Browse Forums Building A New House Re: House Orientation - Cool house in summer, warm in winter 181Jun 12, 2012 8:38 am ^^ Last night got down to nearly 0, yet this morning the house was still above 15c before we fire up the heater. We have a homestead style house with the rear facing NE. We swapped some windows around so that the larger ones were on the back of the house, we have fairly good insulation and don't have eaves-I think they look ridiculous on these style houses! The front of the house will have a verandah installed when budget permits-to block the late afternoon sun in Summer. That same sun is very welcome in Winter! Instead of eaves we have used a combination of pergolas (roofed and un covered-some to be built) and deciduous trees.Cross breezes are easily catered for during the warmer months and we only used the A/C for a total of 4 hours last Summer-on days which were over 40c without breezes. Love my house! Deemaree Kyndylan Capers: viewtopic.php?f=36&t=46852 My blog: http://www.sufficientlysufficient.blogspot.com/ Re: House Orientation - Cool house in summer, warm in winter 182Jun 12, 2012 12:06 pm Deemaree Just thought I'd jump in here and say that although it was quite cold outside today it was between 19 & 22c inside our house WITHOUT the heater on. This is our aim. Sooo hope what we have planned for works (insert fingers crossed icon here) Re: House Orientation - Cool house in summer, warm in winter 183Jun 13, 2012 2:34 pm I have just joined this forum ( see intro ) partly in response to the query re; hydronic underfloor heating and carpets. Central heating is a relatively new concept here in NZ too. Following extensive research, mainly from UK/US websites, we have installed hydronic underfloor heating under all tiled areas of our new build, and in carpeted rooms we have opted for radiators. I was not convinced the underfloor heating would be effective under a densely woven carpet and quality underlay. I also like the concept of enjoying the heat emanating from the radiators - with the bonus of the radiators making handy sock dryers! Hopefully we have made a wise decision - won't know until next winter. Re: House Orientation - Cool house in summer, warm in winter 184Jun 13, 2012 5:25 pm Hi Kauristumps, welcome I have no doubt you have made a wise decision, one that we considered but decided against mainly due to cost and the fact that it is relatively new here still, building is stressful enough already and I really wanted a log fire (will be gas). Just got our star rating which has come in at 7.9 https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=43937&start=0 Bought a block in Golden Grove - Jan 2011 Finally finished our design, Mar 2012, *yay* Signed with ADH council consent June 12 Re: House Orientation - Cool house in summer, warm in winter 185Jun 13, 2012 6:16 pm Kauristumps we have installed hydronic underfloor heating under all tiled areas of our new build, and in carpeted rooms we have opted for radiators. I was not convinced the underfloor heating would be effective under a densely woven carpet and quality underlay. I also like the concept of enjoying the heat emanating from the radiators - with the bonus of the radiators making handy sock dryers! Hopefully we have made a wise decision - won't know until next winter. From what everyone says ... you have. One reason we're not going with the under-floor as well as the radiators is because it involves two water temperatures; under-floor is something like 40 degrees whereas we're told it's 60 degrees for the radiators, so it makes things just a little more complicated; another is because the ground floor is all tiles, and heat rises. We've also found an under-floor brand that now does a system that works for wooden houses (or for when the 1st storey isn't concrete-floor), so we'll hopefully have the under-floor heating on both levels. Something we probably won't be doing, but maybe more relevant to this thread ... is direct solar heating of the water. Because under-floor uses a lower temperature, it's a little better-suited to the vacuum-tube style of heating. I imagine it's more expensive to install than a more conventional gas boiler, or even an air-sourced heat-pump heater; but it must be nice to be having a $0 heating bill. Re: House Orientation - Cool house in summer, warm in winter 186Jun 14, 2012 6:58 am Thank you Dreamcometrue and Forg. We have designed our house with passive heating in mind. Our house is single story and all living areas and a couple of bedrooms face north. Our roof is