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Greetings all, seemed about time that our focus has now shifted from our new home to starting to worry about our landscape or lack there of.
This thread will detail much of what we do and agonize over whilst taking four black thumbs and trying to turn them green.
Both myself and my lovely fiancee don't have what you'd call a good track record with maintaining or in my case keeping anything alive at all.
So this is it, Belial's Backyard or how we learned to stop worrying and love the garden
A quick recap of what we've done so far stolen from our build thread.
So for those who are just joining us, i'll set the scene, once upon a time when signing over our lives/souls/money our lot looked like this
IMG_2721 by
Belial669, on Flickr
But due to the development works and the need to raise the land, the front looked like this
IMG_2722 by
Belial669, on Flickr
And by the time they were done excavating it looked like this
IMG_2641 by
Belial669, on Flickr
And this gives you an idea of how far they went down, the top of the dirt on the left is the finished ground level.
20100223-IMG_3376 by
Belial669, on Flickr
And lowe it came to pass that it was filled with compacted clay
20100319-IMG_3819 by
Belial669, on Flickr
And a whole 5cm or so of top soil, just enough for the capeweed to take hold in
20100516-IMG_4333 by
Belial669, on Flickr
Thus by the time our build was completed all we were left with is clay and building rubble (the red lines were to indicate the location of things that perhaps shouldn't have crossed said lines but i digress *cough* bricks/rubble/scaffold *cough*)
20110104-IMG_0291 by
Belial669, on Flickr
As such we turned to the teaching of the great and wonderful wizard of 'fu', and whilst we couldn't source a certified organic compost nearby and BAAG was significantly out of our price range for the same amount of material due to the delivery cost, we sourced 12m3 of mushroom compost and 12m3 of organic soil mix from a local supplier, spread across two loads of each. Hence we have 6m3 of each in this photo. Whilst we tried to have it delivered to the rear of the property, it wasn't to be with the truck nearly getting bogged.
IMG_0362 by
Belial669, on Flickr
So with Plan A of getting it delivered to the back yard out of the equation, it moved to Plan B. Which involved my most recent purchase
IMG_0364 by
Belial669, on Flickr
And a lot of trips back and forth.
The first nights effort after work
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Belial669, on Flickr
20110119-IMG_0371 by
Belial669, on Flickr
After the third night and some help from a good mate who like me was in need of some exercise.
20110119-IMG_0403 by
Belial669, on Flickr
20110120-IMG_0409 by
Belial669, on Flickr
The next delivery brought crushed rock for the wall, and gypsum under the tarp to go down (err maybe i should make that smaller so fu doesn't see it
)
20110122-IMG_0422 by
Belial669, on Flickr
And so with a weekend put aside for soil prep we hired the vermeer, and i'd heartily recommend anyone else considering doing the same job to do it as well.
The ripping tynes made good work of the clay and actually made it possible for the rotary hoe to get into it.
IMG_0418 by
Belial669, on Flickr
The Rotary hoe attachment - worth its weight in gold for mixing our existing clay and new soil mix
20110122-IMG_0414 by
Belial669, on Flickr
And the 4 in 1 bucket, excellent for moving and distributing the soil around, spreading, compacting, digging and it was only about $50 extra over the standard bucket which didn't have the opening jaws and was half the size.
20110122-IMG_0420 by
Belial669, on Flickr
After running the ripping tynes through the backyard, and giving it the once over with the rotary hoe. This was the pile of building waste that came up out of clay.
And this was after we complained and had them do a further site clean.
20110123-IMG_0426 by
Belial669, on Flickr
As it stands there is still more where the deck is going, it was one of the roof tile graveyards, but the amount of plumbing there made it not appealing to rip, and as there will eventually be a deck over it, its not of any real consequence.
Unfortunately the camera didn't really make it out during the work, I was too busy having fun, uh i mean seriously driving the loader to spread the soil and mulch whilst my fiancee, dad and a mate spread through the zeolite, bactivate, bactivate +, gypsum, saturaid and seamungus. With the whole lot then rotary hoed to mix.
