Rainwater tank costs?

lrhodes1 · May 31, 2007 7:10 pm

Hi,
I've just recieved my BASIX variation and was SHOCKED to see that they want to charge me $8000 for a 2000l tank, concrete footing, stand installation and plumbing into my toilets.

Does anyone else have a cost I can compare it to?

Any suggestions or names of companies who can come in under that price?

Casa2 · May 31, 2007 7:39 pm

Irhodes,

I'm curious. Have you already signed with your builder?

If you have then they can charge almost whatever they like and can hide under the BASIX skirt.

Cheers,
Casa

aaurora · May 31, 2007 7:40 pm

We are paying roughly $8000 for a 5000L tank including concrete, everything, installed into the washing machine and toilets.

A bit steep but I couldn't be bothered organising it all myself to save a grand or two!

Adrian B · May 31, 2007 9:43 pm

Or mar gaaawwwwrrrrddddd :shock:

I paid $785 for a 3000l tank, the fixtures cost $150 to hook up to the downpipes and storm overflow. Concrete wa $80 (did the shed slab as well). I cannot believe that the rest will cost $7k

Pls explain???

kasiakm · May 31, 2007 10:38 pm

lrhodes1

Hi,
I've just recieved my BASIX variation and was SHOCKED to see that they want to charge me $8000 for a 2000l tank, concrete footing, stand installation and plumbing into my toilets.

Does anyone else have a cost I can compare it to?

Any suggestions or names of companies who can come in under that price?

We have arranged the water tank at own expense.
9000L tank costed us $2,550. We have ordered water tank, base pad, first splash diverter, tap and a good pump that switched automatically if there is not water. We have paid only $450 to the builder to hook it up to the toilet.

If you can - organise it by yourself.

cheers
kate

spalen · Jun 01, 2007 10:19 am

We have a slimline plastic 5000l tank , plumbed into 5 bathrooms + first flush, and concrete etc, for 8000$

Of that - the tank itself cost about 5.5K$ because it was a slimline plastic one. If you are just getting a big round one then 8K$ is very over the top I would say because the tank should only cost 2K$ so they're asking 6K to do a bit of concrete and some plumbing.

vpande · Jun 01, 2007 10:30 am

Metrikon is giving us a 'flushmiser' 2500 L water tank connected to all toilets for approx 3,500. I felt it was reasonable considering its a double storey home and organising plumbing later after handover can be a hassle.Unable to convince them to connect it to laundry though.
In your case you could contact 'flushmiser' (google) and get quotes.
vp

Spot · Jun 01, 2007 10:42 am

We are getting two of those big 22,000 litre team poly tanks. They are about $2.5k each. Doesn't include plumbing, pump, stand or anything, but we will organise that, our house is running totally off the tanks. What your paying seems rediculous by comparison.

3timesbuilda · Jun 01, 2007 11:01 am

Has anyone here considered a stainless steel tank? Lots of advantages over other types. They are a bit more expensive but still a lot less that some builders are quoting.

Here are some suppliers:

http://www.stainlesstanksandfittings.co ... arison.pdf
http://www.stainlesstanksandfittings.com.au/index.htm
http://www.tankworks.com.au/home.html
http://www.premierstainlesstanks.com/sizes.asp

Even stainless steel tanks cost less that $2000 for 2000L. Are you sure itis not 2000 gallons?

I recommend people here investigate stainless steel as an option. I am looking at putting in a couple of 20 000L tanks. (I started off very skeptical about stainless)

3xb

lrhodes1 · Jun 01, 2007 12:00 pm

Thanks everyone for your suggestions, it looks like I am really being ripped off.
I will look at purchasing my own stainless tank and just pay the builder to plumb it in.

I also saw this company at the homeshow www.rainsaverstoragegutters.com.au which I'm interested in.

vpande · Jun 05, 2007 11:04 am

I have seen the storage gutters stand at the home show in April. Great idea if one doesnt have much space in the yard.One drawback could be- since water sits in the gutters the surface area is too vast to influence corrosion etc and then fixing leaky roofs/gutters can be a hassle. Also dont forget the evaporation factor! Is your builder allowing u to cange the gutters?
RWTs are less risky if u have the space.
vp

aaurora · Jun 05, 2007 11:41 am

When I was looking into organising this myself, I called up a number of plumbers to get a rough quote on connecting the tank to the laundry and the toilet (mandatory in my council, Gold Coast), and all of the people I talked to said "Oh no, we don't do this". :roll:

So, as I said before, I couldn't be bothered! It was hard enough to find a plumber to do it and it's more risky if you use your own materials on the job site as you are liable for everything.

Yak_Chat · Jun 05, 2007 7:22 pm

I wouldn't be going the storage gutters way.

21kg of water per meter hanging off my barge boards?
Hmm not for me thanks. :roll:

Gutters fall down over time as it is, let alone full of water.

There is also an issue of the sunlight helping the lurgies grow inside the warm gutter. Have you ever cleaned out your gutters on a hot day and felt how warm the water is? Great place to grow anything you like.

