will fit it just means you will need quading, which some people don't like ... My karma ran over your dogma Re: Floor Question 27Oct 08, 2008 9:46 pm IMHO there is never any need for quading, I think it make the flooring look like an after thought. Talk to your CSR, talk to your supervisor, just make it quite clear you don't want the skirts on. If Henley will come to the party, then anyone will. I'm not sure what you mean by how much room the builder leaves for the flooring, I had 9ft between slab and ceiling which I found to be ample .
Regards Chris Re: Floor Question 29Oct 09, 2008 6:41 am I understand the "tacking angle", however PD said no outright to us. Like it or not, they are a volume builder and it goes with the territory. Some things are flexible some not.
One idea that I saw that looked good, was painting the quad the same colour as the skirts. That way the colour flows all the way down the wall to the floor and keeps the same line. So your eye is fooled and it is not so noticable. Just another idea to for you. Hope this has not added to your confusion. Re: Floor Question 30Oct 09, 2008 9:57 am Quote: Am I right in thinking that it doesn't matter how much room the builders leave to install the floorboards as any size + underlay can fit it will just mean there will be extra quad around the skirts? I initially asked this question because I thought my floorboards might not fit in the standard builders space for floors, but it seems after reading people's responses that any floorboards will fit it just means you will need quading, which some people don't like ... Bel, not sure what you mean by the standard builders space for floors?? As someone else mentioned if the skirting boards have to be put on before floor is done you might want to go higher skirting boards so a decent amount is still showing after floor is laid & quad put on. Skirting boards will sit on the concrete floor if done prior to floorboards being laid. The height of the floor will depend on if the solid floor is laid on plywood which will make the floor higher than if boards are direct stuck to slab (which was how ours & Dy's were done). Hope this helps, Jo Re: Floor Question 31Oct 09, 2008 10:05 am The other thing to consider Bel is if you are getting floors that need to be sanded and sealed your skirting will get damaged and will need to be repainted after the floors are finished. Unless you are getting prefinished floor boards.
I hope they come to the party with some options for you. Re: Floor Question 32Oct 09, 2008 12:17 pm Over the past few days DH and I have been totally consumed by flooring and all the issues that go along with it.
We aren't too concerned about the skirts being left on, after handover DH and I will go in and remove and number them all so they can be replaced after floor is in. (not sure if we'll do this or get someone in... ) Cl@rendon won't leave them off, because the certifier won't sign off on the build. As far as leaving enough space for the floor, our main problem has been with the kitchen (mainly the dishwasher). When we redesigned the kitchen we told them we needed 20mm for our floors... but with a solid floor we need 35mm (if layed on 15mm plywood) or 40mm (if layed on 19mm plywood). We've spoken directly to the people making / installing the kitchen and they will pack the kitchen to whatever height we ask, be it 20mm, 35mm or 40mm. We are still waiting on many quotes, and can then decide which way we are going.... BUT, our kitchen is made and could go in, in the next week or so, so we HAVE to decide soon. We've also found that going direct to 'Timber Mills / timber flooring only companies much much better! They aren't interested in only getting a SALE, they are passionate about solid Timber Flooring. Most that I've spoken to won't touch the Bor@l stuff (both solid timber and engineered floor boards). Re: Floor Question 33Oct 09, 2008 12:24 pm Also consider when you are choosing your floors or floor company ask if that company has there own sanding and sealing company or if they get contractors to do this part of the job.
(long sentence ahead proceed with a big breath) Our first lot of timber floors were done by a contractor hired by the flooring company and when it came time to tell him he had to pay for all our walls to be reapinted, due to him using a cloth that had terps on it to wipe down some of the dust off the walls, he was trying to fight the company for them to pay when it was his issue. It took more time and we just wanted it sorted. It is this part of the preocess that is the most important....make sure this is the part you ask the most question about. Between the cabinetmaker and the wood floor people you should get a good feel for what height you need. Re: Floor Question 34Oct 09, 2008 2:02 pm I think I'm confusing myself and everyone even more!
