Browse Forums Building Standards; Getting It Right! Re: Protecting your Slab 543Jul 19, 2020 9:11 am Hi John, I can offer some assistance from experience having recently built but I’m sure others (such as Norfolk etc) will have more scientific references than I. The yellow line appears to be your termite barrier, granite guard if I’m correct. The green line is your initial brick/slab layer. The concrete apron needs to be 100mm thick if only foot traffic, and I personally would have the reinforcement bars drilled into your house slab to minimise apron movement/dropping. Always run the water away from the house. But I can see you are on top of that already. You may want to discuss whose responsibility for the retaining wall belongs to, as fencing is 50/50.if you are on a zero lot block your neighbours garage may crack and drop a few mm. Re: Protecting your Slab 544Jul 19, 2020 10:04 am The yellow line is the DPC. 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Re: Protecting your Slab 546Jul 19, 2020 12:30 pm GLO Hi John, I can offer some assistance from experience having recently built but I’m sure others (such as Norfolk etc) will have more scientific references than I. The yellow line appears to be your termite barrier, granite guard if I’m correct. The green line is your initial brick/slab layer. The concrete apron needs to be 100mm thick if only foot traffic, and I personally would have the reinforcement bars drilled into your house slab to minimise apron movement/dropping. Always run the water away from the house. But I can see you are on top of that already. You may want to discuss whose responsibility for the retaining wall belongs to, as fencing is 50/50.if you are on a zero lot block your neighbours garage may crack and drop a few mm. Thanks for the reply. Yes, must be the termite barrier. I really thought that the aprons shouldn’t be connected to the slab just in case any of them would move? Could you please clarify? I have sw pipes in the middle of the footpath. Not sure what’s the best option to do this. Do I slope to the the pit or slope to the edge? If I slope to the edge, I need a channel drain I think. The Zero lot garage will be Retained. The retaining wall will be 450mm offset from garage Re: Protecting your Slab 547Jul 19, 2020 2:36 pm Yes connected paths is best. Just make sure your concretor knows what he is doing and is licensed. Don't use some weekend warrior or someone's old mate. See screenshot from QBCC document https://www.qbcc.qld.gov.au/sites/defau ... 20Home.pdf Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Re: Protecting your Slab 548Jul 19, 2020 2:44 pm sweetswisssteel Yes connected paths is best. Just make sure your concretor knows what he is doing and is licensed. Don't use some weekend warrior or someone's old mate. See screenshot from QBCC document https://www.qbcc.qld.gov.au/sites/defau ... 20Home.pdf Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Thank you for the very helpful information. I’m having a hard time looking for a reputable concreter in NSW. Each time I speak to them, they don’t Know around half Of what you are talking about. Where do I look really? My search continues. Re: Protecting your Slab 549Jul 19, 2020 2:52 pm Just make sure they are well regarded, are licenced etc. Maybe go to a few new housing estates and ask around or work your way through the master builders index of concretors. Say things like "I want my pathways dowelled into my slab". They might make more sense to the guys you are approaching. Cheers Re: Protecting your Slab 550Jul 19, 2020 3:24 pm John0322 SaveH2O The yellow line is the DPC. Thanks. Is this where I measure my 75mm to my concrete apron? Or is it from my termite barrier? Yes. The 75mm minimum gap applies to non permeable surfaces unless you are in a low rainfall intensity zone. The damp propf course is always at the bottom of the weep holes. 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Re: Protecting your Slab 551Jul 19, 2020 3:29 pm sweetswisssteel Yes connected paths is best. Just make sure your concretor knows what he is doing and is licensed. Don't use some weekend warrior or someone's old mate. See screenshot from QBCC document https://www.qbcc.qld.gov.au/sites/defau ... 20Home.pdf Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ . Re: Protecting your Slab 552Jul 19, 2020 3:52 pm Correct drainage of course. I have strip drains myself. The 75mm is negotiable if you have sufficient slope and drainage from the slab and good visual on the termite barrier. It's only an issue if you can't justify it. Common sense should always prevail. Re: Protecting your Slab 553Jul 19, 2020 4:17 pm SaveH2O John0322 SaveH2O The yellow line is the DPC. Thanks. Is this where I measure my 75mm to my concrete apron? Or is it from my termite barrier? Yes. The 75mm minimum gap applies to non permeable surfaces unless you are in a low rainfall intensity zone. The damp propf course is always at the bottom of the weep holes. Thank you. Does this mean though it’s okay to go above my termite barrier which sits below my dpc? Re: Protecting your Slab 554Jul 19, 2020 4:34 pm [quote="insider":2s27heh4][quote="sweetswisssteel":2s27heh4]Yes connected paths is best. Just make sure your concretor knows what he is doing and is licensed. Don't use some weekend warrior or someone's old mate. See screenshot from QBCC document https://www.qbcc.qld.gov.au/sites/defau ... 20Home.pdf[img:2s27heh4]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200719/8adfa55199cd9824a749caa381ce69a3.jpg[/img:2s27heh4] [/quote:2s27heh4] The only problem I have with this set up is that the water is dumped at the edge of the path which can cause the soil to wet up and heave therefore lifting the edge of concrete path and sloping it back towards the house. My preferred method is to have the spoon drain on the edge of the concrete path or have the path sloping towards storm water drain inlets spaced along the middle of the concrete path. I know this is not what the standards say but from my experience it is the most effective design to reduce the chances of excessive water reaching the foundations.[/quote:2s27heh4] Thanks. This might be applicable for me. Just to clarify, are you referring to something similar to below? Can I have a spoon drain just around 200mm wide? Personally, I prefer spoon drains as they are easier to maintain. I also haven’t figured out yet how I can concrete a drain adjacent to my retaining wall. I won’t be able to dig At the edge of the footpath as my wall auger holes are 400mm in diameter and concreted. Perhaps I can make the base of my retaining wall deeper so they level with the base of my spoon or channel drain? Adding another course of sleepers sounds expensive and might go beyond to what I have specified in the Engineering design I submitted for DA. [img:2s27heh4]https://imgur.com/gallery/Qcmn70L[/img:2s27heh4] Re: Protecting your Slab 555Jul 19, 2020 4:38 pm That would be your best option. Next time buy a better block haha. Cheers Re: Protecting your Slab 556Jul 22, 2020 1:51 pm Hi All, I have begun talking to concreters for the installation of my footpath. Most concreters told me that they don't excavate and they let the landscapers sort out the levels before they start. So I will be talking to my landscaper and I'm just trying to get my head around what to tell them. 1. First, is the grading done on soil or the concrete - please check illustrations below. And does it have to be compacted? Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ 2. Second, will the following design work? And is it being done? Can I have a footpath with no slope away from the house and with ends that are higher so the water won't seep on the edges (see illustrations below)? I have a retaining wall on one side of the footpath. So alternately, can I just seal the space where the footpath meets my concrete sleepers? As for drainage, I'm planning to have two pit drains and channel drains running mid-width along the 22mm length of the footpath. Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Re: Protecting your Slab 557Jul 22, 2020 2:53 pm Engage a licenced structural landscaper and possibly a plumber first, work out all the finished levels that you will need for the concretor and then pour away. As long as the overall structure results in good drainage and adequate inspection etc then you can push it a bit on your 75mm. Ultimately you can also get the plan approved prior by a structural engineer. Cheers Thanks for the insights, that makes perfect sense, and yeah, I will be leaning on the experience of the excavator operator entirely. 6 16149 4 6201 The concreter will take and reuse. In my case I bought structural LVLs and scraped them back and used them as joists. 1 5159 |