The after shot
20110123-IMG_0430 by
Belial669, on Flickr
Only part of the dead side was done, as we're looking at rocks/paving etc for the majority of it but perhaps some ferns down the end.
20110123-IMG_0433 by
Belial669, on Flickr
And across the back, can you tell where the deck is going?
20110123-IMG_0436 by
Belial669, on Flickr
And i'm told there has to be one action shot of me and the loader, this time with the soil spreader attached which tbh wasn't that much use.
And considering the day was in the 30's yes that is a hat with neck protection.
Reports of cries such as "There goes Lawrence of Sandhurst" are greatly exaggerated
20110123-IMG_0452 by
Belial669, on Flickr
And to re-use a photo, we also did out the front
20110201-IMG_0525 by
Belial669, on Flickr
So yeah pretty much that was our soil preparation, not sure how much is relevant or for that matter apocryphal but hey its what we've done and well none a month or so on the weeds love it
The wall post
So we decided we needed a retaining wall out the front as the slope just wasn't going to cut it.
However we also knew that the water pipes run directly under where the wall was to go, which put us off the traditional timber, due to the location of the pipes running at an angle, digging post holes around them didn't really appeal, so this left us with bricks or blocks.
So long story short, we settled on Austral Tasman/Heron Blocks, mainly as they are DIYable, no need for mortar. Able to be carried by one person, unlike the solid vertica blocks and came in a colour we liked at a price we could afford.
So to start at the beginning, we took dimensions of the area and the blocks and I designed it in cad to work out how many blocks, corners and capping stones that we'd need to order.
With that completed, the blocks ordered and delivered it was time to get underway.
So this is pretty much what we started off with. (and for those playing at home we also had a letterbox constructed in the intervening period) .
20110115-IMG_0344 by
Belial669, on Flickr
The foremost line in this photo marks the boundary between our property and the estate common property, so we technically don't have a huge amount of area to play with which is ours to do as we please.
20110115-IMG_0349 by
Belial669, on Flickr
And the aforementioned blocks, delivered straight into the garage for easy secure storage.
20110118-IMG_0360 by
Belial669, on Flickr
The excavation begins, we knew we had to go down to accomdate the base for the blocks, as well as for the grass area we intend between the wall and path, so whilst we had the vermeer loader for soil prep, we also used it to clear what we could of the clay. With the following result.
20110122-IMG_0421 by
Belial669, on Flickr
More digging, you can see the line of red scoria surrounding the water pipes, as there was well SFA surrounding the pipes we added more to make it easier to find in future.
20110123-IMG_0429 by
Belial669, on Flickr
Test fitting the final height with the aid of some bricks to act in place of our base.
20110125-IMG_0456 by
Belial669, on Flickr
Satisfied with that, time to get it ready for the wall base, usually you would only dig a trench wide enough for the base, however as we needed to add some fertile soil as we're on about 1m deep clay there, we also excavated further forward.
20110125-IMG_0466 by
Belial669, on Flickr
As such we needed to retain the base rock whilst being compacted.
20110125-IMG_0467 by
Belial669, on Flickr
Crushed rock
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Belial669, on Flickr
+
4 hr hire from the big green shed for approx $35 or so, even though we used it for 30 mins
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Belial669, on Flickr
=
A mostly complete compacted base
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Belial669, on Flickr
We'll skip through the rest of the days frustration of trying to get the first course straight and level and here is the result.
20110126-IMG_0474 by
Belial669, on Flickr
The second course has started, but wait something doesn't quite look right about that corner......
20110127-IMG_0476 by
Belial669, on Flickr
Thats because as previously discussed the top protrusions that stick up from the blocks, don't quite work when you come to a corner.
Not a great shot, but down in the darkness where the back of the solid block and the end of the block coming in from the RHS meet, both hit the protrusion of the block below.
