Browse Forums Paving & Concreting Re: Tar driveway 5Jun 06, 2014 7:56 pm Settlement 1/2/12 New Shed 23/3/12 Slab poured 27/3/12 Frame complete 4/5/12 Roof complete 1/6/12 LOCKUP 29/6/12 Our new build blog http://kareenhillsownerbuild.blogspot.com/ Re: Tar driveway 7Jun 11, 2014 11:58 am I thought it would be cheaper but after getting quotes it seems it's not? here's the latest one i recieved: "Assuming you would want a flush kerb, which is finished level to the Asphalt seal, there is two preparation visits and 200mm depth of road base required (sub base 80mm and top course 120mm depth). The Asphalt seal depth will be 30mm depth. The road base prep and seal will be $90/m2 assuming 300m2 and the flush edging (profile min 150mm x 150mm edge restraint) will be an additional $40 per linear metre (All inclusive of GST). You will find concrete will be cheaper than constructing your driveway in this manner, so it becomes a product choice not price driven. The process includes initial ground prep (not including major earthworks), sub base prep, then followed by the edging, then back fill top course road base to correct level and then this followed by primer and Asphalt seal. The process would take a three week period to allow for drying and curing periods of road base and concrete edging. I can provide more information if you are happy with the above pricing estimate." http://www.betterthansheets.com.au - Why use sheets for curtains in your brand new home use Better Than Sheets Temporary Paper blinds instead! Re: Tar driveway 8Jun 11, 2014 9:03 pm My street is just road base not asphalt. We are hoping because of that we will only need to do the same for our driveway until we can afford to do it in something better. I thought doing the driveway asphalt/tar would work out cheaper. I might get some quotes done for both when our house has started. Thank you everyone. Re: Tar driveway 9Jun 11, 2014 9:36 pm We started with basically a road base material called churt. I spread this over the entire area and borrowed a wacker to compact it all in. Over the next 12 months of driving over it, rain, driving etc it compacted to be extremely hard. You top this up in intervals to fill in any holes that appear, and with luck you end up with a well compacted base to put whatever you choose over the top. You can coat this with a variety of metals in different colours in the meantime, that all will compact and provide a great base to improve on. Your local garden supply should if they have any knowledge be able to assist with what is needed. We did all the compaction work over time so virtually no prep was needed. Also we had brick edging not concrete edging so the edge finish was much easier. If you start now it will be great by summer, as the hotter the better to put hotmix down. Conversely our neighbour used sprayseal and it really looked like crap after about 12 months because of constant turning on it. Hunt around for layers of asphalt, because I guarantee prices will vary greatly. Settlement 1/2/12 New Shed 23/3/12 Slab poured 27/3/12 Frame complete 4/5/12 Roof complete 1/6/12 LOCKUP 29/6/12 Our new build blog http://kareenhillsownerbuild.blogspot.com/ Re: Tar driveway 10Jun 12, 2014 9:19 am Sprayseal might look alright when first put down, but as has already been mentioned by others, if you turn hard on it, i.e. when you do your 3 point turn out of the garage, it will start to break up quite quickly. Sprayseal as the name sounds, it's just 'tar' sprayed over your base driveway with some fine gravel stuck to it. Another thing mentioned so far is compacting your driveway, and that doesn't mean just a plate compactor, but when you drive on it, drive with your wheels over the full width of it. If you don't you'll end up with 'tram tracks', where the wheels are just compacting where they run, and the middle of the driveway gets no compaction at all. Talking about plate compactors, I just bought one from the big green shed the other day, $499 for a 5.5 hp one. I could hire one locally for $50 per day, but felt with a new house on 1 acre with a 90m long driveway, it would end up being cheaper than hiring one. I thought that I could use it for quite a number of things, and the convenience of not having to hunt one down when I needed to use one. Plus also when I'm finished with it, I'm sure I could still sell it for at least $150 if it's still in reasonable to good condition. Perhaps on a smaller block, if you get on really well with your neighbours, a 50:50 purchase of one could save both parties a lot of money. Owner Building at Jimboomba Woods in Logan City Qld. Blog : http://bandlnewhomebuild.blogspot.com H1 thread : viewtopic.php?f=38&t=68283 . Re: Tar driveway 11Jun 12, 2014 11:07 am Quote: but when you drive on it, drive with your wheels over the full width of it. If you don't you'll end up with 'tram tracks', where the wheels are just compacting where they run, and the middle of the driveway gets no compaction at all. I agree with bpratt. I have a 600m long quarry rubble access track. I make sure that I don't drive with the wheels in the same location all the time. I deliberately drive offset (close to one side or the other so one set of wheels is in the centre of the track. I also drive slowly. (I can't say the same for my visitors) Parts of my track have now been down 6 years without rutting, however my neighbours track (which was put down at the same time as mine) is severely rutted & now eroded, so bpratts suggestion works. I also spray the track about one a month with roundup to prevent weeds taking over. If you & your family are unlikely to be able follow the suggestions above, the concrete drive is the best solution as it is maintenance free, does not require much compaction and is not subject to rutting. Re: Tar driveway 12Jun 13, 2014 8:56 am delatite13 We started with basically a road base material called churt. I spread this over the entire area and borrowed a wacker to compact it all in. sounds similar to what are called "tailings" here which is what we used. smaller than standard small bluemetal. ours needs topping up now. Re: Tar driveway 13Jun 13, 2014 9:17 am kexkez delatite13 We started with basically a road base material called churt. I spread this over the entire area and borrowed a wacker to compact it all in. sounds similar to what are called "tailings" here which is what we used. smaller than standard small bluemetal. ours needs topping up now. As in shredded bitumen or profilings, where they shred the top surface of the road and it keeps the gravel and bitumen in with it, so when relaid, compacted and heat gets in to it, it then sets like concrete ? Owner Building at Jimboomba Woods in Logan City Qld. Blog : http://bandlnewhomebuild.blogspot.com H1 thread : viewtopic.php?f=38&t=68283 . Re: Tar driveway 14Jun 13, 2014 10:50 pm These are just a few photos of how we did the hotmix in our last house. Basically chronological, but this took place over period of about 2 months. We wanted to ensure hot weather to get the best finish. It is amazing what machinery you can fit into a small space. the first area in front of the garage was hand raked and the remainder spread by truck. All was rolled after that. This is how the surfaced looked after about 6 years. Basically not scuff marks or loose stones. This was from turning vehicles multiple times a day into the garage. I think overall it has fared pretty well. From memory we saved at least 40% over the price of a concrete drive. As said before we did some prep work prior to this happening, but our price was for all this work. If anyone has any photos from their drive being laid in hotmix, it could offer a different way of completion. As I said before we used Chert as a base. It is not crushed bitumen or tailings. The definition is here at this link http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/top ... -and-flint As said it is a crushed rock that sets like concrete when dry with enough finings in the mix. Settlement 1/2/12 New Shed 23/3/12 Slab poured 27/3/12 Frame complete 4/5/12 Roof complete 1/6/12 LOCKUP 29/6/12 Our new build blog http://kareenhillsownerbuild.blogspot.com/ To my understanding early saw cuts are to control shrinkage cracks, so doing them now would be pointless. Control joints may reduce ugly cracking during periods of soil… 3 9861 Hi all I need a guidance on how far I need to space expansion joints in the concrete driveway and its type (keyway/foam.) Contraction joints are at 3m max for a 125 slab. Thanks 0 10940 |