Browse Forums Owner Builder Forum 1 Oct 20, 2011 12:18 pm Is anyone familiar with australian standard 1288 and the Building Code regarding glass balustrading. We made ours 1200 high for our upstairs deck . We supported it with two stainless steel spigotts for each piece of glass and then put a stainless steel rail across the top attaching it to the wall at the ends. Now we are told we need a rail at 1000 mm off the deck unless we can show other information to prove that what we have is okay. would appreciate any input thanks Re: glass balustrading 2Oct 20, 2011 3:21 pm Ballabil Is anyone familiar with australian standard 1288 and the Building Code regarding glass balustrading. We made ours 1200 high for our upstairs deck . We supported it with two stainless steel spigotts for each piece of glass and then put a stainless steel rail across the top attaching it to the wall at the ends. Now we are told we need a rail at 1000 mm off the deck unless we can show other information to prove that what we have is okay. would appreciate any input thanks I think the problem is that the thickness of the glass you are using combined with the design load required means that the span (height) can't support the load at that thickness. e.g. AS 1288 ....Infill Balustrades - 2 edge Support - a design load at 1.5kN/m has a maximum height for 6mm toughened safety glass of 860mm. I guess they are suggesting a crash barrier at 1000mm to compromise, but I don't think you would need the handrail at 1200mm as well... Ed "ECOECO" At 'EcoEco', we design windows, we design the best windows, we do it for you, so that when you’re happy we are happy. Tel. 1800 326 326 Re: glass balustrading 3Oct 24, 2011 6:37 am Thanks for the comment. I neglected to say that we used 12ml toughened glass. So far we have found out that the space between the top of the spigotts and the bottom of our rail needs to be less than 1030 and our is 1100. We are getting an engineer to consult to see if we comply as is before we go to the trouble and expense of changing anything. I would appreciate any input. Do you know if we can read the aus standards on line anywhere. Re: glass balustrading 4Oct 24, 2011 12:19 pm Ballabil Thanks for the comment. I neglected to say that we used 12ml toughened glass. So far we have found out that the space between the top of the spigotts and the bottom of our rail needs to be less than 1030 and our is 1100. We are getting an engineer to consult to see if we comply as is before we go to the trouble and expense of changing anything. I would appreciate any input. Do you know if we can read the aus standards on line anywhere. Hi Sorry I don't know where you can get a copy of the standard. I have one in front of me and I can't see the issue you mention. I think you have a panels supported with 4 clamps each near a corner, along the edge. (?) The rule is that each clamp should be no more than 1/4 of the vertical distance between the clamps to the top & bottom horizontal edge. If this was the case, you can have a total panel height of 1485 @ 12mm at maximum load. If you post a sketch I may be able to interpret better. Thanks Ed "ECOECO" At 'EcoEco', we design windows, we design the best windows, we do it for you, so that when you’re happy we are happy. Tel. 1800 326 326 Re: glass balustrading 5Oct 24, 2011 3:02 pm Hi Ed thanks again for your reply . I will start my description again and I will post a pic . We have several decks the one in question is upstairs. As a balustrading we have installed glass. We have supported each peice of glass with heavy duty stainless steel spigotts. Each spigott is attached to the deck using 3 x75ml stainless steel batten screws. The screws go through the 19mm merbeau decking then the joists, where there is no joist we have put a 100 x100 hardwood block. Each panel of glass is supported by 2 of these. The panels of glass are 12m thick and 1200 high. The lengths vary from 780 to 1430. Across the top of the glass in a continued line, we have stainless steel slotted M50 tube 1.5ml wall thickness. Where it is joined it has a stainless steel sleeve that is inserted and glued with SS Loktite 480 and for extra strength a stainless steel pop rivet. The corner is joined with a 90 degree stainless steel joiner using the loktite. One end of this rail or pipe is attached to the wall using a stainless steel end fitting made for this purpose. The other end has a 90 degree cnr joiner and is similarly attached to a stainless steel post, which is attached to the deck in the same way as the spigotts. I hope that this explains things a bit better. I will have a go at putting a pic in my next reply. thanks again Need to remove glass panel out of concrete without wrecking the glass to get the spa room in, any recommendations on how to do that. Thank you 0 39045 What do you need them to withstand? If it's normal wear and tear, then either will do, if you want resistance to ingress then laminated would be the favourite, but only… 1 12390 |