I remember when I was going to build through Henley they wanted to charge about $50/m for eaves
Browse Forums Building Standards; Getting It Right! Re: Protecting your Slab 82Aug 19, 2014 8:40 am Hi need some advice on this, hubby has agreed to concrete around the slab of the house, will concreting 1 m on all sides be sufficient to protect it? Also we wanted to put up a deck/pergola, should we be concreting around the slab first or wait till we finish the deck and then do the concrete? Second Build, this time with Carlisle 2016, can't wait! Beckham: viewtopic.php?f=31&t=67280 Canterbury: viewtopic.php?f=31&t=81175 Re: Protecting your Slab 83Aug 19, 2014 10:58 am PEARZ Hi need some advice on this, hubby has agreed to concrete around the slab of the house, will concreting 1 m on all sides be sufficient to protect it? Also we wanted to put up a deck/pergola, should we be concreting around the slab first or wait till we finish the deck and then do the concrete? Will it be enough? No. Its one of many preventative measures. You need to maintain your landscaping past the path in a way that limits the amount of moisture getting under it. there is no generic solution. You will need to do some more research about surface drainage and landscaping to understand how it will impact your surrounding area to have the best chance at preventing damage. and tehn again, you could burst a pipe under your slab and none of teh above willl help. Concrete and deck? Depends. would you be deck ontop of the path? how would it look, what is happening to teh earth under the deck, will there be drainage? etc. Creator of superduperonium, expert at expert things, nobel laureate, can hold my breath for 10 minutes. Re: Protecting your Slab 84Aug 19, 2014 10:58 am bashworth The main reason for protecting the slab as you describe is if the ground is 'Reactive' or 'Desicated' Clay(http://www.anewhouse.com.au/2012/07/bui ... lay-soils/). This can shrink when it drys and swell when it gets wet. I have never built on reactive clay and have had one house with paths on one side only and the other with virtually no paths around without any problems. ( however being a drainage engineer I did take care in the landscaping to avoid water ponding near the house) My signature is distracting people from my wise posts ... Re: Protecting your Slab 85Aug 19, 2014 11:24 am building-expert ... Conventional slab that has edge beams excavated 100mm into natural clay will be somewhat protected better because edge beam will act as barrier to spread of water.... My signature is distracting people from my wise posts ... Re: Protecting your Slab 86Aug 19, 2014 12:41 pm Lex building-expert ... Conventional slab that has edge beams excavated 100mm into natural clay will be somewhat protected better because edge beam will act as barrier to spread of water.... If you have a good look at your waffle engineering drawing details you will find that waffle is set up on a level prepared base. Foremost Building Expert in Australia,assisting with building problems/disputes, building stage inspections,pre-contract review advice for peace of mind 200 blogs http://www.buildingexpert.net.au/blog Re: Protecting your Slab 87Aug 19, 2014 2:25 pm PEARZ Hi need some advice on this, hubby has agreed to concrete around the slab of the house, will concreting 1 m on all sides be sufficient to protect it? Also we wanted to put up a deck/pergola, should we be concreting around the slab first or wait till we finish the deck and then do the concrete? PEARZA 1m concrete apron should be ok but here are a few golden rules 1. It must have the correct slope away from the building 2. It should have a spoon drain or way of collecting the water and running it your stormwater system not dump next to the edge of the concrete. 3. The concreter must not do their own plumbing a licensed plumber must do it. Other things to consider. Be careful the concreter doesn’t accidentally put a star picket through your storm water pipes during construction. Bobcats or heavy machinery should be avoided especially during wet periods as they can crush existing pipes. Concrete must be separated from the house wall. A concrete apron won’t protect you from subsurface water flow towards your house from neighbouring property. A drain will stop this from happening. If you are going to construct a deck then it must be covered as it can allow moisture in and stop evaporation. Make sure the ground under the deck is not cut lower than surrounding ground level and slopes away from your house plastic sheets can be useful to achieve this Re: Protecting your Slab 88Aug 19, 2014 2:35 pm Lex building-expert ... Conventional slab that has edge beams excavated 100mm into natural clay will be somewhat protected better because edge beam will act as barrier to spread of water.... Lex Your waffle can't have deeper edge beams than it's internal beams.It may be that your site was cut 100mm or there was a site scrap to remove