20110127-IMG_0477 by
Belial669, on Flickr
And a slightly different angle showing how it causes the solid block to stick out
20110127-IMG_0480 by
Belial669, on Flickr
Its a little more obvious in this one, then solid brick isn't flush and the first brick in isn't level
20110127-IMG_0483 by
Belial669, on Flickr
And this is how we fix it, angle grinder + masonary grinding disk (the cutting disc didn't quite get in there at the right angle and wasn't deep enough to go through in one cut).
Now the problem causing protrusion is gone
20110127-IMG_0488 by
Belial669, on Flickr
And now the corner works
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Belial669, on Flickr
Also needed to do a similar thing at our stairs
20110127-IMG_0484 by
Belial669, on Flickr
More progress, and the wall filling up with 20mm scoria we already had some and it ticked the boxes for the filling
20110128-IMG_0490 by
Belial669, on Flickr
Front of the stairs, the rear step has 4 blocks across underneath to allow the top 3 to be in line with the first step which locking in to those below, and provides stability for the blocks on the sides.
20110128-IMG_0491 by
Belial669, on Flickr
The capping fitted, we used liquid nails landscape (3 tubes iirc to do the whole lot), to adhere all the caps down as well as the stairs.
20110131-IMG_0512 by
Belial669, on Flickr
In a couple of spots the levels and cuts weren't quite as good as they could be
so the occasional weight was neccisary to hold the caps level whilst they dried, as they will be backfilled the currently hanging sections causing it not to be straight at rest will be supported anyway.
20110131-IMG_0514 by
Belial669, on Flickr
And the other end, we achieved the angle by cutting of the rear edge pieces on the blocks, that's it for now until our neighbours get their landscape underway and we know where the soil levels are going to end up at the boundary.
20110131-IMG_0515 by
Belial669, on Flickr
A small amount of scoria to build up the level for the ag drain to flow
20110131-IMG_0520 by
Belial669, on Flickr
And the other end, I'd previously dug through a line connected to a silt pit from the other ag drains that were put in by the builder to prevent moisture build up at the front of the slab.
20110131-IMG_0521 by
Belial669, on Flickr
More ag pipe and you can see the overhanging capping block.
20110131-IMG_0523 by
Belial669, on Flickr
Back filled with scoria over the ag drain, but this was how it fared taken the morning after we received that 130mm downpour.
20110205-DSC01421 by
Belial669, on Flickr
Update for those who've previously seen the rest in our build thread.
Once we backfilled with scoria and layed down the weedmat, pegged in the corners to try to minimise the amount of soil filtering down to the ag pipe ,whilst still allowing water through.
20110215-IMG_0572 by
Belial669, on Flickr
And the other side, if we were to do it again we'd probably finish the scoria layer further down the wall, maybe 5cm or so as it leaves only very shallow soil and hence limits what can be planted.
20110215-IMG_0576 by
Belial669, on Flickr
After we covered it with soil
20110215-IMG_0580 by
Belial669, on Flickr
And that pretty much completes the wall section.
So in the time since finishing the wall, we haven't been completely idle we've planted, mulched and move further with the garden construction, though the camera hasn't made too many appearances during so you just get to see it done to the current stage.
Outside our bedroom window across the front we've planted 5 kangaroo paw (3 red / 2 yellow).
20110314-IMG_0607 by
Belial669, on Flickr
We've also planted out the garden bed at the top of the retaining wall.
20110314-IMG_0591 by
Belial669, on Flickr
We've lined the wall with festuca glauca (some sort of blue fescue) grass which should with a little help grow together over time.
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Belial669, on Flickr
As well as 4 roses, all red flowering ones (can't quite remember what my better half chose
)
20110314-IMG_0595 by
Belial669, on Flickr
As part of the ongoing construction, over the weekend we constructed what will be a raised garden bed containing our yet to be decided upon feature tree.
