Browse Forums Eco Living Re: Water tanks for the technically challenged 61Oct 10, 2022 1:22 pm Hi SaveH20 Wonderfully detailed response, which is going to take me some time to digest. Just a couple of queries... I was assuming the Thintank would receive the first load of water and the round tank would be the settling tank. That's why I put the round tank nearest the easement and furthest from the drainpipes. Is the height difference between the two tanks the reason for making the Thintank the settling tank? The distance from the small wall to the drainpipe (not including the drainpipe) is 57cm. Also we aren't going to have a footpath bordered with grass/dirt verges to run a pipe under - the whole area is going to be concreted, so we would be laying the pipe under the concrete and up through the concrete into the tanks?? And how would the pipe from drainpipe B meet up with the pipe from drainpipe A if the latter is under concrete? Sorry for the basic questions but this thread doesn't have the words "technically challenged" in the title for no reason. I've uploaded a couple of photos of the area as it currently looks. Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ The following is a picture of drainpipes B and C so you can see that the pipe from drainpipe B to the tank will be running above the concrete. Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Re: Water tanks for the technically challenged 62Oct 10, 2022 8:35 pm Liliana I was assuming the Thintank would receive the first load of water and the round tank would be the settling tank. The water is diverted to a tank where it settles over the next few days. This is the settling tank. I have assumed that the thin tank, being closest to the pump, would supply the pump with the transferred decanted water. Liliana The distance from the small wall to the drainpipe (not including the drainpipe) is 57cm. Thanks. Plenty of room. Liliana Also we aren't going to have a footpath bordered with grass/dirt verges to run a pipe under - the whole area is going to be concreted, so we would be laying the pipe under the concrete and up through the concrete into the tanks?? And how would the pipe from drainpipe B meet up with the pipe from drainpipe A if the latter is under concrete? The following is a picture of drainpipes B and C so you can see that the pipe from drainpipe B to the tank will be running above the concrete. Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Fortunately we are working with small pipes. Are those loose white stones in the photo? If so, what is under them? I would assume an ag pipe but I can't see a silt trap. How would you feel about having the 25mm (33.5mm OD) pipe from DP B running along the wall & concrete intersect? Your diagram actually shows this. The water has to be diverted back to the pump, this entails a second pipe. 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Re: Water tanks for the technically challenged 63Oct 11, 2022 8:24 am Hi Save H20, Yes I can see the sense in having the tank closest to the pump supplying the water for the washing machine. So there aren't any concerns about the tank receiving the first load of water from the Supadivertas being that distance away? That would be a relief because we don't want the round tank any closer to the house because the space is tight and I also don't want to concrete the easement. The white "stones" are actually shredded paper! My husband's attempt to stop weeds growing there while we organise the landscaping and there is no agi pipe. My diagram does show the pipes from drainpipe A and B joining together before reaching the tanks but, in my imagination, they were above the concrete. I feel really uncomfortable about running pipes under concrete given our experiences with the wet system we had. Lastly, yes of course - we need pipes going back to the pump!!!! Serious design flaw. Re: Water tanks for the technically challenged 64Oct 12, 2022 3:29 pm Liliana So there aren't any concerns about the tank receiving the first load of water from the Supadivertas being that distance away? No. Friction loss varies with the velocity, pipe size and length. 95% of your rainfall will be drizzle or light showers which has negligible friction loss but during heavier rain, DP A & B will be recharging the friction/pressure losses in the 50mm pipe that the Class 9 25mm (30.5 mm ID) pressure pipe will connect to. Because the rainwater passes through the Supadiverta's 750 micron filter, it can discharge directly into the tank via the low restriction inlet The head pressure in the Supadiverta syphonic system is governed by the tank's water level, not by the usual wet system vertical riser above the tank. The emptier the tank is, the more hydraulic head there is to generate higher flow rates which is a pretty good situation to have. People often confuse the pressure exerted by the water in the tank Vs the weight of the water. The video below is worth watching. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlvHczb ... L&index=26 Liliana The white "stones" are actually shredded paper! My husband's attempt to stop weeds growing there while we organise the landscaping and there is no agi pipe. You could run the pipe on top of whatever is there, no problem plus it is easily altered. Liliana My diagram does show the pipes from drainpipe A and B joining together before reaching the tanks but, in my imagination, they were above the concrete. I feel really uncomfortable about running pipes under concrete given our experiences with the wet system we had. It's only a 25 mm pipe which won't have much aesthetic detriment. There is a huge difference between the Supadiverta system and the standard wet system you had last time. Last time you had flimsy 90mm stormwater pipes (walls are 1.9 mm thick) used in a charged/wet system on reactive soil whereas the smaller pressure pipes and their fittings are much stronger. The VBA recommends using the stronger 100 mm (104 mm ID) DWV pipes in charged systems but that is all it is, a recommendation. The obvious downside to having flooded larger pipes is their grossly inadequate sediment flushing velocity. All standard wet systems are substandard because they accrue sludge, retain large amount of water between rain events, deliver lower quality water to the tank, waste water when drained, operate with a hydraulic head governed by the height of a vertical riser above the tank and the high level discharge resuspend sediments when the tank's water level starts to get low. Liliana Lastly, yes of course - we need pipes going back to the pump!!!! Serious design flaw. You can plumb a 25 mm pressure pipe over to the pump and have flexible 25mm UV stabilised hose at both ends. This is way better than most systems that mistakenly use 25 mm Blue Stripe poly that has a 21 mm ID and is often connected to a 90 degree elbow at the pump's suction port! Obviously make sure that there is a straight run of hose that respects 5-8 IDs immediately before the pump's suction port, I just noticed in the concrete path photo, how mush gap is there on the LHS between DP B and the window? 