Sep 10, 2017 12:43 pm
We are wanting to gain more space where our fridge is to stop it sticking out further.
If i recess the wall the fridge backs onto, i can gain about 90mm (thickness of frames) which would make a huge difference to the way the fridge sticks out
I have attached a picture of the frame in that space, and have checked there are no services in that area
The questions i have are
1) Can i remove the framing in that area, install a hardwood beam 90mm x whatever required high (understand the thicker the stronger) What do you recommend here for size, i was thinking 90x120mm would work? frame picture shows in red where i would install hardwood
2) Understand you cant reallty "back to back" gyprock in an area that big as that part of the wall would be quite weak, so i would install a timber board in that area instead, Would this be suitable http://photos.imageevent.com/okoboji_im ... fridge.JPG
3) Can i paint that timber board and expect it to look similar, or do i then need to gyprock over that also? effectively having existing gyprock facing hallway, timber board secure n for strenght, then more gyprock facing fridge
Re: Recessing fridge wall4
Sep 10, 2017 7:48 pm
Have you considered the clearances for opening the doors? For most French door or side-by-side fridges you cannot recess the fridge past the magnetic strip unless the stud walls on either side are far enough away or they have 45° angles in them. This is what we have done so the front of the fridge is flush with the cabinetry.
Recessing fridge wall6
Sep 10, 2017 9:06 pm
So the answers to your questions:
1. You should check with your frame designer to see what they think is OK, but you should be able to install a lintel to take the weight of the top part of the wall and spread it to the sides as long as that wall in not load bearing (which is unlikely). It's always better if the lintel can sit on top of a secondary stud attached to a jamb stud, but you may get away with nailing directly to a common stud. The lintel doesn't have to be hardwood and you could use a treated pine or engineered beam like this (not that big obviously).
2. You can use plywood for the back wall, which will also add lateral strength.
3. Some plywood sheets have one or even two finished faces, which would probably be suitable for painting. The texture might be slightly different, but its behind the fridge, so who's going to look.
Re: Recessing fridge wall7
Sep 10, 2017 9:07 pm
Thanks heaps. Much appreciated.
I did plan to install two new 90x45s up the vertical sides that the new cross timber could sit on, to add strength like in your photo
That timber your using, is it called an I Joist? would a 200x45 i-joist do the trick?
Re: Recessing fridge wall9
Sep 19, 2017 10:01 am
No, I joists are for flooring. What arcadelt's picture shows something like a 170 x 35mm pine board. For a header, (lintel) they are doubled with a 20mm plywood strip sandwiched between to bring it out to the same size as the 90mm studs.That's probably overkill for your wall, guessing from the picture it doesnt look load bearing so you could do what you said and use two 90x 35's, sitting on top of what you said the two 90x35 one at each end, they are called a jack stud.
Just a point though. Check the width of your fridge and the width of the opening. (remembering to allow for the plasterboard) If you put those jack studs in against the current studs you are going to close in the cavity by 70mm. If the fridge is really tight in the opening, you might have to take out the two full length studs and re frame it so the jacks come flush with the side walls.
Re: Recessing fridge wall10
Oct 31, 2017 4:29 pm
It doesn't look like a load bearing wall most precut frames internal walls aren't, but you best wait until the roof is on before cutting anything.
What you described is good enough, I'd just use 1 sheet of gyprock and 1 nice sheet of ply it won't need any more than paint, nobody going to be looking or see behind your fridge.
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