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Has anyone here done a non standard staircase for Washington series home besides the wooden and glass staircase displayed at the Washington 32 display home at gregory hills. Just want to know other options.
Thank you.
Hi there, we are buidling a modified W29 and we upgraded the staircase. We went with glass balustrades, steel posts, timber stained handrails. The bottom two steps are bullnoses (which wrap around the staircase) the rest of the steps are carpeted. The whole thing is costing 6.5K.
Hi everyone,
We are building a double storey and our timber frame went up last week and is just sitting there through this pouring rain. Does anyone know if the timber will be affected by the rain? I'm particularly worried about the wooden upper flooring.
Another question - what does a 'downlight provision' actually give you - is it the wiring and the cutout for the downlight?
Thanks.
It just gives you a bayonet light installed at the future location of the downlight. you'll need to have the 90mm cutout done later, along with installing a plug base or hard wire your downlight.
Thanks Extreme. Pardon my ignorance here, but for a room in which you'd require 4 downlights would you put in 4 provisions or just one and have the electrician run the rest of the wiring later?
Im assuming this would only work for the top storey where there is access to the ceiling and that wisdom would need to install all downstairs downlights?
Hi everyone,
We are building a double storey and our timber frame went up last week and is just sitting there through this pouring rain. Does anyone know if the timber will be affected by the rain? I'm particularly worried about the wooden upper flooring.
No, the flooring can withstand being fully submersed for 3 months. A little bit of rain won't hurt it...given the frame is treated pine, it too will be ok!
Another question - what does a 'downlight provision' actually give you - is it the wiring and the cutout for the downlight?
Thanks.
It just gives you a bayonet light installed at the future location of the downlight. you'll need to have the 90mm cutout done later, along with installing a plug base or hard wire your downlight.
Thanks Extreme. Pardon my ignorance here, but for a room in which you'd require 4 downlights would you put in 4 provisions or just one and have the electrician run the rest of the wiring later?
Im assuming this would only work for the top storey where there is access to the ceiling and that wisdom would need to install all downstairs downlights?
(Upstairs)My advice would be to have your 1 light per room put in a location where a future down light will be.
(Downstairs) have downright provisions put in at every future point where you intend on having a downlight installed. These can be swapped over to a downlight fairly easy as the wiring will already be there.
Has anyone here done a non standard staircase for Washington series home besides the wooden and glass staircase displayed at the Washington 32 display home at gregory hills. Just want to know other options.
Thank you.
Hi there, we are buidling a modified W29 and we upgraded the staircase. We went with glass balustrades, steel posts, timber stained handrails. The bottom two steps are bullnoses (which wrap around the staircase) the rest of the steps are carpeted. The whole thing is costing 6.5K.
Thanks mate! Do you have any photos of the proposed design and look of it?
Thanks Extreme for the advice re the downlights. That's very helpful.
(Upstairs)My advice would be to have your 1 light per room put in a location where a future down light will be.
(Downstairs) have downright provisions put in at every future point where you intend on having a downlight installed. These can be swapped over to a downlight fairly easy as the wiring will already be there.[/quote]
If you go with wisdom for installing downlights, does it include the switches? I asked a colleague of mine who is building a house and he is the owner builder. He got a contractor to install his downlights and cost him $60 per lights + $25 for the actual downlight unit and another $25 for the switch. If wisdom is charging $125 per downlight, is it much better to have it installed with them? Or have it done post hand over?
Lou_butterfly i am sooooooo jealous. We were ready to lodge at the start of March but as we are in a heritage zone Wisdom wanted a pre-lodgement meeting. It took council nearly 8 weeks to schedule a date by which time i was ready to loose my mind.
We were told the advantage of this was that we could come to agreements with everything and when we lodge our DA it would go through easily. Council changed their minds on everything we had agreed to once we lodged, had to re-draw everything and re-lodge - we were only approved a week ago & council effectively made us loose 4 mths with there abysmal service.
I wonder who gets started first you or us?
cheers Lou
wow!! That is a very long wait!! I hope you have gotten it all sorted now. It must have been so painful waiting.
With risk of a big jinx, we have been pretty lucky so far. The tender process was excruciately slow but other than that our appointments, council and our CSO has been very good. I hope it all keeps going this well. Or at least no major problems.
Wish you all the best and hope we can both be building soon!!
Hi everyone,
We are building a double storey and our timber frame went up last week and is just sitting there through this pouring rain. Does anyone know if the timber will be affected by the rain? I'm particularly worried about the wooden upper flooring.
No, the flooring can withstand being fully submersed for 3 months. A little bit of rain won't hurt it...given the frame is treated pine, it too will be ok!
Thanks. I have been doing quite a bit of research on this and it confirms what you say.
Has anyone here done a non standard staircase for Washington series home besides the wooden and glass staircase displayed at the Washington 32 display home at gregory hills. Just want to know other options.
Thank you.
Hi there, we are buidling a modified W29 and we upgraded the staircase. We went with glass balustrades, steel posts, timber stained handrails. The bottom two steps are bullnoses (which wrap around the staircase) the rest of the steps are carpeted. The whole thing is costing 6.5K.
Thanks mate! Do you have any photos of the proposed design and look of it?
Yep, here you go:
http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah80/paadthai25b/Stairs_zps8hwl5pnw.jpg
Thank you imtellinya! appreciate it
Looks great!
Hi Everyone,
We are in the process of revising the tender before acceptance.
Has anyone considered upgrading their roof insulation from 3.5 to 4? Or upgrading insulation where there is cladding?
Any views will be appreciated.
Thanks
Hi Everyone,
We are in the process of revising the tender before acceptance.
Has anyone considered upgrading their roof insulation from 3.5 to 4? Or upgrading insulation where there is cladding?
Any views will be appreciated.
Thanks
No need, the cladding has an R value of 1, the sarking has and R value of 1.2, add that the batts at an R value of 2.5... It's plenty!
Ceilings have 3.5 plus sarking at R1.2... Again plenty... You wouldn't get the benefit to cost for 0.5...
My 2c
We found that they installed 4.1 batts anyway.
No, the flooring can withstand being fully submersed for 3 months. A little bit of rain won't hurt it...given the frame is treated pine, it too will be ok!
Knowitall,
While the floorboards are designed to withstand rain for 3 months, we quickly found out, along with everyone else building a double storey in this rain, that the floor boards are 'peaking' at the edge where they join up. It means that there are small little bumps wherever the floor boards meet. I spoke to the SS about this and he said that they will the sand them all before carpeting or when the bricking and roof is complete. It is a common problem with project builders who use the industry standard floor board and it rains.
Has anyone else had problems with this?
You also have to watch out and make sure the carpenters have screwed the floorboards to the joists and not just glued them. I inspected and found that in one section of the flooring the screws missed the joist entirely and are just sitting there not having penetrated anything. Walking around that section of the upper floor is as squeaky as hell.
They will definitely be doing something about this
[/quote]
No need, the cladding has an R value of 1, the sarking has and R value of 1.2, add that the batts at an R value of 2.5... It's plenty!
Ceilings have 3.5 plus sarking at R1.2... Again plenty... You wouldn't get the benefit to cost for 0.5...
My 2c[/quote]
Thanks Knowitall and Extreme for the tip. It's really good to know.
No, the flooring can withstand being fully submersed for 3 months. A little bit of rain won't hurt it...given the frame is treated pine, it too will be ok!
Knowitall,
While the floorboards are designed to withstand rain for 3 months, we quickly found out, along with everyone else building a double storey in this rain, that the floor boards are 'peaking' at the edge where they join up. It means that there are small little bumps wherever the floor boards meet. I spoke to the SS about this and he said that they will the sand them all before carpeting or when the bricking and roof is complete. It is a common problem with project builders who use the industry standard floor board and it rains.
Has anyone else had problems with this?
You also have to watch out and make sure the carpenters have screwed the floorboards to the joists and not just glued them. I inspected and found that in one section of the flooring the screws missed the joist entirely and are just sitting there not having penetrated anything. Walking around that section of the upper floor is as squeaky as hell.
They will definitely be doing something about this
Correct! As for squeaky boards. It's easy to miss a screw or two. Also easy to fix. The flooring is screwed and glued which is good! Just needs the carpenter to go back and put a few screws in and that will solve the problem. Let the SS know and I'm sure he can get it attended to. I do believe they check this at some point (before carpet) to make sure there are no squeaks...
Hi Everyone,
We are in the process of revising the tender before acceptance.
Has anyone considered upgrading their roof insulation from 3.5 to 4? Or upgrading insulation where there is cladding?
Any views will be appreciated.
Thanks
Hey Addie, we got them to quote increasing the ceiling insulation to R4 & R5. R4 was $410 R5 was $1625. We are doing a single storey 36-37 square house.
I know with colorbond they advised us that the anticon has an R value of 1. The sarking for tiles the brochure stated that it could be up to R1.8 - we had to switch from colorbond to tiles.
We upgraded to R4 as I thought that wasn't such a huge sum (we are doing at KDR and our current house has MAJOR insulation problems so we have probably over insulated if that is possible). But the R5 was not value for money.
Hope that helps
Hi Everyone,
We are in the process of revising the tender before acceptance.
Has anyone considered upgrading their roof insulation from 3.5 to 4? Or upgrading insulation where there is cladding?
Any views will be appreciated.
Thanks
Hey Addie, we got them to quote increasing the ceiling insulation to R4 & R5. R4 was $410 R5 was $1625. We are doing a single storey 36-37 square house.
I know with colorbond they advised us that the anticon has an R value of 1. The sarking for tiles the brochure stated that it could be up to R1.8 - we had to switch from colorbond to tiles.
We upgraded to R4 as I thought that wasn't such a huge sum (we are doing at KDR and our current house has MAJOR insulation problems so we have probably over insulated if that is possible). But the R5 was not value for money.
Hope that helps
Thanks LouR, it is very helpful. I'm the same. Just making sure that we will be properly insulated. Did you still upgrade wall insulation?