20110314-IMG_0593 by
Belial669, on Flickr
As for whats next, more additions including more redgum edging in the same 75mm thick boards are next on the to do list.
Additionally if we can find some pavers that match the wall we'll be putting in stepping stone across to the letter box and surrounding them in stones.
In front of the letterbox will be grass, with a feature tree most likely to be a japanese maple of some description at this stage to go in the raised bed.
Until last weekend we had planned on not having the raised bed and surrounding the feature tree with grass instead, though after looking at it the front of the raised bed effectively follows the front of our land, and we have approx 2-4m (it varies) area in front of our land which is the estate common property which will all be grass, so we figured we'd look at layers rather than just lawn.
Also just to part with a question is 65mm ag pipe fine for looping under our feature tree so we can water directly to the lower roots a good idea or a bad idea????
Just wanted to say that I've loved following your progress and looking through the entire gallery of photos you've posted in the various threads Belial
It's really great to see a project right from the very (bare) beginnings to the lovely green tapestry it's becoming.
Keep up the good work - both in the garden and in your posts!!
I don't know enough about irrigation using pipes etc as yet to answer your question (there's not been much need for them where I'm from in Scotland!), but how will you flush the ag pipe through in event of a blockage or replace it if it's under the roots of the tree? I would think the tree would only need the additional water whilst establishing and heavy mulching of the bed around the tree would help to keep the water in the soil. If you're planting an Aussie native, then it might not need any additional water once established at all. Depending on what it is of course - some rainforest trees may need additional water once established.
Our ornamental cherry is in a very free draining raised area to the side of the drive and needs no supplemental watering, but I don't know how long it's been there as it was planted by the previous owners.
I've heard some good things about reservoir irrigation systems when watering small areas, like garden beds. It's like an extension to the plastic bottle method, whereby the reservoirs are buried at the correct depth for the type of plants being irrigated (say, 60cm for a tree and about 60cm away from the trunk and are buried before the tree is put in place) and then they provide water directly where needed. This means less water is used, you're less likely to over water a plant that is a bit sensitive to having wet roots and you can fill the reservoirs by hand.
Though, that is the extent of my very poor knowledge on the subject!!
Good Job Belial...loving the progress pictures.
+1 - you must be very happy with your work so far - well done
I love Japanese Maple - that will look pretty and I don't think they grow too big. Kangaroo Paws are great - love them too!
Oh - and welcome to the "Green Thumb" club!!
Thanks Mclaren, might get some pics up of the latest work tonight which is the beginnings of our side gate now that we
finally have a side fence.
Oh how we enjoyed digging 3 700mm holes through roller compacted clay, with a post hole shovel.
Still could be worse, hopefully we'll get the posts in tonight.
Next job now that we finally have a fence is to get a gate sorted so we can actually have some level of security in our backyard rather than people just being able to wander in.
So first up digging post holes, the post hole shovel got us there in the end just quite a bit of effort to get down 700mm through the compacted clay, took about 2 1/2 hours to get all 3 complete.
20110320-IMG_0630 by
Belial669, on Flickr
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Belial669, on Flickr
We settled on three posts rather than joining directly to the fence, the final gates will either be a wide single or two slim doubles, which we're still working out.
As such we'd prefer not to have the wait potentially hanging off the centre of the fence.
Posts cut to length with caps cut.
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Belial669, on Flickr
As we've used cypress posts to match those used by our fencer we also took his advice to seal the underground sections of the posts to try to stave off rot for longer.
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Belial669, on Flickr
And just a couple of pics of the posts in, was too busy with the level and the rapid set to get any action shots.
That and it may have been getting dark by the time we were done
20110322-IMG_0689 by
Belial669, on Flickr
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Belial669, on Flickr
We'll probably end up with some sort of paling to fill across to the house as we decided to stay well away from the termite treatment at the base of the wall.
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Belial669, on Flickr
Looking great.. gardening is hard work but you are doing so many right things from the start its looking great - cannot wait to see your finished product...
