Browse Forums Bathrooms and Laundry Re: Walk in (open) shower 41Jan 09, 2014 3:53 pm The reason you use a grate is so you can reduce the planes or angles that the tiles need to slope on to get to the drain. A standard floor waste sits in the middle of the floor so there are 4 planes falling to the floor waste. This makes it very hard to lay tiles (particularly large format) without getting lips. It's not bad if they are standard round edge tiles but as soon as they are rectified it becomes unacceptable. To avoid this the idea is to use a floor grate either against a wall or close to it. As you can imagine this takes a plumber who knows how to set out accurately and you also need to know what shower grate you plan to use as they have different set outs. In my experience you are also better to have a bit more concrete removed from the area the the drain will sit in so you can make sure the puddle flange and grate can sit low enough. A 50mm drop in the concrete is enough to get the screed in around the grate but often isn't enough for the drain spigot and puddle flange. You need to make sure that enough depth is left for all of that or your waterproofing may compromised by an improperly installed grate. Accessible Carpentry & Cabinets accessiblecarpentry@gmail.com accessiblecarpentry.com.au https://www.facebook.com/pages/Accessible-Carpentry-Cabinets/583314911709039 Re: Walk in (open) shower 42Jan 09, 2014 10:34 pm Thanks for the answer Chippy. I've had a look at some of these channel wastes, and see they come in various sizes. What I am not sure is that the sizes listed go 800, 900, 1000, 1200, and 1500mm, does that correspond with the hob size ? If we are wanting a 900mm shower, we get the 900mm waste, or do we really get the 800mm, so that it finishes 50mm inside each end of the shower screen ? Owner Building at Jimboomba Woods in Logan City Qld. Blog : http://bandlnewhomebuild.blogspot.com H1 thread : viewtopic.php?f=38&t=68283 . Re: Walk in (open) shower 43Jan 10, 2014 7:38 am chippy The reason you use a grate is so you can reduce the planes or angles that the tiles need to slope on to get to the drain. A standard floor waste sits in the middle of the floor so there are 4 planes falling to the floor waste. This makes it very hard to lay tiles (particularly large format) without getting lips. It's not bad if they are standard round edge tiles but as soon as they are rectified it becomes unacceptable. To avoid this the idea is to use a floor grate either against a wall or close to it. As you can imagine this takes a plumber who knows how to set out accurately and you also need to know what shower grate you plan to use as they have different set outs. In my experience you are also better to have a bit more concrete removed from the area the the drain will sit in so you can make sure the puddle flange and grate can sit low enough. A 50mm drop in the concrete is enough to get the screed in around the grate but often isn't enough for the drain spigot and puddle flange. You need to make sure that enough depth is left for all of that or your waterproofing may compromised by an improperly installed grate. Totally agree! Cutting Edge Kitchens and Cabinet Making http://cuttingedgekitchens.net.au http://www.facebook.com/pages/Cutting-Edge-Kitchens/290484196676 Mobile : 0419 430 575 PH: 9452 4772 Fax :9452 4772 cuttingedgekitchens@outlook.com Re: Walk in (open) shower 44Jan 10, 2014 1:12 pm HomeAngels how did you actually seal the grout? What product did you use? Build thread: viewtopic.php?f=31&t=65085 Re: Walk in (open) shower 45Jan 11, 2014 9:16 pm EmyN HomeAngels how did you actually seal the grout? What product did you use? I got this company out to do it http://groutpro.com.au/ Custom downslope build Build thread viewtopic.php?f=31&t=61873 Blog http://www.buildingroyalmanor.blogspot.com.au Re: Walk in (open) shower 46Jan 18, 2014 1:10 pm I have just finished my en suite using just the sheet of glass 2 brackets in the floor and 2 brackets on the vertical wall. you get the screws and plugs with the brackets.You need a special tile drill bit and do not use a hammer drill. work out where the glass will go use a level and pencil to draw a vertical line up the wall where the glass will go. Most glass is 1.8m-2.0m high so brackets can go 400mm up from the floor and down from the top. on the floor my glass was 900 mm wide so i placed the brackets 250 mm from each end. Its not critical. when you screw the brackets in place put a small amount of clear silcon on the base of the bracket, just to make a water seal round the screw. in the area where the floor meets the glass( there could be a fall problem because the glass is cut square and not to the falls in your bathroom) if you get glass cut to suit it will cost $650 approx.If you just buy the panel your talking $200. Its the floor that takes the weight. Mine was about 5mm out.The brackets hold 10mm glass so i bought some 10mm aluminum channel from bunnings cut a piece the length of the bracket slid it inside the bracket and the glass sat on top of it taking the weight and keeping the glass against the wall.Then you end up with a gap under the glass. you can fill this with clear silicon. or a flexi strip which slide on the glass. If your not worried about water getting under the glass don't worry. re the silicon use a tube practicing somewhere else and smooth it with your finger and a solution watered down dishwashing liquid. I found the main problems to be the seal with the floor and the handling of the glass which is very heavy. use