Browse Forums Renovation + Home Improvement 1 Apr 22, 2011 5:20 pm Hi We just recently removed a few walls in our 1950's built home, which has left an unfortunate gap in our cypress pine floor (which we want to polish). As you can see from the pics there is no simple method to repair the holes as they are running in different directions, length and width. I could just patch the floors with new timber and put up with the imperfections (at a cost of about $700) , or was thinking of just ripping up the affected section and relaying new boards to try and get it to match as good as possible (at a cost of around $1500 for timber & labour, knowing it won't be perfect). I've also considered putting some sort of parquetry feature to disguise the patches, but have gone off that iddea. Any thoughts or ideas here? Does anyone have any advice on how to approach the patching job. My builder is happy to do it, but was thinking a floor specialist will yield a better result. Cheers daymo Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Re: Patching Timber floor 2Apr 27, 2011 2:33 pm Just thought I'd stop in to say there's no pictures in here. As for patching I guess the only way go to is either fill in the gaps with new timber or remove the lot and start from scratch. If its going to get to you looking at imperfections I'd have a good look at the cost to re do the lot, at least then you'll know that it'll be good to go for a long time. Re: Patching Timber floor 3Apr 27, 2011 5:21 pm Im not a builder, but I was wondering about the floor strength if you patch it. Will it take the furniture weight when placed on top. Also if its patched in a prominent area, it will probably annoy you after a while. Sometimes you have to bite the bullet and pay the cost Re: Patching Timber floor 4May 02, 2011 1:44 pm We did the same - ripped out robes and a wall from the 1950s part of our place leaving holes in the cypress floor. We had it patched with new cypress boards and polished with the rest of the floor and you'd never pick the new bits. Our builder did have to rip the boards down as they are no longer a standard size. They pulled the boards back to logical cut lines, put a few extra noggins in between the existing joists to support the new pieces and laid the boards. Our boards were all running in the same direction which made the job much easier! Oh no! I would use a can of expandable foam ( there are some that will take render) then cut it back and render over the top 1 4148 Engineering timber is certainly a less fuss option, times cheaper to supply and install and better withstands humidity. 1 15923 The most likely cause of your timber swelling (parquetry?) is either a plumbing leak or carelessly leaving water on floors after use or both. Without seeing, i am ignoring… 1 3280 |