Looking great.. gardening is hard work but you are doing so many right things from the start its looking great - cannot wait to see your finished product...
Thanks cass, we've stalled a bit in the last few days, spent the weekend finalising the gate design, getting the steel and cutting.
However unfortunately found that my skill in the welding dept is clearly lacking, my father has come to our rescue with the donation of his skills but his time is very limited at the moment so in the mean time, its a good thing i have a fair chunk of scrap to destroy in my path to enlightenment.
That or take the monetary plunge on a mig which should do the job a whole lot easier. 2mm rods on 1.6mm steel is doing my head in.
So we haven't been completely idle over the weekend (though it would have been nice to be
)
As I may have previously mentioned we were looking at a Japanese Maple for our front feature tree to go in the redgum box.
So bright and early saturday morning we headed up to ferny creek to Connifer gardens nursery, they have the largest collection of japanese maples i've seen anywhere
and well we have been looking
.
So we ended up with a Acer Palmatum 'Osakazuki'
20110402-IMG_0699 by
Belial669, on Flickr
Chosen for a number of reasons, most notably it changes from greens through to vibrant red before it looses its leaves in autumn, so we should be seeing that soon.
Already the top has started to change.
So newly armed with a tree, mulch
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Belial669, on Flickr
And some more 'organic' soil - which for the purposes of this is not the venerated 'certified' kind, but is the kind we can actually get delivered without the delivery exceeding the cost of the soil.
20110402-IMG_0695 by
Belial669, on Flickr
Look ma I dug a hole
but seriously, the hole isn't too large at that stage as it had been backfilled over the ag pipe, we've added it after looking at a few sources as a better method of getting water to the root system as well as it should attract the roots down.
20110402-IMG_0701 by
Belial669, on Flickr
The tree in, no progress shots in between as it was such a pita to get out of the pot.
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Belial669, on Flickr
The rest of the soil spread into the box and leveled. We're not sure if we'll add border plants but we've added the soil so we can.
20110402-IMG_0706 by
Belial669, on Flickr
The tree mulch in the box, unfortunately this time it was a bit older and not quite so fresh as the last, still beats black chipbark.
20110402-IMG_0709 by
Belial669, on Flickr
And just a final shot in its splendor
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Belial669, on Flickr
We're thinking about staking it higher up, as the wind has been blowing the top around quite worringly, and maybe we can get it to go a bit straighter.
More updates will follow as the projects get completed, gates are underway as is the espalier orange tree.
Bugger, just typed a post and deleted it
Oh well.
I made this rubbish rendition that might explain things a bit better
The tree needs to be able to fall around a bit. Not too much but enough for the trunk to be able to thicken up and hold its own weight. The staking like that is a safety net of sorts.
You will be lowering its centre of gravity and the whole thing will look better and be stronger. Might look a little odd just now but will look sensational in years to come
Staking a tree is not a very advisable practice. One of this countries best arborists advises very much against staking. Unfortunately the growing style of nurseries doesn't lend it self to that. They grow to fit into garden centres with all them against each other and to be tall and impressive. Not strong.
If you stake as planned, the tree will have a poor root system, be prone to problems, need more water, be prone to damage and falling over in time to come.
By cutting as shown the tree will grow out a little wider and that is a characteristic that will look sensational on that specimen and in the yard. It will still grow higher over the years, no fear there. Should give it its best chance
Looks great! Beautiful colours - looks like it's meant to be there.
Thanks Fu for your tips - most educational!!
Wow, it's looking so good!!
will be such a pretty tree! all the hard work is certainly paying off
Anyone in Perth or Gero attempting to grow one of these is kidding themselves.
ours doesn't look too happy even down here. We bought the same one I think. Will see how it goes after this winter.
I have an mature acer in full sun too, 40 degrees and wind, Fail....
We nearly got through this year but our one hot windy day cooked it. Probably 30% golden crunchy leaves.