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Re: Water tanks for the technically challenged 65Oct 13, 2022 12:56 pm Hi again Save H20 There is an 84cm gap on the left hand side between the window and Drainpipe B. Drainpipe C is very close to the boundary though. Is this going to be a problem for fitting a Supadiverta? Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Also the ground level actually slopes up a bit from Drainpipe C to the tank. Does this matter? Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ So, if the pipes are going under the concrete, we are going to have to lay them before they do the pouring. And this also means we are going to have to give the landscaper very accurate measurements for everything. Is the pressure pipe back to the pump also going under the concrete? And how much straight run of hose will we need for the pump? Also I'm not really clear what this sediment trap is going to consist of. You wouldn't have any pictures would you? Re: Water tanks for the technically challenged 66Oct 14, 2022 11:28 am The Supadiverta body is reversible but it will have to extend to the left of the downpipe. The three outlets are easily converged into a single pipe (usually larger) when needed. You do this by using a 45 degree wye and a 45 degree elbow to merge each pipe. This was a prerequisite in the design stage. Liliana Also the ground level actually slopes up a bit from Drainpipe C to the tank. Does this matter? Not at all. The pipes will be sized to have an adequate flushing velocity during heavier rain. High velocity generates turbulent flow. Liliana So, if the pipes are going under the concrete, we are going to have to lay them before they do the pouring. As per the concreted areas described, yes. The pipe risers will also need lagging, particularly with you being on highly reactive soil. Liliana Is the pressure pipe back to the pump also going under the concrete? And how much straight run of hose will we need for the pump? Yes unless you want to have an exposed pipe on top of the concrete. The suction hose should respect 8 IDs (internal diameters) of straight hose immediately before the pump's suction port. Liliana Also I'm not really clear what this sediment trap is going to consist of. You wouldn't have any pictures would you? Bed load clumps in small 'colonies' that occasionally (velocity permitting) break off at the front and travel to the next colony where the action is repeated. It is much like watching a single relay team practice. In time there will be a single long line of bed load that will continue to grow. The sediment trap is basically a hole in the pipe's 'floor' that allows the bed load to fall down and be later flushed. They are very effective and are made from off the shelf fittings. When flushing, you will always see the water turn dark for a moment then clear again. That is when you know to stop the discharge. The photo below shows a 25mm trap that captures sediment moving from left to right. A 45 degree wye has a larger branch than a 90 degree tee. A 45 degree elbow is angled so it diverts the water away from the pipe. A 19mm poly pipe is fitted with an inline valve at the end to release the water and bed load. The pipe is size reduced to increase the flushing velocity and also to save water. The fitting nearest the poly pipe has a female thread at one end and is called a faucet coupling. A 20mm barbed x 3/4" male thread connects the faucet coupling to the poly pipe. There are several variations - depending on pipe size. I want to publicise it to the rural community as they improve the water quality, substantially reduce yield loss and also reduce the amount of sludge in the water tank.There are nearly 700,000 houses in Australia that are not connected to a mains water or town water supply and invariably every drop counts. Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Re: Water tanks for the technically challenged 67Oct 15, 2022 1:39 pm I've done some more thinking about my proposed setup and I think trying to connect drainpipe C to the tanks is going to be problematic. Even if we can attach the Supadiverta to the left of the drainpipe and merge the pipes into one so as to avoid the garage door, when we reach the pavement we are going to bump into the drainpipe which sits between the supadiverta pipe and the fence. Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ I was wondering whether a better solution would be to leave Drainpipe C out of the equation altogether and feed Drainpipes A, B and D to the poly tank. This is drain pipe D which is situated on the north side of the house. Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ The only thing I'm not sure of is how many times you can go around corners with the pipes??? My revised plan would look like this. Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ The distance from gutter to the ground for drainpipe D is presently 2.74m and the drainpipe is 53cm from the window and 42cm from the corner not including the drainpipe. Re: Water tanks for the technically challenged 68Oct 15, 2022 4:47 pm I had thought that DP (C) would have followed the fence and had two 45 degree elbows to make a smooth transition but your upgraded plan is simpler and neater. One thing to remember is that the Supadiverta can be used to remotely connect to a tank's infeed (carrier) pipe whenever needed, i.e. when the water levels are low and there is no rain apart from light showers. I do this with my highest yield downpipe which is at the house back corner diagonally opposite my main tank at the front corner but it has been a while since I have had the need. I use an 18mm garden hose (19mm poly pipe is also fine) and a 19mm sprinkler adaptor and inline tap fitted to short (nominal) 20mm pressure pipe extensions at the end of the two larger connecting pipes. Connecting a larger hose during heavier rain would be pointless in my case because the larger carrier pipe is already servicing 3 Supadivertas. Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. That was always going to be a challenge and a test of patience. Full marks to your mate. Did you discuss the wet area near the trampoline? 16 17419 This certainly doesn't look good. I would be engaging with an independent inspector to have a look at this. As for the unscheduled site visits, most builders are quite… 1 28428 |