vegetation before your waffle was constructed.Are you sure you have a waffle ?what you have described sounds like a typical raft slab. There is no set founding depth for a raft slab it usually follows the recommendations in the soil report eg H2 type slab founded a minimum of 200mm into stiff natural clay or something along those lines. Re: Protecting your Slab 89Aug 19, 2014 6:54 pm Lex maybe they have laid your slab on a prepared base and then just piled the soil up to the slab. I would of thought in a waffle slab you would be able to see where your moisture barrier goes under the slab. Re: Protecting your Slab 90Aug 22, 2014 10:32 am building-expert Ponzu can i use quickset for this or should I really use the good stuff? No shortcuts here, use premixed concrete and reinforcement F62 Think I could achieve the same level of protection from ingress with pavers? Creator of superduperonium, expert at expert things, nobel laureate, can hold my breath for 10 minutes. Re: Protecting your Slab 91Aug 22, 2014 8:07 pm Yes, we deifintely have a waffle pod slab, on top of piers. Site was cut and fill, approx. 350mm each, mid line somewhere in the middle of the house. Yes, the internal beams are the same thickness as external / perimeter beams ... My signature is distracting people from my wise posts ... Re: Protecting your Slab 92Aug 22, 2014 8:15 pm Ponzu building-expert Ponzu can i use quickset for this or should I really use the good stuff? No shortcuts here, use premixed concrete and reinforcement F62 Think I could achieve the same level of protection from ingress with pavers? No you need continuous impervious surface If you use pavers water will just go down between them Foremost Building Expert in Australia,assisting with building problems/disputes, building stage inspections,pre-contract review advice for peace of mind 200 blogs http://www.buildingexpert.net.au/blog Re: Protecting your Slab 93Aug 23, 2014 6:42 pm I mentioned the plan to do a concrete path/apron all around my future home to my dad today and he commented that when he was a kid (60+ years ago), his dad went to considerable effort to put a similar concrete apron all around their family home to keep the area under the floor stable. It was stumps, not a slab, in those days but his dad told him they need much less re-stumping done if run off is kept away. Dad also mentioned the time when he dug a 6foot deep (at it's deepest) trench behind our (then) home, lining with plastic on the house side and putting proper drains in to keep water away from under the house slab to keep the house stable and not cracking. This would have been 30-40 years ago. Nope, no new ideas here. New as waffle-pod slabs may be, the need to pay attention to drainage is not new at all! Which really only makes it more appalling that it is so neglected. Land settled May '14. Building the PD Hoffman39: 5/11=site start, 13/11=slab pour, 26/11=frame complete, 10/12=roof on, 12/12=bricking started. Blog: http://jyndeira.net/blog/ Re: Protecting your Slab 96Aug 24, 2014 7:58 am Crazyk So just on all this, does anyone have good ideas for the front of the house? Use plastic sloping away from the house instead of concrete and put your landscaping materials on top of that.If your front yard slopes towards your house then you will need a drain and run the plastic into it.If the general slope of your front yard is away from the house and towards the street then a drain may not be required as the run off from the plastic will naturally move away from your house. Re: Protecting your Slab 97Aug 24, 2014 8:22 am Just a new one noted on recent inspecton just look at this, how close is drain to slab edge of H class home Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ What hope has homeowner against slab heave? Foremost Building Expert in Australia,assisting with building problems/disputes, building stage inspections,pre-contract review advice for peace of mind 200 blogs http://www.buildingexpert.net.au/blog Re: Protecting your Slab 98Aug 24, 2014 8:35 am building-expert Just a new one noted on recent inspecton just look at this, how close is drain to slab edge of H class home http://i1321.photobucket.com/albums/u559/brankom10/DSC_2168_zps423f8717.jpg What hope has homeowner against slab heave? BE... How about homes that are considered as 'on the boundary' or within 200mm of the fence? Re: Protecting your Slab 100Aug 24, 2014 9:00 am Crazyk Thanks insider. Only issue with plastic is it really ruins soil for some reason. Ive pulled up black plastic after many years and it actually makes the soil hydrophobic. Very hard to get it to wet. Yes but that's the point not to get the soil to wet close to your foundations. Thanks for the insights, that makes perfect sense, and yeah, I will be leaning on the experience of the excavator operator entirely. 6 16122 4 6201 The concreter will take and reuse. In my case I bought structural LVLs and scraped them back and used them as joists. 1 5152 |