brackets that dont need holes in the glass. you can get them off E bay. you cannot drill holes in shower screen glass. It will shatter it. My whole reno for the Ensuite cost $5000 including all tools. Re: Walk in (open) shower 48Feb 16, 2014 1:39 pm Hi everyone, In your walk in showers do you have a small lip (20mm or so) when walking into the shower from the bathroom? We have a door-less shower in the ensuite and the builder has put in a 20mm lip at the entrance of the shower to stop water coming out into the ensuite. Is this necessary? I would much prefer a seamless entry into the shower and I am worried about stubbing my toe on the way out. We will have a glass screen above and around the nib wall but no door. http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac152/Cameronandmiranda/HouseProject/5715805F-BF27-48B0-A263-FB78EAE3A72C_zps4lredo02.jpg http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac152/Cameronandmiranda/HouseProject/91E39ED5-1626-4BC5-BB56-A43C290C947A_zpsrmay28gb.jpg Built with WBN in WA Slab down 16 Aug 2013, Handover 16 April 2014, Moved in 2 June 2014 Our house build thread Re: Walk in (open) shower 49Feb 16, 2014 7:07 pm I think a lip is a good idea personally. My parents don't have one and it's amazing how far the water can snake into the bathroom (the levels seem to be right, it's just the volume of water pushes itself out on the floor) and then the bathroom floor is wet and cold every night. It's horrible! Build thread: viewtopic.php?f=31&t=65085 Re: Walk in (open) shower 50Feb 16, 2014 8:52 pm We don't have a lip, but do have a grate against the drainage wall. Distance from grate to end of glass is 1m. Has never gone anywhere near even half way to the end of the glass (not that I'm concerned, as we have a grate the full length of the bathroom under the floating vanity). Re: Walk in (open) shower 51Feb 17, 2014 10:22 am You shouldn't need a lip but you do have to have a decent fall to make the water disperse quickly. We always tried to achieve a 15 to 20mm fall in the shower for this reason. The bigger the tiles used the harder this becomes unless you have a large shower and use a drainage channel rather than the older style central round grate. See chippys comments above. Stewie Re: Walk in (open) shower 52Oct 28, 2014 10:06 am Re: Walk in (open) shower 53Nov 03, 2014 12:00 am gonecountry I got a PM recently about finished pictures of my shower....thought I would share with you all. http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae226/gone-country/IMG_0433.jpg http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae226/gone-country/IMG_0430.jpg Beautiful gonecountry!!!!! --- Re: Walk in (open) shower 54Nov 05, 2014 9:56 am Hi Walk in showers are a very good idea and they are not that expensive. A 10mm toughened safety glass at a length of 1200mm W x 1950mm H being around $500. You could install it yourself, but installation is $200. You just have to make sure you get the tiling right so the flow of water runs back into a shower grate. cheers Craig Re: Walk in (open) shower 55Nov 05, 2014 10:45 am I want these in my new build, but I was told it is a good idea to have pan under the tiles as water can get thru(2nd story). also insurance companies are not insuring houses if they are not done in this way. Is this true or total baloney! mixo Re: Walk in (open) shower 56Nov 05, 2014 12:01 pm Sounds like bulldust to me. Pan ??? You definitely need a waterproof membrane in your upstairs bathroom area though for it to comply with regs. Maybe this is what you are talking about or whether this is what the other person means? Stewie Re: Walk in (open) shower 57Nov 05, 2014 12:03 pm Mate I doubt very much if that is true, shower bases really are a thing of the past now. If you use a good water proofer you will get a certificate for his work. Whether or not it 2nd story or ground floor, you dont want it to leak. cheers Craig Re: Walk in (open) shower 58Nov 05, 2014 2:04 pm I just shared this in another bathroom thread but forgot this one existed! Here's our walkin open shower newly tiled http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o265/mryrse/onlot234/BB6E52A0-8F8D-4AEA-99E3-72C2E3929A0F.jpg http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o265/mryrse/onlot234/1ED2595A-2170-4AD9-99CD-1D636A42B056.jpg --- Re: Walk in (open) shower 59Nov 14, 2014 7:33 pm I love our walk in shower. But I have discovered a downside... If you forget to close the ensuite door you could find the dog in there with you Custom downslope build Build thread viewtopic.php?f=31&t=61873 Blog http://www.buildingroyalmanor.blogspot.com.au Re: Walk in (open) shower 60Nov 15, 2014 6:40 am LOL @ Pan for floor, is it still 1970 ? The flexible membrane is the best and most reliable waterproofing around. Pans are cheap and easy for the builder to install themselves. This bathroom is 2nd story and we just used the flexible membrane. http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/Antekindustries/DarkTiles2_zps746f9b39.jpg Electrical just got back to me and said the most they can provide is a single power point on the Bedroom 1 side of that wall. After handover, your towel rail installer… 2 3837 Do you really want to accommodate the window? What is on the outside of the window? Do you want to be able to see your towels from outside? I would blank the window from… 2 6688 Cupcake.girl This really depends on your local council. Each one has different definitions and ways to calculate contributions. This is called a contribution… 1 3580 |