Door specification - prehung and rough opening

akapacker · Aug 03, 2014 4:09 pm

Hi all,
Just wanting some advice on specifying doors in my owner build house.
I was going to choose Hume as a manufacturer, since they have 2340mm tall doors as standard, whereas Corinthian only have them at 2040mm as standard. Sticking to the standard widths as well, to minimise widths. Seems like these are the main door suppliers in Victoria.
I will specify a solid core door, because I don't like the sound of the lightweight hollow core doors.
However, I was wondering about the merits of pre-hung doors. I am not a carpenter, so was thinking pre-hung doors would be much easier for me to install. Are there any carpenters who have has experience with pre-hung vs non-pre-hung doors? Are they a huge time saver for the unskilled?
Also, the Hume website gives little information about the rough opening for the doors.
I found this recommendation on the American website of Homedepot, recommending adding 2inches to the door dimensions to account for the stiles/door frame material.
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfIma ... d7ab07.pdf
The reason I'm asking is that I'm specifying prefabricated wall frames. Do I need to specify the rough opening for the doors too - I guess I can just send the door schedule to the frame manufacturer, and let them do the thinking!
Can anyone help out, please?
Appreciate your help!
Thanks
David

mgilla · Aug 03, 2014 5:05 pm

Hi David
Getting your doors pre hung hinged and latched is certainly a lot easier option.
Just about every Chippie I know as a different method of hanging them but at the end of the day the result is the same.
All the frame company will need to know is the door size, they will make the opening to suit. For an 820 door it will be around 865-870 and they height will be either 2100 for 2040 doors and 2400 for 2340 doors.
Some basic tips when doing your frame that will make hanging our doors easier.
Make sure your door ways are plumb in and out, side to side you can account for when hanging the door but in and out you can't do much with once the plaster is on without causing damage.
This might seem silly, but take into account the weather conditions when you are hanging your doors.
If its been hot and dry allow an extra 2mm margin on the lock side, it's not unreasonable to have a 5-6mm margin on an unpainted door in these conditions.
This allows for the door to swell when there is moisture in the air and your not faced with the issue of doors sticking.
Similarly if it's been raining for a few days you can set up your doors with a 2mm margin as they will have already swelled.

qebtel · Aug 04, 2014 11:10 am

I not a carpenter, and I hang doors myself successfully. Its not rocket science. Do one or two and you'll get the hang of it.

manofaus · Aug 05, 2014 11:42 am

Your framing manufacturer can work it out for you. Just note if your architraves are narrow you need to make sure that you tell them. Not much room to cover the clearance needed. I allow 30mm each side and for the 45 for the top.

The quote I received for a pre swung door jamb was 180 each. All I have to do is trim the bottom of the door jamb to suit the covering or out of level flooring. It was using FJ pine 110mm actual Jambs with three standard hinges on a standard 820 2040 40 solid. Only suitable for painting. After I told them I would like a transom (fan light), well that blew the idea out of the water. Buying the material, making up jigs and doing it myself.

I would imagine 2400 doors solids would be very expensive.

FWIW project builders don't use tradition door jambs much these days as they are all painted. they start with a flat fill panel that they staple together and rebate the hinges on. The hinges are made with rounded corners so they can just route them in with a laminate trimmer and jig. No more chiselling. they then fit the hinge side to the door frame and swing the door. Then they set and pack the lock side to the door allowing for clearances. they fit the lock close the door. they then fit a strip around the door frame butting up to the door. Most doors get are probably pinned in with the architrave. Its nasty, cheap and fast. Next time you are in a project home have a look at the jambs you will see what I mean. Most of the jambs are level on the sides to the door but check out the top jamb.
And that's the thing 98% of people walk around not looking at these things, but alas I have ruined your day and most readers now.

mgilla · Aug 05, 2014 7:53 pm

manofaus

Your framing manufacturer can work it out for you. Just note if your architraves are narrow you need to make sure that you tell them. Not much room to cover the clearance needed. I allow 30mm each side and for the 45 for the top.
Architrave size will have nothing to do with the margin, that will be the same regardless. I think 30mm each side is way to much, if you are using 42mm arcs and have a single stud against the wall, when you fit the hinge jamb so the arc fits neatly against the gyprock you will have a 20mm gap between the jamb and frame on the lock side. 25mm at the most is more than enough.

FWIW project builders don't use tradition door jambs much these days as they are all painted. they start with a flat fill panel that they staple together and rebate the hinges on. The hinges are made with rounded corners so they can just route them in with a laminate trimmer and jig. No more chiselling. they then fit the hinge side to the door frame and swing the door. Then they set and pack the lock side to the door allowing for clearances. they fit the lock close the door. they then fit a strip around the door frame butting up to the door. Most doors get are probably pinned in with the architrave. Its nasty, cheap and fast. Next time you are in a project home have a look at the jambs you will see what I mean. Most of the jambs are level on the sides to the door but check out the top jamb.
And that's the thing 98% of people walk around not looking at these things, but alas I have ruined your day and most readers now.

You can order pine jambs instead of mdf.
I don't quite understand what you mean by all this, what is it we're looking at on the jambs in a display house

manofaus · Aug 06, 2014 2:31 pm

the reason I run 30mm is so the packer that is used does not split and drop and you don't get jamb flex. I screw the jambs in. I run 67 archs. I dont ever assume that the hinge side of the frame is level and plumb to allow the jamb up against it. The pine and meranti jambs I use have about 13mm rebates. Allow 5mm for the gap overall. takes the packers down to about 8~9mm each side.

the jambs used in your typical project home are not a rebated jamb. They are a tacked together jamb that just don't look right. hide all manner of shortcuts.

akapacker · Aug 06, 2014 11:55 pm

Thanks everyone for the advice. Sounds like pre-hung doors are the go. I will definitely take a look at the doors again in the display homes. I only counted the number of hinges, and the brand, and how solid the door felt, but I'll try to figure out what man-of-aus was describing the project builders do, and not do it!

Thanks
David