Building in Adelaide wth Oakford - PCI
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But the cabinetmaker is talking around $1000 extra to do the shadow line, based on the cost of putting aluminium edging in there. So then I was thinking of just doing a simple overhang in the 20mm stone:
The overhang keeps water spills of the cabinetwork better, but does give sharper corners to run into. A problem with this is that because the cabinetmaker thinks the post is tricky to make (ie, expensive) I was going to add the post myself, but as far as they're concerned it leaves the 20mm stone unsupported on the limit of its allowable overhang.
I also discovered that our bathroom benches will be 550mm deep based on the available basins (unless we hassle around), meaning we can't get the island and a bathroom bench out of one slab anyhow, so it's looking like 3 slabs in total. Given that, it may be fairly economical to go up to 40mm edges:
Or another option would be a slab end and not need the post.
With all the options around I can't get them to quote on everything, so I need to weed out the best candidates. I'm leaning towards 40mm as the first preference, or just the 20mm with simple overhang if it's a lot cheaper. I'm interested if anyone has thoughts on what migh work best here though.
We're planning on Caesarstone Ocean Foam as the benchtop colour, and the doors are a polytec sheen.
And would go 40mm (which is what we are doing but we have no stone in bathrooms.... )
The engineer wants the block watered, so my next job is to get some irrigation pipe out onto it to start turning it into mud. Hopefully the top will dry out quickly enough, or the builders won't be having much fun cutting those 900 deep footings.
Thanks - it's mainly the price keeping us from the 40mm, but it may come down to 40mm with the post vs 20mm with the waterfall end. The waterfall end is a more refined look, but I do kind of like how the post opens up the bar area into the rest of the room. So many things to choose..
Love your 3D renders
As far as the options.. Horses for courses..
I personally don't like the post. It just looks flimsy.
I love the waterfall ends (slab ends).
Instead of going 40mm try 30mm. 40mm is only 2 x 20mm laminated together around the edges where as 30mm (in quantum Quartz at least) is full slab thickness. No laminations and would probably span that distance better.
I'm a bit disappointed at costs mounting up. Extra plumbing is turning out to be quite expensive, and the builder doesn't include wall sarking as standard, so that's another $1200 or so. Still, at this stage it's mainly a matter of paying the money and let them go with it.
I'm still a bit worried about the mortar for the bricks. I was after off-white cement with light yellow sand, but the builder won't do light yellow: only brickies yellow, or white sand. I've seed the brickies yellow version, and it's too dark for what I want, so it looks like the white sand, but just hoping it doesn't turn out too grey compared to the bricks. Oh well..
It's good to take your time to try and reduce regrets later. Just waiting a month between slab and frame have already had multiple moments of...we should have added.......look forward to further news.
I'm hoping the mortar will actually come out lighter than I've drawn there, to be more a colour match for the brick. I would have gone for a light yellow sand, but the builder won't do that: they only do a white sand or a strong yellow sand. So we're down to white sand and off-white cement, and hoping it's not too grey against the brick.
Then the membrane and reo in on Friday:
They're planning on pouring on Monday. Overall, things look pretty much in shape, but could always be better. The lagging on a couple of sewer pipes doesn't fill the full trench. It covers the original beam size, but with the trench widening from falling soil there are areas where the concrete may be able to grip the pipe. I mentioned this to the SS before the plastic went in, but nothings seems to have happened.
Some of the reo is sitting in the bottom of the trenches where it has sagged. They may likely lift it up in time for the pour, which would be fairly easy, but its hard to see any sort of guarantee that will actually happen. So much of the final quality of the job will be determined by what happens on the day of the pour, so inspecting beforehand can only do so much.
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