Can floorboards be direct stick onto a slab? What I meant with the standard space that builders left was more to do with will the floorboards fit under/near cupboards/dishawasher space, or do you have to ask these things to be raised to a certain height to allow for the thicker floorboards/plywood? My karma ran over your dogma Re: Floor Question 35Oct 09, 2008 3:02 pm Quote: Can floorboards be direct stick onto a slab? Yes, this is how ours were done. Dy's (DeeElle) were also like this. Apparently a fairly new method. We are really happy with them. Quote: What I meant with the standard space that builders left was more to do with will the floorboards fit under/near cupboards/dishawasher space, or do you have to ask these things to be raised to a certain height to allow for the thicker floorboards/plywood? Not sure about this as ours were done pre kitchen being installed. I assume that kickboards are all on & boards are laid up to this & then you have the quad?? Re: Floor Question 36Oct 09, 2008 3:06 pm Bel, our were direct stick onto slab as thats how its generally done over here. So our cupboards went in first and the only thing we had to worry about was the heights of the doors as some of them would scrape along the floors if they were not shaved enough. Our floorboard did not go underneath our cupboards. Does that make any sense? Sorry if I am not explaining very well. Then we put the skirtings on after the floors were done.
In your case you will have to find out from the wood floor people how much clearance you will need or find out if its easy to take off your skirtings and reput them on after the floors are finished. Re: Floor Question 37Oct 09, 2008 3:44 pm Ahh yes it is all making sense now - the floors just buts up against the cupboards and doesn't go underneath, what about the dishwasher space though? or the same thing..
Good point about the doors, I guess if the floor sat up too high we could always shave some height off the bottom of the doors I think the skirtings can be easily taken off, I'm sure a few people have done this, if not I will just get the quad and then paint it the same colour white as my skirting boards so it all blends in, I have seen this done too and you can't even notice, it actually makes a nice little feature Does anyone know the general thickness or real timber floorboards? Good quality? I have heard 19mm and a few others, I want ones that can be sanded back a few times for longevity My karma ran over your dogma Re: Floor Question 38Oct 09, 2008 4:00 pm I don't want to confuse you more Bel, but I have also spent a lot of time thinking about this and am almost at the point of getting tiles because I can't deal with it!!
Can anyone tell me what happens with the architraves around doorways etc if you remove the skirtings and put them back? You can't remove the architraves so even if you remove the skirtings you won't be albe to get the flooring under the architraves around doorways etc? If you use a quad I guess you can just cut into the quad the shape of the doorway and then paint it. I really have an issue with quad though. Seriously, I'm just gonna get tiles! Re: Floor Question 39Oct 09, 2008 4:01 pm haywgl Does anyone know the general thickness or real timber floorboards? Good quality? I have heard 19mm and a few others, I want ones that can be sanded back a few times for longevity You'll find that most solid timber floors are 19mm and layed on either 15mm or 19mm plywood or 19mm battens. Most timber places we've spoken to over the past few days do either of these methods. Battens can leave a 'hollowy" (sp?) sound whereas plywood not so. As I've said in my previous posts, we have to tell our kitchen installers how much to pack (ie: raise the kitchen cupboards) over the cement slab. We had originally said 20mm - but this isn't enough for a solid floor, so it will either be 35mm or 40mm. It is worth talking to various floor companies as they can explain and demonstrate it quite well. I have learnt so much though this. I haven't found anyone who does direct stick, probably due to our climate here in Sydney.. Also, the cement slab does retain some moisture, so not sure what that means if its layed directly onto a slab Re: Floor Question 40Oct 09, 2008 4:02 pm Rachelle Can anyone tell me what happens with the architraves around doorways etc if you remove the skirtings and put them back? You can't remove the architraves so even if you remove the skirtings you won't be albe to get the flooring under the architraves around doorways etc? If you use a quad I guess you can just cut into the quad the shape of the doorway and then paint it. I really have an issue with quad though. Seriously, I'm just gonna get tiles! Oh, I hadn't thought of this... :? isn't a garage level with the rest of the house a given? pretty sure they 'came around' long time ago. if you have a flat block, the garage is usually level with the rest… 1 18481 bec of more thickness and underlay i prefer laminate. also my builder covers laminate only. 2 2373 |