monopitch and the north facing windows in the living areas are huge - floor to ceiling and double glazed. Im very curious to know if monopitch roofs are popular in Australia? Possibly a tad too sunny mid summer to be practical? Thanks! Re: House Orientation - Cool house in summer, warm in winter 187Jun 14, 2012 5:12 pm kauristumps - can you post some pics of a monopitch roof? Do you mean a skillion roof? SunshineT's Build: viewtopic.php?f=31&t=34585 Designs start: 4/12/09 DA: 5/7/11 Demo: 22/12/11 Slab: 24/2/12 Keys: 31/8/12 Re: House Orientation - Cool house in summer, warm in winter 188Jun 14, 2012 6:16 pm Hi Sunshine T. I've never heard of a skillion roof. I guess a monopitch roof could best be described as an old farm shed style roof ( sounds awful! ). It slopes in one direction only. I'll take a photo tomorrow and see if I can post here. Re: House Orientation - Cool house in summer, warm in winter 189Jun 14, 2012 6:21 pm Kauristumps Hi Sunshine T. I've never heard of a skillion roof. I guess a monopitch roof could best be described as an old farm shed style roof ( sounds awful! ). It slopes in one direction only. I'll take a photo tomorrow and see if I can post here. That sounds a lot like a skillion roof (we have a skillion roof on most of our house, with windows facing north). SunshineT's Build: viewtopic.php?f=31&t=34585 Designs start: 4/12/09 DA: 5/7/11 Demo: 22/12/11 Slab: 24/2/12 Keys: 31/8/12 Re: House Orientation - Cool house in summer, warm in winter 190Jun 14, 2012 6:53 pm Or a raked ceiling - like I have over the living room back to the dining Re: House Orientation - Cool house in summer, warm in winter 191Jun 14, 2012 7:30 pm (I just posted on the LED thread but thought I would post here again in case anyone had any bright ideas) urgent query - we just had insulation installed today. Despite me telling DH about the downlights and insulation issue, it had somehow slipped his mind so our insulation had 200x200 open squares around the down lights (which we learnt tonight is a legal requirement to prevent fire). There are cover / caps available which we are looking into as we don't want to lose 50% of our insulation value... But just wondering - what have others with downlights done with their ceiling insulation? With gaps that wide it completely reduces the effectiveness of insulation... SunshineT's Build: viewtopic.php?f=31&t=34585 Designs start: 4/12/09 DA: 5/7/11 Demo: 22/12/11 Slab: 24/2/12 Keys: 31/8/12 Re: House Orientation - Cool house in summer, warm in winter 193Jun 14, 2012 7:42 pm Forg Hey ... why don't you buy some of those covers, install them, put insulation over the top as per the design ... and let us know if you start losing LED's? Hi Forg - can you clarify - what did you mean "let us know if you start losing LED's"? Wasn't sure if you were being sarcastic? SunshineT's Build: viewtopic.php?f=31&t=34585 Designs start: 4/12/09 DA: 5/7/11 Demo: 22/12/11 Slab: 24/2/12 Keys: 31/8/12 Re: House Orientation - Cool house in summer, warm in winter 194Jun 14, 2012 8:34 pm SunshineT (I just posted on the LED thread but thought I would post here again in case anyone had any bright ideas) urgent query - we just had insulation installed today. Despite me telling DH about the downlights and insulation issue, it had somehow slipped his mind so our insulation had 200x200 open squares around the down lights (which we learnt tonight is a legal requirement to prevent fire). There are cover / caps available which we are looking into as we don't want to lose 50% of our insulation value... But just wondering - what have others with downlights done with their ceiling insulation? With gaps that wide it completely reduces the effectiveness of insulation... Don't waste your money. The gap around the downlight should only be 50mm not 200mm for halogens and for LEDs the insulation can be closer because it doesn't radiate as much heat but they tend to follow same guidelines. Downlights must be 200mm away from timber members - joists/rafters. In general electricians will ask that insulation is 200-300mm away from downlights but it's not necessary. Go to www.icanz.com.au for installer guidelines for insulation. Re: House Orientation - Cool house in summer, warm in winter 195Jun 14, 2012 8:49 pm Quote: I just posted on the LED thread but thought I would post here again in case anyone had any bright ideas BRIGHT IDEAS I can knock you together some boxes out of mdf if you like (when we've finished our place, in about 5 years). We have downlights coming right through the timber. . . oops! Re: House Orientation - Cool house in summer, warm in winter 196Jun 14, 2012 9:32 pm SunshineT Hi Forg - can you clarify - what did you mean "let us know if you start losing LED's"? Wasn't sure if you were being sarcastic? I was being facetious more than sarcastic ... As noted over on the LED Downlights thread, LED's don't get that hot; they only get up to something like 60 degrees, which won't even burn you if you grab one (well - carefully ). If a cover is safe for any other type of globe from a fire-safety point-of-view, then it's safer for LED's. However ... apparently the LED's are more susceptible to heat damage, if they run too hot. So if they sit in their own little enclosure with nowhere for the heat to go, the danger isn't fire or anything, it's just that the globes just run too hot for their own good, and they fail prematurely. I emailed Philips for recommended clearances etc, and they just point-blank said not to use covers at all. Re: House Orientation - Cool house in summer, warm in winter 197Jun 14, 2012 9:42 pm Hi Forg Thanks for that. I realised earlier that I had skimmed the thread (and therefore missed the more detailed discussion and comments you had offered over the past few days). DH and I have read more tonight and researched (beyond H1 too - DH is a tad sceptical ) and outcome: no covers for the downlights, will get LEDs (GU10 fittings) and over the weekend will see if we can add more insulation to reduce the gaps. We are also considering reducing the number of downlights anyway and converting to normal lights so there is no issue with insulation. As back-up above our R3.5 batts we have anti-con blanket as well (ie. sarking and R1.5batts) so not all is lost. Thanks for your reply. SunshineT's Build: viewtopic.php?f=31&t=34585 Designs start: 4/12/09 DA: 5/7/11 Demo: 22/12/11 Slab: 24/2/12 Keys: 31/8/12 Re: House Orientation - Cool house in summer, warm in winter 198Jun 14, 2012 9:47 pm I must admit, when I was first thinking about these holes in the insulation caused by having downlights flush-mounted, I was probably thinking the effect was worse than it really is. I was thinking that the holes were like little chimneys, sucking warm air out the holes. I guess the reality is there's little air-movement at all, you don't actually lose that much air flowing throught the downlight gaps; and without air-movement, you're only concerned with how much heat radiates through the ceiling & the insulation. In other words, the amount of heat that gets out is ... well, it's like how much light shines through a small hole in a piece of metal if you shine a torch at it, compared to how much light is blocked by the metal. I think in my mind I was thinking of it more as being like a small hole in the bottom of a bucket; but it's not, because it's not "air flowing out" it's "heat radiating out". If that makes sense. Re: House Orientation - Cool house in summer, warm in winter 199Jun 14, 2012 10:04 pm Forg - yes, absolutely makes sense. I think you are right. Similarly, when I first started reading about it I too thought it was air escaping through the fittings, but now I realise (particularly seeing it happen on our place, which is still after all the effort we have gone to with energy efficient designs) that it is the batt space around the fitting. I am more relaxed now - thanks for your comments. Very sensible. We are still thinking on ways to improve though (as it is a skillion roof, so once it is on we can't climb into any cavity to fix later on). Cheers. SunshineT's Build: viewtopic.php?f=31&t=34585 Designs start: 4/12/09 DA: 5/7/11 Demo: 22/12/11 Slab: 24/2/12 Keys: 31/8/12 Re: House Orientation - Cool house in summer, warm in winter 200Jun 14, 2012 10:14 pm Hey Forg. . .even if I knew 100% that you were wrong about something, I don't think I'd challenge you. . . you're very convincing! Big words, does it for me every time. Bloke at the hardware store told me the other day that the Bosch Blue power tools were better than the Bosch green tools, because they dipped the power cables 8 times in silicone, rather than 4 times for Bosch green tools, which increases their resistance. . . what the?. . . oh, and tradies liked them more. I challenged him! HAHAHA 0 610 You’re on the right track, wire brush in a grinder then a zinc rich epoxy primer then a top coat of some sort, like a waterproofing membrane. Raising the concrete would… 1 7031 How good is Simeon?! Always taking time to help others out! Wish we were building in NSW and could work together. Thanks for all that you do! 7 6567 |