Buckle in, it's a big one
The ask: Specific advice on enclosing balcony
Context: I'm renovating my 3b, 1ba timber pole home on the southern end of the GC as an owner-builder (zero building experience). I will manage the project and hire all the trades (not on the tools). To make things more interesting, my wife is pregnant so the pressure is on!
Currently, all 3 bedrooms lead onto a timber framed, tiled balcony, underneath the balcony is a large deck which our kitchen runs onto. Our goal is to enclose under the balcony section so that we can include a multi-purpose room and extend the kitchen space.
The problem:
- Currently, the balcony badly leaks from: each sliding door threshold, floor to cladding connections and return at gutter line.
- The balcony sliding doors have no set-down and are poorly sealed.
- Both the internal and external floor framing is at the same height which prohibits a set-down.
- The current balcony butts up to the exterior cladding of the balcony above (this is where water runs down)
- The certifier says the only way to achieve the required termination height (as per AS4654.2) without a set-down is through a threshold drain.
- I've spent many hrs looking into this and have concluded a threshold drain is simply too difficult to achieve.
- My alternative solution is installing a hob: Technical drawing here
- The certifier believes this requires a 'performance solution' as it's not deemed to satisfy (not sure why as it achieved termination height)
My strategy:
- Demo doors, rip up tiles, rip up the bottom 2 pine cladding boards
- Replace substrate with 22mm sycon (if required)
- Install L-shaped aluminium flashing under cladding (now exposed) and onto substrate
- Waterproof the join gap from internal 25mm particle board to 22mm sycon board
- Install 100mm timber hob on-top of join gap
Install L-shaped flashing at hob to floor join + fillet - Follow the rest of the technical drawing here
My questions (not sure what else to ask):
- How do I achieve a close join from internal to external substrates? - What do I do if there's a large gap? - If the finished levels are a few mm out, can I rebate the hob to fit snug and bridge the gap?
- Any issue with ending the cladding on top of the flooring/L-join, so I can direct water away from the join?
- Is my certifier wrong? - Is this code/standard compliant
- How do I fix small gaps / inconsistencies that aren't flush
Attached are a bunch of photos
Thank you kindly for all your help!
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