That's why rainate tanks have enclosed lids to stop sunlight and stop things growing as quickly in there.
And I reckon the old mossie would like the gutter too.

Great idea,
very practical??? Hmm maybe not?
Steve

ahuang · Jun 06, 2007 12:56 pm

lrhodes1

Thanks everyone for your suggestions, it looks like I am really being ripped off.
I will look at purchasing my own stainless tank and just pay the builder to plumb it in.

I also saw this company at the homeshow www.rainsaverstoragegutters.com.au which I'm interested in.

I get this error when tried to access that web site:

"An error occured retreiving bizcard information: Could not find domain rainsaverstoragegutters.com.au"

I am with AllCastle, they charged us $7950 for setting up a 3150L slimeline water tank (880mm wide) on concrete slab. Details below:

"Includes separate plumbing to toilets, cold water connection of washing machine and external garden tap. Mains water diversion kit which is connected via one single external (weatherproof) power point (included) on a separate circuit and overflow to stormwater system. Diversion kit will bypass to mains water when tank is empty. Includes Everpure water filter to remove discolouring and odour. Diversion kit and filter will be fitted on the wall next to water tank. Tank to be same colour as client's chosen downpipe. Client is responsible for the maintenance of the system, water filter cartridge and inspections after handover"

We can also upgrade to "below ground system" which costs $12,500 (minus $7950).

Anyone sees any problem with those long, technical wordings? As we are signing the contracts in the next few weeks, any comments/advices welcomed!

Cheers
Allan
http://building-our-first-house.blogspot.com/

3timesbuilda · Jun 06, 2007 1:01 pm

"Anyone sees any problem with those long, technical wordings?"

Nope, just the price

3xb

ahuang · Jun 06, 2007 1:28 pm

3timesbuilda

"Anyone sees any problem with those long, technical wordings?"

Nope, just the price

3xb

Good point. Just contacted BlueScope Water 1300-654-774 (part of BlueScope Steel corporation), which is where AllCastle get their water tanks from.

For exactly the same model of slimline 3150L tank, they charge for about $4500 including installation. That price includes the tank, pump, filters and other necessary stuffs. Only things excluded are: concrete below the tabk, electricity power point, electricity and pipe connections.

Reason to choose same model is to have a fair comprison, plus don't want to go through council and Basix approval again...

If it costs about $500 for builder/plumber/electrician to connect to electricity, pipes and others, we can still save about $3000...

Will have some discussion with family...

Cheers
Allan
http://building-our-first-house.blogspot.com/

lrhodes1 · Jun 06, 2007 3:05 pm

Wow, $4500 is a lot less than $8000!!

I will give BlueScope water a call and see if they can help me out too.

I've contacted some tank supplier/installers and they don't seem to want to be involved in connecting to toilets/washing machines.

Could someone tell me, does the pump require an external power point near the tap? I'll have to include that on my electrical plan.

Yak_Chat · Jun 06, 2007 4:09 pm

Toilets etc is plumber type work.
Hence the tankies are not interested nor are they most likely to be qualified to be touching it.
Re the pump, normal installation is beside the tank, but it can be anywhere before the first outlet.
I'd suggest you locate the pump in a locked sealed box so it does not get knocked off - ie stolen. I've had that happen once. Nasty Baskets :twisted:

Typically the pump will have a 4 or 6 foot lead with 240 volt plug, so you need to have a power point nearby that suits.
Personally I'd be getting a little boxed area made into the side of the house, ina cupboard or similar and have it sound insulated and water proof, and put a point in there.
Little pumps starting and stopping can be comforting for some, and annoying for others.
Steve

lrhodes1 · Jun 13, 2007 10:00 am

Hello all,
Just for your information, I've recieved the following breakdown of costs:

Supply & install a 2150 litre Colorbond rainwater tank including the tank, the tank stand, the pump, the rainbank, the first flush device & the supply & installation of the rainwater signs the cost is $3091.32

The concrete base for the tank is $120.00

The plumbing rough in for the rainwater tank is $995.50

The upgrade to 100mm stormwater including the overflow is $1350.00

The electrical connections will be $500.00

The sub total of the above is $6056.82

Builders Overheads & Margin $1211.36

GST $726.82

Charge Out $7995.00

If the client was to supply & install the rainwater tank they would have to supply & install the tank, the tank stand, the pump, the rainbank, the first flush device & the rainwater signs. We would still have to do the concrete base, the plumbing rough in , the upgrade to 100mm stormwater & the electrical connections as listed above + overheads & margin & GST which would come to $3915.00

So either way I have to pay the builder's margin which is a big contributor to the cost. I don't really understand the $1300 for the stormwater.

If I do it myself with their $3915 option I'll only save around $1800.

Do you guys think it's worth it?

mattwalker · Jun 13, 2007 10:19 am

How much will $1800 affect you?

Personally I would leave it alone and if anything goes wrong it is all covered!!

Thats me thought.......lazy :lol: