Things you forget - summary page 32

theanonyuser · Jul 12, 2012 6:12 pm

It's already in the summary but:
Check your kitchen diagrams. My diagrams didn't show a pot drawer, and I actually don't have one in the kitchen

Soft closing cupboards - Check the price with your builder. I've found that you *can* get the real soft-close style with replacement hinges for the cupboards/draws on ebay. But this does involve some effort as you may have to re-attach the hinge.

alt0160 · Jul 12, 2012 6:54 pm

If you are going to install cabinetry in your laundry after handover, make sure the vent is positioned so that it wont be covered by future cabinetry :/

zahirarose · Jul 13, 2012 2:39 am

From my first house build. Make sure there's at least two double GPO's in each bedroom, think computers, phone chargers etc. In the kitchen make sure there's at least 2 - 3 extra double GPOs for kettle, toaster, micro, cooking gadgets etc.

Don't forget three large pot drawers, 1 for pots, 1 for bakery equipment and the other for Tupperware

Use a tape measure to measure out each room to double check sizes and your furniture going in them.

We forgot to allow 10% over the cost price for fudge factor and adjustments - Lesson one to self - always check that the kitchen allowance includes top cupboards. That hurt the budget a fair bit ::cry::

Thank you all for your great ideas as well. I'm squirreling these away for my next build.

LynneY · Jul 15, 2012 3:25 pm

This is such a cool thread! :-)

1sthome · Jul 15, 2012 3:55 pm

Now I have frameless showers creens installed, with silicon down the sides between the glass and wall, it would have been better to have inset channels in the wall before the tiles went in.

That way less mould issues and less maintenance with the silicon.

Would have needed much more planning and experience to get it right though. Not really how they get it spot on so that the glass just fits into the channel at the top and bottom of the pane once all the tiles are in.

Might do it in 15 years if I build another bathroom.

Danois · Jul 17, 2012 4:40 pm

First post and everything, but I read with horror that people were using steel wool in holes to stop vermin getting in.

Steel wool, contrary to common sense (lol), will burn vigorously if there's (enough) oxygen present. A "party trick" (don't actually do it a party), is to tie some steel wool to a a piece of wire, take a 1.5V battery to it. It will ignite. Then, swing it around to provide it with oxygen and you'll have a shower of molten metal - a sort of a hillbilly fireworks display.

My point is, if you're using it somewhere where a small spark or heat from electrical wire can get to it, there's a real risk of fire. If you're using it somewhere where fresh oxygen can get to it (wind or the like), you're setting yourself up for a fire.

If you don't believe me, do a google search for "igniting steel wool".

With that said, I'm considering building a small cabin/cottage somewhere in Oz to use as a summer house, and this thread has been absolutely great for me, since I come from Denmark and we do things quite differently to Australians.

Vatche · Jul 17, 2012 6:06 pm

Danois

First post and everything, but I read with horror that people were using steel wool in holes to stop vermin getting in.

Steel wool, contrary to common sense (lol), will burn vigorously if there's (enough) oxygen present. A "party trick" (don't actually do it a party), is to tie some steel wool to a a piece of wire, take a 1.5V battery to it. It will ignite. Then, swing it around to provide it with oxygen and you'll have a shower of molten metal - a sort of a hillbilly fireworks display.

My point is, if you're using it somewhere where a small spark or heat from electrical wire can get to it, there's a real risk of fire. If you're using it somewhere where fresh oxygen can get to it (wind or the like), you're setting yourself up for a fire.

If you don't believe me, do a google search for "igniting steel wool".

With that said, I'm considering building a small cabin/cottage somewhere in Oz to use as a summer house, and this thread has been absolutely great for me, since I come from Denmark and we do things quite differently to Australians.

There are fire resistant metal mesh that can be used to stop vermin. The ones we have are so small in mesh size, even flies cannot come in. Ask about them at your fire protection businesses.

If you don't need the air flow, use expanding foam spray.

Danois · Jul 17, 2012 10:41 pm

Vatche

There are fire resistant metal mesh that can be used to stop vermin. The ones we have are so small in mesh size, even flies cannot come in. Ask about them at your fire protection businesses.

If you don't need the air flow, use expanding foam spray.

