Browse Forums Landscape & Garden Design 1 Apr 14, 2017 11:08 pm Hey peeps. I'm planting Murraya paniculata along our front fence of 27m for privacy reasons to approximately 1.6m high and would like them to grow as FAST as possible. So I have some questions 1- How deep out from the fence should I leave for the hedge? In other words what's the minimum depth this plant need at that height while still being thick and bushy? Obviously I don't want to take too much space from our front yard 2- Should I stick to the general "multiply the height of the hedges by .3" for my spacing which gives me roughly 50cm between the plants or can I go as close as 30mm to help accelerate the growth by not having to trim as often? 3- I'm about to build my first veggie patch and have decided to go with an above ground wicking bed. Can I use the same principle of the "no-dig" lasagne approach for the trench of hedges? I.e layers of cardboard, horse manure, straw, scraps and lots of red wigglers etc? I have a worm farm. Or should I till with a hoe as to fu's notorious "soil prep" instructions and mix in some bedding and manure? 4- What's the best time to plant? 5- How is trimming usually done from the outside of the fence? Do I leave some gap between the hedge and fence for me to walk along and trim? Or do I let the hedge to grow through the fence and then trim from outside the fence? The fence is a little too high for me to reach over it and trim Your input is greatly appreciated! P. S hoping master fu can join us in the discussion Re: Murraya hedging questions 2Apr 30, 2017 11:32 pm 1. I have some in beds just 30cm deep from the fence and I don't look at the fence. 2. Drop the plants in a pace a part, that will be about a metre. Don't fluff about with a tape measure for this. 3. Organic material is not permanent. So don't go to extra ordinary amounts of work to achieve something that makes you feel good, but achieves little long term. Focus on permanent soil improvement, using zeolite, course sands, and a simple high grade compost. Avoid fresh manures when planting. We know from research that most of it will end up elsewhere and the plant won't get much. If you have clay, work out which one because Gypsum is not reactive to most of Australia's clays but the most commonly used. Go figure. Many clays need Dolomite of lime instead. Gypsum will also take around 4 years to have an effect on the soil's structure when used on the correct clay. http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/stories/s1676965.htm 4. Best time to plant is now because it's not as good as last year but better than next October. The whole nursery and landscape industry doesn't stop in less ideal conditions, nor should you. Get planting. They will go yellow in the cold, don't spend money on them. Let them have a cry about the conditions and they'll green up when the soil warms up (Not the air). Feed the soil only with composted organic material, better still mulch what you clip and throw straight under them fresh. If minerals are applied, only Rock Dust/Minerals or the new Powerfeed Troforté sold at the big shed every goes to. Clip them even when small. Let them grow and clip back a little. The more you clip, the better the hedge. Personally, considering your layout (study/work desks in bedrooms), I don't think you have any other option but to leave NW windows and make them as big as possible e.g.… 7 10480 We had this happen to us last year and got charged a variation. Try and give away as much as you can that is usable to charity otherwise if you are in Sydney I have a… 1 4506 Not sure what council area you are in. Some LGA's allow zero lot retaining walls. This usually occurs in greenfield developments but not often in established areas. You… 1 8253 |