Ducted Vacuum - which one?

Hi all,

I'm selecting ducted vacuum system now, but don't know which product is better, Lux or Cyclic.

I'm told 3 hp (horse-power) might not as powerful as a 2 hp one.

Your comments, please.

Regards, Aulyna

We decided to skip the ducted heating on our house- we've got a dyson and it is brilliant. Cost nearly 200 pounds in the UK, but it is worth every cent.

Is it part of the standard inclusions or are you purchasing it?

Not sure if that's what you wanted to hear, but hope it helps!

Anthea

I'm sure Dysons are brilliant but even they can't replace an entire heating system!!!!


OK, OK not what you meant to put I know!

Simon

It's not so much the HP of the motor as the volume of air it can move.

A 2hp motor running at high revs has been used by a major US manufacturer for many years.

Check out this oz manufacturuer whom i belive uses the US motor and builds the rest in oz.

http://www.starvac.com.au/page9.html
Cyclonic is the best method - as it does not restrict the airflow as it collects the dust.

Steve

Thanks guys,

How do I know which vacuum using Cyclonic method? I'll check their websites.

Is there a website which reviews ducted vacuums?

Regards, Aulyna

Mine is Valet V2SC filter bag system with vac pan.
http://www.valet.com.au/valetadmin/files/v2sc%20.pdf
Price around $1000

Hi oznow,

Thanks for your message.

I did get a quote from Valet, about $2k with a similar model, including a dustpan. $1000 is cheap.

Why don't you install a bagless one? How much a bag cost? What do you think of product?

Regards, Aulyna

For ducted vacuum, the big size of the bin means discarding the dust without a bag will be a messy one. Where and how are you going to empty your big dustbin?

The price was rough guess as it was the from the builder. Dont know the performance as yet, as the house is still in the foundation stage.

Hmm - thats not really the case Oznow - cyclonic vacs are much easier to clean and empty than a bagged system.

I have lived in houses with each system installed and eys I have used them.

In a cyclone system - The bottom bin should be emptied when it is about 1/3 full. Otherwise the extra dust affects the effectiveness of the cyclone.

To empty - It is a matter of taking the bin off - walk to wherever you are dumping it - and tip it in. Much neater than taking a bag off and then fitting a new one.
Steve

Hi steve,
You could be right. I have never used any of the bagless system and how the dumping system work. The information is from one of my builder.

i will check this again on the internet, and if that is true then i might ask the builder to change to the bagless.
thanks.

I would certainly be doing that OZ.

Bagless is really just going to clog and restrict airflow - especially depending on what you are collecting in it.

The only drawback of the cyclonic system that I have seen, and I've installed 2 systems for myself - one was on a rural block - and the fine dust in Darwin dry season seemed to give the bearings a bit of hard time after a few years - but as that was obver 15 years ago, this should not be an issue with a modern system.
The Darwin dust was pretty fine stuff.
Steve
Steve

Thanks Steve and oznow,

The Lux supplier said their system would be provided with 2 bags for the beginning, then can be used as bagless. But there is no one in ACT to install it. There are only few ads on yellow page, most of them only install their own brand.

Steve, how much it costs to install it? What kind of person should I contact to install it?

Regards, Aulyna

Who to install it.

Someone who knows what they are doing. !!!!!

It is critical that ALL - even the smallest of burrs on the pipe joins (even miniscule burrs catch fluff) so they need to be removed as it is being installed.
Also make sure the bends are not too tight, there are too many bends or the dust travelling inside it will potentially slow down, loose it's momentum, and get up caught inside the pipework = blockage. Which are rare except if clothing etc gets sucked up.

Some manufactuers make very tight wall bends which can help stopping big things going up the wall, but I prefer to use wider sweeping bends as they enable the dirt to flow faster throughout the system.

You can do it yourself, or you could ask a handyman type.

To my knowledge it is not regulated by who can do it - as the wiring is normally 12 or 24 volt, and the pipes are not connected to any utility companies resources.

So any good handyman ad in the local rag paper might be able to do it - if they are a bit cluey.

Just make sure you use the special pipes as they are smoother inside than plumbing pipes, and the bends are also not as sharp. I like to use 30 degree bends wherever possible, and piping up an out of a cupboard in an existing house are good for making this easier to do versus trying to get it inside the wall.

And another thing I've seen over the years - having micro switches on the back of the outlet which is triggered by the flap being opened - are better than the contacts on the pipe and inside the pipe.
Sure the on end of hose switch is not as easier to make available, but I've seen the contacts inside the pipe tend to wear out and get dirty (funny that) and you also need to put the hose to start the unit. and it is easier to just lift the flap and have the unit auto start if you have a blockage.

Yes the little micro switches can fail, but it is a simple process to change them, rather than a whole fitting or have a new hose.

My thoughts.

and consider buying and Australian made one.

It's the only way we will help our economy to keep operating

Steve

Thanks Steve,

Realy hope you are living in ACT

Too cold 4 me.
And sailing on a land locked lake
But happy to assist where I can.
Steve