Yup - a much better idea than roughed up Brillo pads.

shaaralee · Jul 18, 2012 3:43 pm

All of this info is so helpful! We've been going through our plans trying to ensure we have things where we need them so looking at this now is perfect

Kauristumps · Jul 20, 2012 2:22 pm

Noggins along laundry wall for hanging school bags and jackets.

misswright · Jul 26, 2012 8:04 pm

Whilst upgrading to a timber staircase ($4k) we forgot to double check what the verticles were on the balustrade only to find once installed they are yukky powder coated metal. First job post move in is to take them out!
As someone who used to be an interior designer I was very cranky with myself when I realised I had overlooked in the elevations that our overheads cupboards had exposed gables - a pet hate of mine! Fortunately the colour of the cupboards means that it doesn't stand out too much.

SunshineT · Aug 04, 2012 7:28 pm

If you are thinking of 2400 high windows, keep in mind that you can't get off the rack window dressings.

We have lots of 2400 windows - they look great, and we budgeted for the extra cost of higher windows but we foolishly didn't realise that off-the-rack blinds have a standard drop of 2100, which means we have to get ours all custom made. I love the 2400 windows, but if I was doing it again I was assess more closely the quantity bearing in mind the back-end window dressing costs as well as the window size upgrade! :roll:

donna61 · Aug 15, 2012 10:18 pm

Think twice about semi frame-less shower screens, they look wonderful but your floors will always be wet

I am actually downgrading to framed shower doors in my spec.

theanonyuser · Aug 15, 2012 11:11 pm

donna61

Think twice about semi frame-less shower screens, they look wonderful but your floors will always be wet

Is that from experience? A friend at work did a renovation and got the frameless shower screen and didn't have any issues with the floor getting wet

I went semi-frameless/framed.

donna61 · Aug 16, 2012 11:01 am

theanonyuser

donna61

Think twice about semi frame-less shower screens, they look wonderful but your floors will always be wet

Is that from experience? A friend at work did a renovation and got the frameless shower screen and didn't have any issues with the floor getting wet

I went semi-frameless/framed.

Yes it is, also friends have had same result. I also like the bright silver framed anyway.

Just_Me · Aug 17, 2012 12:03 am

Just wanted to say thanks very much to everyone that has contributed to this list. It is a great checklist to have pre-build!!
One thing I thought I would add is a bin cupboard in the kitchen. Some builders will put a 'bin drawer' in so you can supply the bin after handover or you can get it including a bin. So much better than having the dirty bin on the floor in the kitchen.

bignewadventure · Aug 17, 2012 6:17 pm

Check, check and check windows on plans ... not only position of windows, but also size and height.

We have upstairs bedroom windows that are so high that my 10yr won't be able to see out of them without getting on her tiptoes. My kitchen window was so high initially that I couldn't see out the backyard. We fixed/lowered that at frame stage, but we didn't get upstairs until gyprock stage so can't do anything about the upstairs windows now.

Also check size - we have a lovely floor to ceiling window in powder room. Missed it completely at plan stage. Now we have a loo with a view

We also have a small window over our staircase that would have looked heaps better if it was 3x the size. And a fixed window in the bedroom where we should have had an opening window.

check, check and check before you start!

SunshineT · Aug 17, 2012 6:26 pm

ditto about checking windows. We also overlooked stipulating how high (or low) from the floor we wanted windows, which can dictate furniture. Luckily our builder was flexible to allow us to raise some windows as we wanted to be able to fit a bed or desk underneath the windows (or at least have the option in the future). Also check that the window position on the wall is balanced in the room. For example, a window in our master which is visible as you walk down the hall was off centre which looked quite wonky (as you only saw 3/4 of the window as you approached). Luckily we were also able to change that at frame stage, but most builders don't let you (or charge a fortune) which means it is essential to look at all that during plan stage...

greenfish · Aug 20, 2012 1:26 pm

Also check which way windows open. We went quite a few tilt & Turn windows but I neglected to consider which way they open up, so have windows opening into traffice areas etc

leighton · Aug 20, 2012 1:41 pm

strange about the electrical. at clark new homes we draw up an electrical plan for lighting and power points showing where it all goes. then the client adds or changes what they want, and then we redraw it all again properly. dont know how else you could do it. cheerio