How to save from the start

Cabinfever · Mar 30, 2007 1:29 am

I'm looking to build for the first time in Tasmania. None of the big mainland companies build here so I think I'll be going with a custom design & a small builder. Probably looking at a pretty big two-story home - maybe around 35 - 45 squares ( three kids, grandparents, work-from-home office etc).

The big problem is that the budget is going to be really stressed, so I need to think of all the ways to save money from the start.

Here's what I've come up with so far. But maybe some of these are just wrong ?

- Use a home draftsman rather than an architect

- Group all the plumbing elements together (ie in one corner of the house)

- I've designed identical top and bottom level bathrooms, which are even stacked exactly one atop the other (will this save money ?)

- Many of the downstairs internal walls mirror the upstairs walls

- The exterior is a basic square

Electrical outlets tend to be in straight lines as seen on the plans - that is, sockets in one room are in line with sockets in the next etc. Is this a help ?

- I've done some interior painting in the past so am contemplating doing ALL the interior painting myself

- Are there any new construction methods that might reduce time & costs ? For example, I've seen some TV shows about the polystyrene & concrete 'Beco Wallform' method. Does anyone have any experience with them in Australia ?

- I've also heard that a very well insulated house can be heated using a single efficient wood-burning heater. Is that really a practical (or wise) solution ?

- Call me a barbarian, but I really dislike halogen downlights. One reason is that they're a different format bulb. In my last house ( a rental ) I counted NINE different bulbs types in the house (including two different types of halogen bulbs) ! For the build I'm thinking of a simple single ceiling light in each main room with a door switch. Will this save over multiple halogen downlights ? Are there any other ways to save on lighting ?

- I'm thinking of having no built-ins in the bedrooms. I find most of them are just melamine board anyway. Will this save a significant amount ?

- I'd like a large deck area adjoining the back door for the kids. Can this just be part of the initial concrete slab ? I'd initially just leave it as untreated concrete. Is this a practical and cost effective idea ?

- I'd also really like some sort of large upstairs terrace. I'm thinking that if I make the double garage flat-roofed then I can put a terrace area on top of that. Is that practical ?

- To what extent can I choose and buy all the fittings such as doors, toilets, basins etc myself ? Is that the usual way or just a way to irritate the builder ?

- What is the cheapest family-friendly flooring ? I'm happy to go with industrial-grade carpet. Is it the best I can do on a budget ?

- Ceiling cornices: Are they needed at all ? I once lived in an art deco house where the wall plaster just curved up to meet the ceiling. It was sort of like a cornice, but just smoothed curved into the ceiling. Easy to paint and clean. Does that sound like a good (ie cheaper than cornices) option ?

- Ideally I'd like a double-brick house rendered white in a sort of Georgian style (which seems to suit a simple 'box' design). Is putting white render over brick really expensive, or a decent alternative to a straight paint ? If that's all too expensive then I'll have to go with unpainted brick - anything to be wary of there ?

I know these are a lot of questions, but if anyone can shed light on even one I'd be most grateful.

Thanks :-)

ps: And if anyone knows a good draftsman or builder in Tasmania....

redbaron · Mar 30, 2007 7:49 am

Most of your ideas would appear to be money savers.
From experience I can comment on a couple of them-

Use a home draftsman rather than an architect.

This can save heaps of money if you know the basic design that you are after.

II've also heard that a very well insulated house can be heated using a single efficient wood-burning heater. Is that really a practical (or wise) solution ?

Yes a well insulated home with a slow combustion wood heater will be very effective during winter, I live in the New England region where it gets down to minus 9 degrees and the house is as warm as toast with the fire burning. You will need to factor in the price of wood in your region as that can be a 'make or break' on whether you are actually saving money or not.

I'm thinking of a simple single ceiling light in each main room with a door switch. Will this save over multiple halogen downlights ?

This is the way we have gone as well, the traditional light in a socket with a switch by the door. Use the latest compact fluorescent bulbs and you will save heaps of money by using much less electricity. The Fluro Bulbs are more expensive, however they last around 10 times longer than a normal bulb and use less electricity.

'm thinking of having no built-ins in the bedrooms. I find most of them are just melamine board anyway. Will this save a significant amount ?

This is something that you will need to factor in if you ever need to sell the house. The modern buyer will find the lack of built-ins to be a major turn-off. If you factor in the cost of buying stand-alone wardrobes/cupboards the buit-ins may be a better option.

I'd like a large deck area adjoining the back door for the kids. Can this just be part of the initial concrete slab ? I'd initially just leave it as untreated concrete. Is this a practical and cost effective idea ?

Yes, yes, and yes. Much cheaper to do it as an extension of the slab rather than as an add-on at a later date.

Good luck with your new Home.

3timesbuilda · Mar 30, 2007 2:59 pm

Hi CabinFever,

A very good and well thoughtout plan. I'll post a few comments below:

- Group all the plumbing elements together (ie in one corner of the house)

If you can try get them next to an outside wall this may also help a bit.

- I've designed identical top and bottom level bathrooms, which are even stacked exactly one atop the other (will this save money ?)

Can't say for sure but I think it probably will.

- Many of the downstairs internal walls mirror the upstairs walls

I don't think this will make a difference but can't be 100% sure.

- The exterior is a basic square

That is what we wanted to build but the council said no so we had to change it. Probably won't be a problem in your case.

