What's wrong with my windows...?????

Thanks Ed. We'll point these things out to the builder at the next inspection and let them deal with it.

Appreciate your help.

thanks ed will be checking our windows out

Hi Ed - thanks for the thread. You replied to me when I was going to buy an old house (got outbid) now I am building a new house and the windows and doors seems way too complex taking in what you would like and what the BASIX building requirements insists on.

I am just buying aluminium windows and doors for the first time (always cedar before) and I am worried. I like what Trend offer and I saw a supplier yesterday who constructs Vantage windows and they looked excellent.

Having just read the thread how can you find out if your suppliers windows will leak or not? I have never had leaking or sticking problems with cedar windows in the past.

Some suppliers windows and doors I've looked at are built to a price and it shows, is it also a fact that the looks can hide a leaking or sticking product.

Pity you don't have a branch in NSW.

All windows have been type tested to be sold in Australia. That means at some time, a sample was tested and passed to meet a certain wind and rain value. This rating can be seen on a small label on each window supplied (N2, N3 and N4 and the like).

That does not mean that every window from that point onward complies and does not leak... however, there are fastidious manufacturers who can normally be relied upon... the 2 you indicate are well known suppliers.

We can supply you, but the freight will need to be included.

Thanks
Ed

Hi Ed, I was after some advice about installation of windows in a home being built.

We have aluminum windows in a rendered brick (ground floor) / rendered Hebel (top floor) home. Hubby is a little concerned that there is no flashing installed around the windows. When I have tried to google the information I have found suggestion that it is no longer used, however hubby found something that suggests it is part of building regulations in Victoria. Hence I thought it better to ask an expert!

We appear to have decent size gaps around some of the windows, what is the right way for these gaps to be filled? I am assuming something will have to be used to filled the gap to stop water getting thru to the plaster inside.

Hubby can be overly picky, so I would like to be armed with the right information before approaching the builder if there is any need to approach him at all.

The gap around your windows into the timber frame is required for installation, it never gets filled. In residential homes, in Qld they always flash windows, in Victoria rarely. Mostly it makes no difference and in your case, as the render will be up to the window I am sure it will be weatherproof. It is more of a concern where there is no render if there is a gap to the brickwork.

FYI from a competitor site, here is a link to the AWA guide to installation, which we recommend.

http://www.valleywindows.com.au/documen ... Print2.pdf

Ed

Hi Ed, What causes fogging between double glazed windows in direct sunlight when there is a large temp difference e.g. sunshine on a cool day. I've had this on 90% of my windows and I'm still awaiting a satisfactory outcome from this company.

All double glazing contains an amount of moisture which can show up occasionally, especially in direct sunlight. If it's too much and the windows are within warranty, you should talk to the manufacturer. Take a photo when it happens and show the manufacturer.

Ed

Hi
Sorry I don't understand, can you post some pics?
Thanks
Ed

Ed, the better construction, the better windows will fit into the windows area. this is why the things professionals can do, won't be done by non-professionals! Budget Windows QLD in Brisbane have done great job in these area.

Yeah really good tip from Ed here. Have had the same problem last year when we installed a new set of windows and realised that the problem was coming from the way the windows were built and that the window company, which is a reputable Perth company, had nothing to do with this.

I am back... ask any questions you have... I will always answer...

Hi Ed,

Is there any chance you could provide an overview for all of us, what makes good pricing ranges for decent quality windows?

I know that some people pay as much as $1500 per sqm for high end windows (e.g. timber/aluminium or alimunium/UPVC Internorm tripple glazed windows with U values as low as 0.65!) on one side and on the other side, there is an option of getting German frames (e.g. Veka)/German (e.g. ROTO) hardware windows /doors from China in $200-$400 per sqm range.

Would like to know your thoughts on what is considered to be a good price/quality balance.

Thanks in advance.

Sure, I will put something together.
Thanks
Ed

There was such a mistake in my house.

What was that Erin?

Window won't go UP and DOWN

Take a photograph of the window and give some more detail... I will help if I can.

Hi Ed,

Thanks for your assistance to everyone in this thread. Just found this recently, this my late reply! I have a question, and I’m
hoping someone can help. Our EcoClassic windows were installed in late 2010 and I have noticed a few going out of square. I
Do remember the carpenter at the time installed them with Masonite packers at the bottom and sides? Could this be the issue? Is there better packers that you recommend? im also faced with the thought of having to now rectify 4 window installs. Is there anyone you recommend to do this in the western suburbs of Melbourne?

Hi MDC
EcoClassic Windows will not, on their own, go out of square. These are silicone glazed and that bonds the glass and the aluminium together.

What is the symptom that you are experiencing?

Thanks