Browse Forums Landscape & Garden Design 1 Nov 20, 2011 10:34 pm Hi all, I am currently trying to plan out my garden irrigation setup. It's important I get this right now because paths are to be installed and my supply lines will run underneath the concrete. This scenario cannot be avoided so I wan to get it right. I plan on running a system capable of 6 zones due to small difference between 4 and 6 zone controllers, but initially only 4 will be used. Supply will come from rear of house next to tank. 2 zones will run to the front of the house. Each run will be in rigid PVC to front then to (NetaFilm) drip line. Both drip lines under mulch in garden bed, but above surface. Question 1: if at the front I have two separate small planter boxes (600mm max height), is it a problem with a single supply line rising up to each planter separately, ie. will the second in line have pressure problems? At the rear there will 3 zones. One to a garden bed, one to planter and one sub surface. I plan drippers for all. I am aware with sub surface I will need a tech filter and the system will require all the back flow prevention as it will not rely solely on tank water. Question 2: Would a single disc filter be adequate for the system if installed prior to the solenoid manifold, or do I need a disc filter on each line? Obviously I need the tech filter for the sub surface, could this also be place before the manifold or only on sub surface line? Same goes for fertliser input into system? Question 3: Finally, I was looking at solenoids: Hunter or Irritol? Regards, D. Re: Garden Irrigation Questions 2Nov 21, 2011 8:53 pm Tech filter won't be needed and you don't want to go there for what else needs to be attached to the system and be maintained by a certified plumber. $500 plus bits of gear. You don't want that herbicide leaching into your drinking water Just use the disc filter. It will be fine with your set up provided you don't go under lawn with subsurface. Under the drive and concrete paths drop class 12 under paths and class 18 under the drive at 400mm deep. Alternatively you could use say a couple of 25mm class 12 and feed poly pipe through it. Much easier and less parts Some guys use storm water pipe at 400mm deep and feed the poly through. Just tape the ends of the pipe till you use it so rocks and sand/dirt don't get in. Drippers are not the flashest means to water and get healthy plants. They are near impossible to achieve even water distribution as well. Subsurface will achieve even water distribution. Garden beds, planter should be 13mm Netafim Techline AS 250mm apart or there abouts. Lawn areas should be MP rotators or Toro Precision nozzles on pop ups. Very efficient with large droplets not blown by wind and able to work on low pressure systems. Each line will need to (or be best advised) have a 300mm riser with a vacuum breaker valve on it at the highest point of each line as good insurance. Its a cheap bit of gear for peace of mind in the long term. Make sure at the termination of each line you have a brown flush valve. Keeps it all squeaky clean. Never a good idea to use tank water to feed a garden. You'll be greatly underestimating what the water needs of a garden are. Tanks are put to far better use plumbed into homes for use with laundry and toilets. Rainfall will not replenish the tanks at rates that make it a worth while cost. The water use will still be offset by the tanks but in a far more practical manner. Do you guys over East think for a second that there's loads of water around. The return of ElNino will have you crying into your veggie garden saying, "Why I no listen to Fu?" ...and then try to catch your tears to water the garden with. Fertiliser input won't be needed. As long as you care for your lawn area and garden the Organic way, you will have the best and easiest care lawn going. It is a tempting thing fertigation but steer clear. Don't give in to the lazy way. It will bite you back when the typical lawn myths and problems haunt you. Make sure you read the turf stickies and apply the same soil prep for the beds too Here is a great guide for irrigation standards (11mb pdf) http://www.irrigation.org.au/assets/pag ... ations.pdf Valves: Hunter are fantastic bits of gear. Go jar top only. You'll thank me when you come to have to fix something. Irritrol jart tops are what I use a fair bit because they are interchangeable with several other types out there. So when you are looking for spares its easy to fix without going online and ordering. Filter: One at the head and also a pressure regulator/reducer valve. Also at the very head of the system, use a 25mm nylon ball valve. It will cost a bit more but again, come the day things need to be shut off and fixed, you won't find a rusted blob in the ground and a big headache Re: Garden Irrigation Questions 3Nov 22, 2011 6:47 am Thanks for the detailed response Fu. I've been reading many of your posts and plan to use your soil prep techniques. Also, the link you provided is the best resource I've see yet on setting up irrigation systems. For anyone else interested in the topic, that PDF is a good one to read. Provided that I am happy to pay the costs of the RPZ and backflow etc required of subsurface irrigation, would it be more efficient than rotators? In regards to the fertigation, I had planned on bio fertilisers in this setup rather than chemical fertilisers. The 400mm depth for covering the PVC is going to be the difficult part. Seems I've got a bit more work to do! Thanks again, D. Garden Irrigation Questions 4Nov 22, 2011 10:03 am Yes sub is more efficient though It's only slightly better. MPs are very effective and far more practical than subsurface in lawn applications. Looking back on jobs I've done in the past with subsurface, now days I'd have done them using MPs. I'd say go with these water efficient pop ups. The ongoing costs and set up times and costs just don't justify it really. Gardens are vastly different. This is something shared by many water efficiency experts. MPs have an almost comparable efficiency in lawn applications. If you want to add in anything a water pressure gauge will be very handy and let you know of leaks in the system. Not expensive at all. Garden Irrigation Questions 5Nov 22, 2011 10:07 am Go less than 400 under drives and you might risk cracking. Might. You may also risk cracked or leaking irrigation under a drive. So go 400 and feed pipes through a primary pipe. No hassles now or in the future. Feeding poly through will be fine... Unless she objects (Poly, that is) Hi all I am looking to run a water line under my concrete footpath which is directly next to my home, was seeing if this is possible without cutting the entire section… 0 20191 Hi Brainstrust, I had a go at creating my own irrigation plan, keen to get some feedback. It will be run from one 750-800W pump, off 2* 5000L rain tanks. Each zone… 0 22774 Personally, considering your layout (study/work desks in bedrooms), I don't think you have any other option but to leave NW windows and make them as big as possible e.g.… 7 10483 |