Browse Forums Windows & Doors 1 Apr 15, 2012 2:56 pm Hi all! Been a member here for a while and full of great info..... But have struck a problem that I cannot resolve by myself. My home is 12 months old and a couple of months back my daughter slammed one of the cavity sliders to our walk in pantry. It then sat at an odd angle. Easy fix I thought. This is the cavity system, the Hume statesman. http://www.humedoors.com.au/assets/2666 ... 202011.pdf from what I can see, I should simply remove the pellet timber on either side and access the adjusting bolt etc. located on each of the rollers. Ok, so I started hitting the piece of timber with a chisel and it started to split in one corner. No worries, I'll remove the architrave timber, which snapped of course. Removing this did not help whatsoever, while I can just see the rollers thought the metal track, the bolts are completely inaccessible. Again, I believe I need to remove the pelmet timber, but it is affixed with screws through the metal track from above. Is this actually installed wrong, and should there be screws going up instead into the frame ? The only way to remove the pellet timber would be to smash it up with the 4 screws in it.... And I would not be able to screw another piece in unless I then pulled off plasterboard to access the top of the tracks ?? Any help greatly appreciated, is there a nice simple answer to my problem please!? Pic 1, the nice lean on the door: http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w91/skapinad/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTIwNDE1LTAwMjU3LmpwZw.jpg Pic 2, the mess I made removing the architrave timber, which is nailed exclusively to the pelmet. http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w91/skapinad/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTIwNDE1LTAwMjUzLmpwZw.jpg Pic 3, a close up showing the screws affixed through the frame and into the pelmet timber, roller shown behind in the track. This pic is taken through the small gap between the plasterboard and the top of the pelmet timber. http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w91/skapinad/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTIwNDE1LTAwMjU0LmpwZw.jpg Cheers Re: Fixing Hume cavity slider, help please. 2Apr 15, 2012 3:29 pm We had a similar problem thanks to an overzealous toddler! We have the timber pelmet type things the same as yours, but ours screw up into the door frame from underneath and the screws are covered by little plastic cap things. DH had a bit of trouble getting the timber off, just had to break the seal of the paint, but was a relatively easy fix. I don't understand why yours doesn't have the screws?? Such a shame you have had to damage the wall to get at it. Sorry I haven't really offered a solution, hopefully someone with a bit of inside info can help you out. Or ring your builder?? Re: Fixing Hume cavity slider, help please. 3Apr 15, 2012 4:26 pm In pic #1 just below the top arc there is a peice of timber about 19x25mm on both sides. As boganswife said it should have some screws holding it in place, from the pics that doesn't appear to be the case. As you don't need to remove the door it won't matter which one you remove so i'd suggest the inside one for athetic reasons. Run a sharp blade along the groove to cut the gap filler and paint before attempting to remove it. If it's nailed, with the door open you can lever it of from the inside using a chisel. Hold a small block of timber on the peice on the other side so as not to damage it when levering. It may take a fair bit of force to get it to let go but if start one end once you get it started it should come fairly easly after that. If you have the flat spanner provided to tighten the nuts that will be a big bonus. If not an 11mm open end spanner will do even a better job, 2 if you have them. You can adjust the height of the door by rotating the bolt head which is under the bracket, be sure as not to over tighten this bolt as it will split the plastic wheel carrier if you do. Once you have the door adjusted, now tighten the locking nut down thats on the top of the bracket, this is where the 2nd spanner comes in handy, one to hold the bolt and the other to tighten the nut. If you don't have the second spanner you can force a flat screw driver in between the flat of the bolt head and the edge of the bracket to hold it while you tighten the nut. As for repairing the arc, you can slip down the hardware and get a piece, it's standard splayed profile so won't be hard to get. Measure from outside to outside of the sides and that will be your long to long length. Just a tip, cut this 1mm shorter than the measurement you get. Hope this helps. Re: Fixing Hume cavity slider, help please. 4Apr 15, 2012 4:34 pm Thanks mate, I kind of figured that was what I needed to do. The timber piece you are referring to I have referred to as the "pelmet" timber. I thought that was what I needed to get off. However it is screwed in from above through the metal frame, as per the third photo. The screws are inside the wall if you like. I would break it completely to get it off and possibly bend the metal track depending how long the screws are? This piece of timber has obviously been screwed on prior to plasterboard etc. Re: Fixing Hume cavity slider, help please. 6Apr 15, 2012 4:55 pm Exactly what I thought, it's definately the one piece of timber, despite that line in the middle that I tried to put the chisel through. You can see my attempted from both sides( on the inside) note also the architrave was nailed to this piece of pelmet timber also, so it wasn't coming out without the architrave coming off to start with... At which point I could then see the screws going into the pelmet from above. Left side looking from outside. Tried putting the chisel through the line, but it's one piece. Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Right side, also tried hitting with chisel, but split where one of the screws from above comes down. Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Chisel levering from the inside, definately one piece of pelmet timber. Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ I am stumped..... Re: Fixing Hume cavity slider, help please. 7Apr 16, 2012 9:11 am In your last pic there, those are 2 seperate peices of timber and will come apart. The top one will stay connected to the metal track and the bottom one is the one you need to remove. If by chance you are in the sth east side of bris send me a pm and I'd be happy to drop round and fix it for you. No charge. Re: Fixing Hume cavity slider, help please. 9Apr 16, 2012 5:00 pm Thanks for the generous offer mgilla! And photos paulmac, I took the chisel to it again and voila, the timber pieces separated..... However it has been nailed not screwed so will always be a pain in the proverbial to get off without damaging the soft pine, I may as well put screws in now so I can remove it easily next time! Or I'll just send a pm to mgilla! Thanks again, Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ I only have 2 others in the house, let's hope they don't stuff up ! I'll look into different shower heads and ask the plumber about some engineering and see what he says. Thanks 2 6201 Plumbers 'can be' plumbers, made all the worse by self certification which the building surveyor invariably accepts as proof of compliance! The good thing is that you know know. 3 3243 |