Electrical outlets tend to be in straight lines as seen on the plans - that is, sockets in one room are in line with sockets in the next etc. Is this a help ?

I think this will help even if it only means less conduit.

- I've also heard that a very well insulated house can be heated using a single efficient wood-burning heater. Is that really a practical (or wise) solution ?

It is what I haop to do although we will have backup ducted gas. The problem is that I think it would be best if it is downstais in a central location but then how to have the chimmney so it doesn't poke thru upstairs?

- I've done some interior painting in the past so am contemplating doing ALL the interior painting myself

We did this in our last home and it really saved us a fair bit of money.

- I'm thinking of having no built-ins in the bedrooms. I find most of them are just melamine board anyway. Will this save a significant amount ?

If you heve 2 adjoining bedrooms, you can use them as a room divider and this may save a bit.

- I'd like a large deck area adjoining the back door for the kids. Can this just be part of the initial concrete slab ? I'd initially just leave it as untreated concrete. Is this a practical and cost effective idea ?

Have you considered using gravel and maybe a few concrete pavers. Concrete slabs are quite expensive.

- I'd also really like some sort of large upstairs terrace. I'm thinking that if I make the double garage flat-roofed then I can put a terrace area on top of that. Is that practical ?

Probably but it will likely cost a it more than a standard roof because it will have to be stroong enough to support peoples weight (concrete?). How about something more akin to an enclosed carport with a wooden roof/decking?

- To what extent can I choose and buy all the fittings such as doors, toilets, basins etc myself ? Is that the usual way or just a way to irritate the builder ?

I don't see why not, esp if you are not using a volume builder. Just make sure you provide the exact specs to the builder.

- What is the cheapest family-friendly flooring ? I'm happy to go with industrial-grade carpet. Is it the best I can do on a budget ?

I would suggest click lock laminate. Looks like wood, is warm and generally looks quite good. spotted some locally for $14/sqm. Not too difficult to lay yourself. I would personally carpet bedrooms though (in my case all upstairs) to give what for me is a more homely feel. Reasonable quality budget carpet will probably run to $35 per lineal metre.

- Ceiling cornices: Are they needed at all ? I once lived in an art deco house where the wall plaster just curved up to meet the ceiling. It was sort of like a cornice, but just smoothed curved into the ceiling. Easy to paint and clean. Does that sound like a good (ie cheaper than cornices) option ?

Someone here mentioned not having cornices and having a gap instead. Sound terrible but actually looks really nice and quite stylish too. Not sure what sort of saving/cost you would get though.

- Ideally I'd like a double-brick house rendered white in a sort of Georgian style (which seems to suit a simple 'box' design). Is putting white render over brick really expensive, or a decent alternative to a straight paint ? If that's all too expensive then I'll have to go with unpainted brick - anything to be wary of there ?

I would suspect that white render would absorb water and change colour. Raw brick can always be rendered later when finances permit.

I like the whole idea of your approach and wish you well. My view is that I want to focus all the money on things that are structural and can't easily be improved later. I can't cheaply add a room later and I can't make a room bigger later, but I can change a carpet or paint etc. for not too much more that at build time.

Hopefully I will have more money to do all the other things later....

Best wishes

3xb

Cabinfever · Mar 31, 2007 12:33 am

Thanks very much for the replies, they make me feel a bit better about trying to take this on. Interesting thoughts on the balcony and flooring..

Most of my friends keep telling me not to build, that's it's too much work, takes too long, too messy, too 'dangerous' etc etc.

But it can't be *that* hard can it ? ;-)

ahuang · May 30, 2007 1:14 am

If cost is main concern, how about using brick veneer rather than double brick? That would save a lot too.

Quote:

Most of my friends keep telling me not to build, that's it's too much work, takes too long, too messy, too 'dangerous' etc etc.

I think it also depends on how much you know about the industry and if you have any reliable contact who knows about the industry. If you have the resource, it won't be that difficult.

Compared to buying an existing house, building one would definitely be more risky. But imagine living in the house you designed/built/fully involved, that would be a very special experience!

Cheers
Allan
http://building-our-first-house.blogspot.com/

Elizabeth · Jun 01, 2007 1:15 am

Hi Cabinfever

There was a long discussion about the merits of different cornices back in February (titled 'square set cornices', in the Getting It Right section - started by Mek). The conclusion seemed to be that square set cornices are a lot more expensive ... because they require much greater accuracy on the part of the plasterer.

Re alternatives to double brick, we're planning to use Timbercrete for external walls. Worth taking a look ... www.timbercrete.com.au (persevere with their site, it's kind of annoying).

We'll be using Durra Board for internal walls ... www.ortech.com.au ... it's a more expensive product but costs less in labour, only time will tell if it works out cheaper all up!!

Yay for avoiding downlights. You'll save heaps on that, plus your insulation will be way less holey. Just make sure you have good task lighting for the kitchen and enough electrical outlets for lamps.

Personally, I'd never skip on the wardrobes. I did see a great idea the other day ... slide out shelves with dowel at the front (to stop stuff falling out), rather than drawers. I suspect this would be a lot cheaper. I'm thinking at the moment that we will get the builder to put in the basic frame and doors and then I'll do the shelves and racks etc myself. I've built in so many shelves in rental accommodation over the years that I'm confident to at least do that bit myself! (famous last words)

G'luck

e.