Things you forget - summary page 32

Not sure if it's on the list but making the garage door 2400mm high rather than the standard 2100mm to allow 4WD's/roof racks/work vans etc to use the garage.

Not sure if this has already been mentioned but:

Check your driveway gradient as soon as possible and especially if you're planning on doing it after handover.

Having your builder provide a greater step down to the garage might save you costs and/or give you a better more usable driveway.

We had two tenders done, one from a builder that included the driveway and the other didn't. The builder that included it obviously went for the most cost effective option but also means we don't have a huge slope.

This is the one thing I wished I had did for the house I am building now

to get more room in the bedrooms place the robes under the eaves of the house.

Get the plumber to put it or make provision for extra garden taps.

Wonderful resource - thank you - it'll take me about 6 months to study though

We have made our garage with a lower pad to the main house so you step up into the house. Now has a 2700mm height (rest of house is 2500mm) Had to also get a longer garage door.
Approx cost $2500
All for the 4WD lol

If you wanted to get exactly what you wanted regarding all these changes in this thread, you'd be looking at ALOT of extra money. You'll be surprised how much it adds up. Choose necessities!

Maybe yazgc but a lot of them would add to the capital value of your home. I know with garages a lot of people these days have 4WD's or a tradies van so the extra height would be a good investment.

Stewie

I am paying $450 for an 86mm drop to the garage. I know its not 200mm like yours, but I would have thought the price would not be near $2.5k...

We had our Tender appointment a few days ago and there where some things I was disappointed that they couldnt help us with on our build.

1- Our slab needs the block to be leveled. They are only willing to level the foot print of the slab and no more. I asked if we could pay extra to have the block leveled right to the boundary and they said they couldnt do it. This means ill need to hire a bobcat once the house is done and do it my self (no biggie).

2- Had to pay an extra $450 to have an 86mm step down to the garage. Lucky for this forum it prompted me to ask about this. When I looked at the tender document it said level slab to garage, even though the front of my slab will be slightly raised due to the fall.

3-Asked about an upgraded anticon sarking for the color bond roof ant they said they dont offer any upgrade sarking. Just the standard one for $2.5k. I will be confirming this with them as I am not sure I believe this....

4-We liked the 750mm push pull front entrance door handle on display at WL, but this is not available for selection. They have a slightly similar one which is thin and round (not square like displayed) which is $573. Im not too keen on paying this much for something im not 100% liking. We are going to doors plus today to price up a front door and are thinking of getting the standard included one, then changing later on with the handle we are happy with.

4- They are telling me they cannot put a cavity door to the butlers/kitchen doorway. Only willing to do a hinged door... Would really like a sliding door here and will be confirming this with them....

5- Was told they cannot put the washing machine taps in the cupdoard. I wanted them hidden as they look quite ugly exposed. The best they can do is locate them at under bench height. But im worried they will stick out too far and not let the machine sit all the way under the bench... Not possible due to some standards which I will again be confirming...

6- Have seen some Amalfi's built with really ugly front down pipes on the front facade. I asked if this could be excluded and drained to the lower section of the roof but was told "No". Was assured down pipe will be tucked nicely as per drawing....

7-Was told Hot water service cannot be recessed into wall.

8- Was told the fuse box cannot be put in the garage, although it was mentioned in a thread on here that it can be done (might be state specific)...?

9- Wanted them to leave off a kitchen cupboard as i will be fitting a sliding bin myself (not wanting to pay them ~$500 to do it) but am told they are unable to leave one off and must handover a "complete" build. This is weird as they are leaving our skirting boards off for us to do timber floor boards...?

10- Was told manhole cant be put in garage. Will be asking this question again.

11- Was told range hood height is 907mm from floor. Didnt click at the time but wrote it down. Will be double checking...

12- Was told tiles in wet spaced are not sealed and they do not offer this as an option.


They are the things I will be discussing with them before the contract appointment.


Anyone have any experience an any of these I would appreciate your input.

Thanks

If your washing machines taps are behind your machine it would make it very difficult to turn the taps off in a hurry. We have a front loader under the bench and the taps are located in the cupboard next to it, which was very handy as the washing machine connection wasn't connected properly at installation and we needed to turn it off as it was flooding the laundry, the front loader was half filled with water and there was no way i could of moved it.

That's how we want it! Is your house an Amalfi? Are you in Victoria?

I'm guessing here, but I take it that you wanted it all in the garage ?

You need to have the main breakers and of course the meters on the outside wall, but you can then go from there to put a circuit breaker 'box' on the inside of the garage. This is what we are doing, meter box on outside wall, all the breakers after that on the inside wall.

Are you building in VIC? Did this cost extra? Thanks in advance.

Sorry, I thought my .signature would show I was owner building in Qld.

Yes, it is a tiny bit more expensive, as you have a separate circuit breaker board, but the cost of that board isn't much.

Sadly though these project builders will charge you a hell of a lot more than the actual costs involved.

But to get back on topic with this particular thread, separate the circuit breaker board from the meter box by putting it in to the garage space.

Hi Guys,

First time home builder here, loving some of the suggestions.

Not sure if this has already been covered but I wanted to see if anyone has any suggestions in regard to enclosing theatre rooms. The design I am currently working with had the theatre room open with only 3 walls (not really a theatre...) I am looking at putting 2 small "nib" walls on the 4th wall (facing into the hall way), which will allow for a recess for 2 large frosted glass sliding doors to sit in. My idea here was that it becomes a useable theatre, as well as a potential 4th bedroom.

Has anyone tried to make a "multi purpose room " like this ?

Also - Does anyone have anything positive to say about WA housing centre ? currently shopping around and I really like the package they have put together for me and the customer service so far...... But I have read some horror stories.

Are you talking about wanting a theatre with double doors? Instead of an open one?

I am building the ivy 4 with new living homes and have replaced the large open wall with a double cavity slider. A theatre room isn't a theatre room unless it can be blocked off

We are doing the same. The room can also be a guest room if it has the ability to be closed off. We also added cavity doors to other areas of the house for heating and cooling efficiency. An open plan is nice but not always practical.

Not sure if this has been mentioned but one of the things we arranged for was double shelf and rail in the WIR.
We had it in a previous house and it was great. So hubby can have the row at the bottom, wife can have the top and with this new house we have 3 walls that have shelving so we left the shortest wall with one rail for dresses and suits etc

Another thing we did was put insulation in the garage roof. If you use your garage to tinker or have gym equipment etc in it then it is well worth it.

My thoughts exactly on closing it off !
Sorry for the novice question, but what exactly do you mean by a 'cavity' slider. Does that mean the slider door recesses inside of the wall ? as in between 2 courses of brick